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Dragun TES striker seals- unobtanium?

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    Dragun TES striker seals- unobtanium?

    Coworker gave me an old T.E.S. and it's needed a lot of work to bring to life.
    It's cycling, but not 100% and I think a new striker/ hammer seal would help.
    For those that don't know, these don't use a simple O-ring for the hammer but a hollow concave seal. I'm wondering if anyone knows whether there's a way to still get these or if they are interchangeable with something more commonly-available.

    Any help would be appreciated.

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    #2
    That looks like it’s probably a quad-ring or x-ring. They are the same thing with different names. See if a standard 015 oring fits in its place properly. Then just goggle search up a quad or x ring in the same size. McMaster Carr carries them. They are not terribly difficult to find but you won’t see them at a lot of hardware stores.
    My feedback

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      #3
      They are "u-cup" orings and for the fleeting moment my old store carried them we only ever bought them from the manufacturer.

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        #4
        If this is a standard U cup seal then it shouldn't be too hard to get. The Oring Store carries these but I'd check the local hydraulic store to better match the size. Or you could try replacing this with a 100 series (or metric equivalent) oring. I did this with a Mokal Fokus hammer.

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          #5
          Originally posted by The Inflicted View Post
          Coworker gave me an old T.E.S. and it's needed a lot of work to bring to life.
          It's cycling, but not 100% and I think a new striker/ hammer seal would help.
          Any help would be appreciated.

          ​​​
          if memory serves me right, those were shipped with a valve spring that was WAY too long. I remember clipping them nearly in half (just long enough to keep the valve closed)… this increases the mechanical dwell making the entire system more reliable… the only time U-cups really need to be replaced is if they get clipped or turned to goo

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            #6
            Thanks all!
            Hopefully that is indeed what it is and I can get one cheaply enough.
            Refurbing this thing has been such a chore, though I'm pretty pleased with myself replacing the regulator seat with a drop from a hot glue gun.

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              #7
              Now that I think about it, I bet the odd seal on the Proto SLG's bolt is a common U-cup size as well.
              I got rid of mine partially because I didn't think there was a way to get new ones.

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                #8
                Try flipping it around and see if it works better. U cups are directional blown seals designed to work with the air input going to the "cupped" side, so it gets blown open to create a seal but collapses while traveling in the opposite direction for lower friction.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Araphel View Post
                  Try flipping it around and see if it works better. U cups are directional blown seals designed to work with the air input going to the "cupped" side, so it gets blown open to create a seal but collapses while traveling in the opposite direction for lower friction.
                  Say, that actually works pretty well.
                  Thanks!

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                    #10
                    It worked, sorta.



                    Gun was working fine in testing but at the field it kept wanting to double or triple-fire on each trigger pull. Thankfully it didn't break any paint but it did require manual re-cocking every dozen rounds or so. Still, I can tell my co-worker that it lives.

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