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SLPS springs in a pre2k?
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They should work just fine in a dialer setup. With a dialer setup you tend to get a little more preload on the hammer spring so you might have to back off a little more then you would with an IVG but that is just part of getting the correct tune setup for your valve train.
"When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt
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Hammer no. Valve spring, possible. I had to trim the valve spring in my 1995 build to the proper length for things to balance correctly. I think they changed the valve spring length in 1998?Velcor will save us...
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Same spring kit? I have a 95 body as well
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Yup spring length was changed in 98 (ish), WGP records were iffy. Clipping springs (contrary to what a lot in PB think) is fine to do. I set up dialers with full length "nelson" springs back out the dialer almost all the way and see where velocity is then if needed dial in until 270-280 fps. If I can not get velocity down I clip one loop off until my velocity is down around 250 fps then dial the dialer in to 270-280 so I have some adjustment range up and down.
Remember the first thing is to sweet spot your setup regardless of velocity then worry about velocity. It is more important to get the valve and valve spring setup figured out then worry about the hammer spring to get the velocity and pump stroke you want.
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Grendel good info, thanks! And true about sweet spotting first.
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To echo OpusX, You need to trim down the valve spring on the really old Pre-2ks. My 96 cocker needed a trimmed valve spring.
It would be extremely difficult to reach playable velocity with an SPLS hammer spring in a Pre2k cocker. Maybe a wizard with an aftermarket valve, bored out valve chamber, volumizer, or other such arcane parts could do it, but I wouldn't bet on it.
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Also what I've seen others say, but on the flip side that they work in pre2k.
Are there particular springs that would work well in an older setup? I've thought about also just using stock lower tube and readjust and sweetspot since it's obvious the previous owner didn't. Then a lighter pump return spring.
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I would still recommend the SLPS valve spring, it's not hard to clip it shorter. Trigger return spring and sear spring form the SLPS kit are also excellent.
For the hammer spring I believe I just used an inception kit untill I found one that worked. I think it was mid strength.
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iamthelazerviking Yep I have the same SLPS kit in my fancy 1995 build, and it is a great kit, just the valve spring is the longer 98-plus spec. I will need to measure some other valve springs I have that are the pre-98 length to get you that detail to trim to length.Velcor will save us...
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Maybe I missed this, but you might also need a new hammer. The old hammers were cut to accept the original narrow hammer springs (so the end of the spring set inside the rear of the hammer). The newer, wider springs will not fit into that cut in the original hammer. If this is the case, finding a new hammer might be difficult if you're body is not drilled to access the hammer lug from the top of the gun.
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Great info in this thread already. Just wanted to confirm that it's fine to shorten the hammer/valve springs on pre-98 that use a dialer. Just remove small portions at a time cause you can't add it back on
When trimming the valve spring, don't install with the trimmed portion against the valve stem - it'll eat away the plastic over time.My Old Feedback (300+) https://web.archive.org/web/20180112...-feedback.html
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Velcor will save us...
Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)
- Likes 1
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