ULE X-Frame double trigger

[dzslozt]

Got my new ULE mag tuned and firing properly and consistently. Now working on the trigger. So far I’ve been able to remove most of the pre-travel take-up by adjusting the sear. I’m noticing that it fires within 1mm of sear pull, which is GREAT! Problem is there is significant over-travel. Looking at ways to limit this. Any experienced mag owners with some experience on this? Right now I’m thinking that adding an adjustable screw to the back of the trigger. Or to be SUPER fancy, adding it inside the frame. I’m running a X-Frame. Any input is appreciated.

Also looking at trigger wobble. Already ordered a pack of 1/8” ID stainless ring shims at 0.001 thickness. Adding a couple of these should make it nice and crisp.

[Trbo323]

I'm surprised whatever trigger you have doesn't already have a post travel screw.

Put that screw in the trigger face. You don't want it to come out of alignment slightly and then have to take apart the whole marker to get to it at the field

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[superman]

What i can tell you is that most people make the trigger pull too short and end up having issues keeping the marker functioning properly. It needs pre travel to properly reset the sear.

[dzslozt]

What i can tell you is that most people make the trigger pull too short and end up having issues keeping the marker functioning properly. It needs pre travel to properly reset the sear.

This is good advice. It's been awhile since I micro tuned an Automag. I used to be quite good at it and I've forgotten a lot of what I learned. This definitely rings the old memory bell. It takes time to really tune a mechanical marker and this will save me some of that.

I'm surprised whatever trigger you have doesn't already have a post travel screw.

Put that screw in the trigger face. You don't want it to come out of alignment slightly and then have to take apart the whole marker to get to it at the field

Also good advice. My thoughts of putting it in the frame would be to access it by simply removing the grip, which would keep the adjustment protected and require minimal effort to access without messing with any of the other components. I had a good look at the X-Frame looking for the adjustment you suggested might be there. I didn't see anything. I think the RT sear had one. With the AGD site down I can't link directly to it. However, I think the photo Luke has on his site is the correct one. That extra arm off the sear, with that black pointed adjuster looks like it would adjust how far the sear would rock back and forth, hence allowing adjustment of the over-travel.

I should mention that messing with these things can get you into trouble, of the sort superman mentioned and reminded me of. Definitely cycle the marker with lots of paint before committing to anything you take on the field.

[Jordan]

That sear you linked to is for an Emag only. The "adjuster" is part of the solenoid that pulls the sear in electronic/hybrid modes.

[dzslozt]

That sear you linked to is for an Emag only. The "adjuster" is part of the solenoid that pulls the sear in electronic/hybrid modes.

Thank you for this. I had figured it out but was unable to post due to a system update.

[cougar20th]

The reason Agd triggers don't have setscrews is that Agd has historically been against them. Likely because people would adjust them incorrectly and cause more problems.

[dzslozt]

The reason Agd triggers don't have set screws is that Agd has historically been against them. Likely because people would adjust them incorrectly and cause more problems.

This is very true. I installed a set screw on my last tournament mag. I had to fiddle with it a lot to get it right. Had to buy a new frame because I screwed it up when the clamp on my press broke.

[dzslozt]

Tuning my ULE automag X-Frame. What is the proper method to remove the trigger? Close examination reveals that the right of the trigger pin (looking from the rear) protrudes slightly vs the left being nearly flush. There also appears to be something anchoring on the right side. There are slight bulges in the frame metal around the pin. About three of them. What to make of all this? How does one remove the trigger without any damage? Been looking for a tutorial or some documentation and not finding anything.

I am not installing a set screw 😊. Looking to add a shim or two to remove the trigger wobble. After putting a lot of paint through it, the cycle varies a slight bit and a tight tune will end badly.

[cougar20th]

Hammer the pin from left to right. Agd uses trigger pins that deform the metal to hold them in.

[dzslozt]

Hammer the pin from left to right. Agd uses trigger pins that deform the metal to hold them in.

Worked beautifully. Thank you.