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Roll-out prevention method effects on paint

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    Roll-out prevention method effects on paint

    You have a smaller bore sized barrel/insert to keep the ball from rolling out, or you have something like the printed fingers (or even tape or nail polish)

    Both stop the ball from rolling out, but one is putting tension/pressure on the ball for X amount of inches, while the other doesn't (at least not as much).

    Using tape does also create tension, and is the cheapest easiest roll-out prevention method lol, worth testing.

    I haven't done my own testing so I wonder if there's adverse effects going with one method over the other as far as the flight of the ballz.
    Last edited by iamthelazerviking; 02-06-2024, 11:41 PM.
    Feedback 3.0

    #2
    1/4” stripe of e tape. You’re way over thinking this. The paint is like an asteroid not a marble.

    Comment


    • iamthelazerviking
      iamthelazerviking commented
      Editing a comment
      Gonna have to give it a try. I think I did try a while back in a phantom barrel and it worked but I think I remember the tape not staying in place and coming off pretty quickly

    #3
    Ya if paint was anywhere near perfect these things might not be negligible.

    Comment


      #4
      Yes, longer bores do seem to break more paint when the paint's quality is poor. A friend tested Sconi's new barrel kit and swears the short bores handle bad paint way better (for sale on Nova PB's website). There are other options too like CCM's and Tech-T's barrel kits, Lapco's sizers, etc.

      My prefer'ed method is Palmer's Wedgits. I never had issues with them breaking bad/old paint. I have not used the other methods such as the printed fingers, nail polish, etc. I've heard the fingers will break paint once they start to wear out and become damaged. And nail polish wears oiut.

      Comment


      • Chuck E Ducky

        Chuck E Ducky

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Overbore anything with detents. Also the soft tip bolt is a waste of money and could be causing more issues than it’s solving. The Emek will shoot ultra brittle paint with zero issues if you over bore and let the detents do their job. I have never had an issue breaking paint in my emek. It’s more likely you dumped a pod in that had broken paint in it already. If you have a tight bore and you break one that can also cause more breaks. Especially in the cold with premium summer fill.

      • iamthelazerviking
        iamthelazerviking commented
        Editing a comment
        Chuck E Ducky yeah I've been shooting an Emek for several years. Always over bore. I tried with the stock bolt, chopped a bunch. So the ST3 did it's job. No broken paint in pods or anything, all barrel breaks.

      • Chuck E Ducky

        Chuck E Ducky

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Same thing with my CSR it’s got the soft tip bolt I don’t even use it or ever felt the need to. If my rotor will jam it down the breach my PE markers will sling it. I have more trouble getting the brittle paint into the hopper. Impact of a shot to the pod from a previous point you don’t check, or a lil over or under filled pod in a rush fill between points causes more issues for me then paint actually breaking in the barrel. I rarely have those problems except for the rare instances a field it dumping there summer fill on a sub 20* day on unsuspecting tournament players. Everyone was having breaks that day but more so in the pods then the barrels my team did extremely well because I told everyone to just overbore the hell out of it and shoot through it. It worked we took 1st.

      #5
      The day I measured .635-.675” paint in the same bag, after chrono’ing 220-280ish fps, I all but gave up.

      I use a $40 .693” CP Advantage One Piece barrel with a RedLeaderSB detent/fingers. If I break 2-3 balls, I put the pump away and play mag-fed or cram and jam tube feed an open bolt.

      I guess to answer your question, fingers cause the least amount of curveballs, followed by short (like tech-T) inserts.

      Comment


      • iamthelazerviking
        iamthelazerviking commented
        Editing a comment
        Do you use the 693 CP on your pump exclusively, regardless of paint?

      • nak81783

        nak81783

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes. I think I got my first set of RedLeaderSB’s detent fingers last winter. After a couple more tries with the Empire Sniper’s barrel kit over the summer, I got sick of rollouts, breaks, and curveballs within the same bag of paint, and I found the best result came from overboring with the fingers.

      #6
      For pump I use a straight bore that is .681 from threads to tip and it shoots money. Redleader Laser Cut Detent rings work amazingly well I just over bore a bit to compensate for their thickness. I have used them on super small paint out of my .681 and had zero issues. But you wouldn’t want to squeeze a ball much if the paint is brittle. So it depends on the situation. I definitely feel a one piece barrel that don’t step up to a larger bore are more accurate given the same paint however they are harder on paint with the longer control bore. No science behind it but I have my personal favorites. I like my one piece barrels from experience.

      Anything with functional detents I over bore with the exception of my Stock Class Phantom because I like a tighter fit bore for efficiency numbers. If it’s got functional detents I let them do their job. I get better consistency so I can get closer to field speed without getting velocity spikes with crap paint. Especially for Tournament play ware your chrono checked before each point. Larger bore is easier to shoot clean to if you break paint. Sometimes if a bore is too tight it will shoot fine till you get a fat ball then everything els after that break will just shred due to the paint and shell already in the barrel. I rarely even bring a swab with me I just shoot through it especially with anything semi. I can do that effectively because I over bore.

      Comment


      • Chuck E Ducky

        Chuck E Ducky

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes my jam is a Lapco Pump PB Tight Stick in .681 and I just got a .678 for those super small paint days.

        However I did pick up a really nice kit J4 PB makes. Killer deal for a full kit. ChuckLove turned me onto them and I really like the kit. They are nice and thin too so you can use them on an ASP cocker threaded phantom body and still use the over barrel handle. $160 for a Set of 4 (.689, .685, .681 and .677.) I really like the look to it’s super simple and ported really well. Nice and quiet on most markers to. Comes with a really nice roll up barrel bag too. Just under 14” I find them the perfect length. But I do like a longer barrel especially on my pumps. They got some entertaining destruction videos on YouTube to they are supposed to be really durable.

        POLISHED SS 350 FCB 4 Barrel Kit: In a world full of companies selling aluminum tubes often they all try and stand out with hype, claims of superior science and selling you the markup for that logo on the side. They pretty much all claim they are the best. A sad secret is most come off of the same machine. From OEM to many well known brands you are used to paying over $100 a barrel for. The same aluminum, the same tools cut them, the same machine spins them. What if you just want afforable performance in a clean lightweight package? The blueprinted crate engine option for your classic marker instead of a space gun barrel? What barrel did people want?When we polled our feedback group the answer was pretty clear. A Full Control 1 piece Barrel Set, with nothing but a really clean look to match their array of markers, often classics. Thats what they wanted, and it wasn't on the market. So we did it. The 4mula! line of products from J4 Paintball comes from feedback, finding areas of the market that are unfulfilled, we can innovate, or some items that we think are cool. Without paying a large price for the brand, just a reasonable price for the same barrel, the 4mula! Super Stock Barrel Set in Polish with a Soft Case is what you have been looking for.Set of 4 (.689, .685, .681 and .677.) with Terry Cloth lined soft case.Full Control Bore for consistant and efficient use.Lightweight, 92 grams/3.2oz350mm/13.78" longPolished Finish The SS Features nothing but the CDR (Core Drilling Relief) built into the front and the Lotus style of "Adding Lightness", coming in at 92grams/3.2oz. A small divet out of the tail stock, and clean porting at the end to maximize barrel pressure till the last 4 inches. If you run low pressure a FCB maybe to your liking.The CDR allows the ball to still have a nice squared release edge even after you take a few field cores, run it through the branches to get a clean shot, or try and scratch your name into local bunkers. You should have years of hard use and still shoot straight. Shiny

      • minimag03

        minimag03

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Oh nice, I also have an .681 Tightstick from the original run. It made me SO sad to learn they make more while I was away from the sport. I'd kill for a chance to buy more of them :/

        The J4 barrel looks really cool. It reminds me of the Eigenbarrel V1/2. Similar porting, weight, and price. How's the internal polish on them?

      • Chuck E Ducky

        Chuck E Ducky

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Not Lapco smooth I think they offer the nicest bores out of any barrel manufacturer. But dam good especially for it’s price range.you can buy singles to way better then what I have seen from inception.

      #7
      Whoa. 🤯 maybe you thinking on the level, and I am under thinking.

      Comment


        #8
        All of my most accurate / consistent closed bolt setups were with things like wedgits or detent fingers, tape, or nail polish. Not with inserts.

        For open bolt guns I use the barrel that has a length and look that I like, and sounds a way that I like. If it shoots straight its GTG

        Comment


          #9
          I second on overboring with some type of detent when using closed bolt. The fingers have worked well for me until you remove your barrel during a high stakes game and forget its in there. Those things are almost impossible to find at my local dirty field once it's dropped. The over bore looks passed any inconsistent paint. But I just bought the brand new crbn ic pwr nano barrel with the dye inserts so I can use it when the shop carries good paint. Haven't used it yet though.

          Comment


          • Chuck E Ducky

            Chuck E Ducky

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I agree You know good paint when you get it.

          #10
          My phantom has a .681 lapco with asp detents. My cocker has a .682 lapco with fingers. Both shoot lasers. Can’t imagine that o-rings, fingers, tape, polish or wedgits affect the ball in any significant way since they’re at the start of the barrel and the ball has time to equalize. Maybe it would be noticeable with shorter barrels? Can’t say for sure though as my shortest barrel is my pgp, which is exactly one 8” insert long after the bolt and shoots the mittens off kittens.

          Comment

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