Dye DM10 Trigger Issue

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’m working on a Dye DM10 that really wants to claim someone’s eye. Upon air up it immediately shoots, so if anything is in the breach, it fires.

According to the instructions the issue would be that the trigger is activating the switch, so it needs to be adjusted. I have tried, but no success. Is the metal piece on the switch suppose to be loose or rigid? Wondering if it’s broken (loose) and acting the trigger switch?

Photo for reference:

[dano_____]

There are a couple of things you can check. You would hear the solenoid click of you have no air when it is turned on. If it isn't clicking then your problem isn't the switch. You can also disconnect the solenoid and air it up. If it fires with the noid disconnected it isn't the board.

Does it fire as it should and up to velocity without drop off?

It could be that your LPR is slow to react and the bolt is receiving air before the lpr catches up causing it to fire. You may want to lube and/or rebuild it.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Only fires when you turn the board on and only once and refused to do anything else.

[dano_____]

See if it fires with the solenoid disconnected?

[latches109]

Check the wires are not pinched and making contact with the frame.
Check for full battery

Yes 2D-FL switches are semi-loose if you pull the lever outwards. Depress the little switch at the base of the switch you should hear it click. If it does, it's good.

The solenoid pin should register ~5V on fire.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Check the wires and they are fine. Pulled the lower wires (solenoid?!) and air it up and still shoots a single shot. Made sure there is no trigger pressure on the switch.

Don’t seem to get the usual solenoid click noises I get from most markers but solenoid does click when in turn the marker on without a tank.

I’ll grab a brand new battery tomorrow.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Curious about trigger adjustment as well, as the manual kind of sucks. There are two adjustable screws
on the top of the trigger and two on the trigger frame. What does adjusting the two on the frame do?

[Magmoormaster]

So just to clarify, when you first gas up the gun it doesn’t shoot, only when it turns on? And then with the noid disconnected it still shoots when you turn it on?

well that don’t make no sense. You sure you unplugged the noid? Or have it plugged into the right spot on the board?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Correct, need to turn the marker on and if fires with air, or solenoid clicks without air.

There's only two options to unplug on the board, the lower, larger bundle of wires and the upper. I remover the lower and it will shoot when turned on. When I remove the upper wires nothing happens.

I cannot seem to get the solenoid to click outside of that initial activation though.

[Magmoormaster]

Cdn_Cuda that being the case, I’m guessing (haven’t worked on a DM in a while so I’m just guessing) that the upper bundle of wires is the noid not the lower.

Which then means that this is the trigger that needs to be adjusted, or there is a problem with the board and/or switch itself. There’s a set screw on the right side of the gun above the trigger, try backing that out. That controls the forward travel of the trigger. You should be able to hear/feel the micro switch click when you pull the trigger. If you can’t, the switch is probably already tripped.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I loosened the set screw to the point it fell out, and the the solenoid still clicks on startup. The trigger is not touching the switch at all.

[minimag03]

Are DM10s updateable? It might be worth trying a new firmware if that's a thing.

When you pull the trigger, can you hear the microswitch click? (no air, not turned on). I've heard of microswitches going bad on boards, especially if the trigger was setup to fully depress the switch when pulling the trigger. If you cannot hear a faint click from the microswitch, that's not a good sign.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Not hearing the click at all.

[Trbo323]

Sorry I haven't found this thread before. I have experience with the dm platform.

I'm betting you have a short somewhere. From your first photo I can see the trigger is not resting on the switch so no trigger adjustments are going to do anything.

Also, the larger bundle of wires is your eyes, the plug with 2 wires is your noid

One question first. After the first shot, how does it behave? Does it shoot when you pull the trigger? Skip any shots? Anything odd after the first turn on shot?

I would also do a factory reset on the board. I doubt it but it's possible some of the trigger filtering settings are so loose it's giving you a false trigger pull when powered up

Here's what I would try, take the frame off the body and take the board out of the frame. Plug the noid only back into the board and power it on. See if it will give you that power on shot when out of the frame.

If it does, I'd suspect the switch itself has gone bad.

If it doesn't, I'd suspect the back of the solder points for the switch are grounding to the frame giving you false trigger pulls

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Removed the board, only plugged in the solenoid and it still clicks on power up. So think it’s the switch.

[Magmoormaster]

I agree the switch is definitely bad. Looks like it's hard mounted to the board, so you might have to replace the whole board.

Since the switch isn't clicking, the swtich itself is probably stuck. You can try breaking the switch loose. See if you can get the little black thing poking out behind the metal flap to move.

Also if I've said anything that's a "no duh", sorry. I started a new job this week, which starts much earlier in the day than I'm used to so I've been really tired.

[Cdn_Cuda]

The little black thing does move, just does not click like they usually do.

[Magmoormaster]

That's a bummer. Probably need to replace the board then.

[Trbo323]

I agree the switch is definitely bad. Looks like it's hard mounted to the board, so you might have to replace the whole board.

If this is the case you can try to solder a new switch on. Worst case it doesn't work and you are still in the same boat you are now

If you need to replace the board let me know. I don't know for sure if they match but I have a spare dm6 board. It's the same basic layout, wired eyes and I know the noids are the same so there shouldn't be a problem there.

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