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Droid Tadao board OLED screen replacement?

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    Droid Tadao board OLED screen replacement?

    Picked up a droid. Shoots fine but it is in auto response mode. Screen is dead. What is the specific part name for a replacement oled screen? And how feasible is swapping it out?

    #2
    I recently got a clone with dead oled. Recently looked into it, and from my google fu. There is nothing really. You can buy a whole new RX oled board (both boards) for 120 from MacDev. But the screen board sub assembly I cant find. There used to be a Todao Led module you put in in place of the oled screen, qnd if Todao flashed the board firmware it would work as an led board. I dont think thats an option anymore, and from what Ive read. The board has to be factory flashed initially.


    Maybe you can use the oleds that Curt uses for Morlocks? If I can figure the pin out out, I could likely solder something.
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

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      #3
      Update: It is an RiTdisplay. From the vendors that have websites I can navigate, this appears to be an off the shelf display. Once I identify what it is I should be able to just purchase and plug and play. It'd be easier to find if I knew how many pixels by how many pixels the screen is, but even with a loupe I can't count them. There do appear to be 7 wire paths on the left and right side, so it might just be 14 pixels high.

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        #4
        Update: Hitting a bit of a wall with RiT display. The problem is that most pages with RiT displays are in another language. I also cannot find any correspondence between the numbers that are actually written on the parts of the screen and the model numbers for Rit Displays. But, for anyone who is interested, I have found the following strings of numbers on the components of the screen:

        13702008214AR
        10155311613429
        SSD 1300T
        01342909H A13

        But I figure any oled screen will work so long as it meets the specs. The screen is 1.025" wide and .36" high. Thankfully these things are measured in inches.

        This appears to be a 1" screen, as most screens are described by their width. I believe it is a 128x32. 128 seems to be standard for 1 inch screens, and I'm betting it's the cheaper 32 pixels in height.

        I could just buy a 1" 128x32 screen except for one problem. The RitDisplay has a 31 pin ribbon connector, while other oled screens from other manufacturers come with a 30 pin ribbon. I have counted the pins several times on the tadao and can confirm it is 31 pins, not 30.

        edit: As usual, google becomes a lot more useful once I post in a forum, in what I'm sure is just a frightening coincidence.

        I have located a 31 pin connector.

        https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832...apt=4itemAdapt

        I can't make heads or tails of the other measurements of it, but that is a candidate.

        I have also learned that SSD 1300T is the name of the "controller" for the screen. So I can narrow things down.

        edit: searching for 1300T has been fruitful. I found a random comment on github.

        https://github.com/DirtyEngineer/Tad...-Documentation

        Quoting from there: "Documentation pertaining to the Ritek 96x16 OLED display with the Solomon Systech SSD0300/SSD1300 controller used in Tadao and derivative paintball boards"

        There is no other information there. But it looks like the screen has been identified.

        edit: No, that appears to be for the vertical screens for cockers and the like. I'm pretty sure it's a 1 inch 128x32 ssd1300 screen. I believe the T just stands for Tadao, might be wrong.

        Here is a screen that is right in everything but the dimensions and probably pixels


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          #5
          Okay, we're moving along in the investigation.

          First, for anyone looking at this thread in the future, just buy a new board or a used board from a different manufacturer. I just can't let this go and I got a new soldering iron I need to use.

          The most important parts of an OLED screen are the controller and interface. The controller is an SSD 1300T controller made by Solomon Systech. It is apparently no longer manufactured but I have found a link to one for sale.



          Note that the pixels are wrong on this and the size is wrong. I also don't know what the interface is for that. But I'm rolling the dice and ordering a few.

          The newer controller which is very available is the 1306. It is unknown to me if it will work. The interface for the droid tadao board is SPI. The pixels are 96x16, not 128x32.

          This is a discussion forum dedicated to the various custom autococker paintball markers which have been built and modified over the years.


          I'll update the thread once I receive the screens and either successfully install one or fry the board.

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            #6
            Here is the post-mortem:

            I have no idea if the screens I got would have worked. I made a few errors and I doubt I can mount the screens to the board. I attempted to, and got several of the pins connected, but in the end I believe I permanently screwed up the connection. The screen I half attached did not work.

            My first mistake was in how I removed the dead original screen. I pulled it right off. I should have desoldered it instead. The 31 pins attached to solder pads, and I pulled one pad straight off.

            I believe I made a mistake when removing the old solder pads with a solder wick. I don't know exactly what I screwed up, but I didn't get them all cleaned off.

            I then attempted to put new pads onto the "channels" that the solder appeared to be in. 31 channels. I used flux, followed some youtube videos (which made everything look super easy), and I managed to put solder pads on half of the channels. But, for some reason, on the right half, the solder wand seemed to just erase the channels. Technically only 8 pins or so were necessary. So I tried to solder the screen to the pads, using youtube as guidance. I don't know why, as I'm an amateur solderer, but the pads really didn't stick to the "channels" that were on the screen. I think I only got like 3 of them connected. And I destroyed even more channels on the board as I was doing this.

            Maybe it would've worked. Maybe it wouldn't have. We'll sadly never know through me.


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