M98 hammer not recycling on custom markers

[COMMANDERBOND]

I have 3 customized tippmann markers made during the last covid scare. The problem is i have recycling issues. I have done others and they work fine. i am guessing one of these issues.
1-Fill nipple replaceing short hose. i have done others without issue ......so
2-secondary right handed cocking handle slot milled out - posibly causing leaking issues
3- hammer o-ring wore - i dont have one.

the valve is ok as well as the power tube / running hpa with a remote. I did 2 98 bulpups and and they work flawlessly.

https://imgur.com/eaBrdVf

https://imgur.com/7tFaYdF

Is it possible the teflon tape is causing a blockage?

[markdem]

"3- hammer o-ring wore - i dont have one"

the o-ring wore out? Or its missing entirely? In either case, i would probably put a new o-ring on there

also, i only use genuine tippmann parts. I have found that some knock-off parts such as ball detents are a slightly different size and can cause issues

[nak81783]

I'm basing my response off of my Valken Blackhawk, which is essentially the same marker. Make sure the screws on the side of the body holding the valve housing in place are snug. If not, misalignment issues will cause failure to cycle. Do not overtighten. They strip out relatively easily. Clean male and female threads thoroughly with a solvent, and use a mechanically breaking thread locker (typically blue in color). This will help keep them from vibrating out during play.

[Socalpumpballer]

We’re going to need more information. But you really need to replace the orings and lube. Before anything else.

[nak81783]

It sounds like you have others. Swap a hammer or hammer oring to see if it resolves the issue.

[Morgenstern]

If you put your mouth on the fill nipple and blow into it while push the hammer forward to open the valve, and air moves through the system (you can hear it going down the barrel, etc) then I doubt it's an air restriction.

If the back two receiver screws are too tight it can pinch the hammer. This might be even more critical to get right on a chopped body with fewer screws.

If you put a hairline crack in the power tube (check the mold lines/seam down the length of the power tube too! A split can hide there.) while torquing down that brass fitting then that could also be your problem.

The factory hammer o-ring has to be pretty worn to affect recocking but if the new slot you cut is rubbing on the o-ring that could do it. The slot also shouldn't be any farther forward than the stock one to keep the blowback gas where you want it for long enough

Check the surfaces of the hammer and sear where they touch touch. The hammer in your picture looks worn but it could also just be some dirt. There isn't a lot of room for wear here and that's why they were made out of such good metal, and the ones made after the venture capital buyout do not last like the original Dennis Tippmann Sr ones did.

Post more pictures if none of our advice is helping

[COMMANDERBOND]

But all 3 custom guns had issues.....

https://imgur.com/8fiZ2pw

[COMMANDERBOND]

THIS GUN WORKS FLAWLESSLY 4 YEARS STRAIGHT

https://imgur.com/7tFaYdF

[Fubarius]

More info is always good. "Recycling issues" is a bit vague. Describe in detail the issue. There's a difference between a gun that cycles fine 90% of the time but seems to double cycle the other 10%, and a gun that cycles continuously with a trigger pull but never seems to catch, and a gun that when fired the hammer sputters to a stop fully closed. All have vastly different issues, but all fall under the same blanket category of "gun doesn't cycle right".

Another helpful bit of info is if it's firing a ball at full speed, or greatly reduced.

Also remember to consider the hammer, hammer linkage, and bolt to be one piece together, since they are all connected. I've seen a gun brought to me with "does not recock" on the work order turn out to be the front detent installed backwards, jamming the front bolt, which of course stops the hammer from recocking. Another with a custom paint job had some overspray in the hammer linkage channel, which jammed the whole works enough to slow the hammer down so it wouldn't recock.

[Fubarius]

You also mentioned remotes. This is sort of like a computer "did you try turning it off and back on" suggesting, but I've seen quite a few remotes where if you crank the on/off knob down all the way tight the pin depressor would end up pressing against the top of the tank valve, severely restricting air flow.. So you'd get a few clean shots then sudden failure to recock like it's an empty tank.

[Morgenstern]

Did you get the spring loaded steel sear tripper plate that's on the trigger right? On what looks like a homemade replacement? We're not going to be of much help without pics of those internals.

To see if the mechanical part of the cycling is working I de-gas the gun, hold the trigger down, and a cock and release the hammer letting it snap forward as violently as possible. If the hammer is skipping the sear the problem should show up when you do that.

[COMMANDERBOND]

the trigger is custom, part of an older sten project. and the stainelss clip was installed. I milled the trigger to accept the stainless clip. I cant remember why I did the trigger - but I can try a normal trigger.

[Trbo323]

Put a barrel swab down the barrel, will they recock then?

What's your input pressure?

Remove the bolt tip o ring, sometimes it can get caught up and cause problems and going without it really doesn't effect tippmanns



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