Autococker eBlade will not trip sear consistently.

[Sdawg]

Calling all eBlade people. Have you ever had l the problem where the clapper doesn’t trip the sear consistently? It will shoot for a few shots and then start to recock without firing. So, the barrel gets clogged with paintballs.

I have been beating my head against the wall, and I cannot figure out if the problem is mechanical (e.g., the sear itself), the clapper being defective, or the sci-fi board being defective (e.g., the capacitor is dying).

Yes, I have tried a new Duracell 9v and yes the wires are in the correct plugs. The hammer lug is as short as I can make it. any ideas?

[Ecapnation]

Could be a weak clapper or could be overtightened grip screws

[BrendanB]

adjust your lug length, and or try your lpr pressure to make sure its going far enough back to cock.
or make sure your rod/length/bumbers/ram lengths are long enough when lpr has enough pressure to cock.

[warbosschoppa]

What Brendan said, I had this come up on a rebuild I did lately, ended up having to readjust the cocking rod and lug.

[superman]

make sure you are using a square lug, set low enough to reliably cock. If you can press on the cocking rod and it jump forward it is not low enough. If you can pull the cocking rod back and let it go and it jumps the sear then it is not low enough. Once it is set properly make sure it is cocking reliably with lpr pressure.

Have you checked to make sure there is no debris or build up in the clapper? Does it have the shim?

[Trbo323]

. The hammer lug is as short as I can make it. any ideas?

As short as you can make it? Seems like your problem right there. If it's not catching the sear the hammer is returning forward but you won't notice it because it's riding the ram so it's not impacting the valve

Also check your pump arm length. If everything is screwed in too far you could be hitting the maximum travel of the ram right at where the sear catches the lug causing it to be inconsistent

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[Sdawg]

Thank you for the replies everyone. What I have noticed is that when the is problem occurs, the clapper is failing to move far enough. It is not the grips, because I have them completely removed (I am using the microswitch on the board).

So it is either a defective capacitor on the board or a defective clapper. I have ordered an e1 board and a new clapper off eBay to see if I can rule out those points of failure.

I also ordered a new lug as the old one did have some wear, but if that is the point of failure, I will be surprised.

Does anyone use Wurth HHS Plus on the hammer and sear like the original eBlade manual recommends?

[superman]

Did you confirm that the noids are plugged in the correct ports on the board? I want to say they are different than the standard wgp board. check the scifi manual.

[Sdawg]

Did you confirm that the noids are plugged in the correct ports on the board? I want to say they are different than the standard wgp board. check the scifi manual.

Yes, the wires are correct.

[Magmoormaster]

Have you reset the board? Possible the dwell on the hammer solenoid is too low. Happened fairly regularly with the eblades I worked on back in the day.

[Sdawg]

Have you reset the board? Possible the dwell on the hammer solenoid is too low. Happened fairly regularly with the eblades I worked on back in the day.

Factory reset and put sear time to the max 12ms. Still has the issue.


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