Would there be an problems getting a glued Dye Boomstick Cerakoted? Or would it need to be separated? Would just want the whole thing to be matte black.
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Dye Boomstick Cerakote Question
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It would depend on the glue (epoxy) Cerakote is cured at 250F (300F for Elite series). For temperature sensitive parts you can drop the curing temperature down to 150-180F. So I would talk with you applicator to see what they can do. You could also separate the barrel tip and back have it Cerakoted then re-glue. Most of the 2 part epoxies you would use can be softened and removed with acetone or air plane stripper without damaging the aluminum or anodization.
I have used PC-7 epoxy for the Dye barrels I have glued up and the max service temperature is 200F and basic JB Weld can take 500F for 10 minutes.
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Cerakote has air cure options I have used with great results. Armor black has a oven cure and air version. I have used both on the same marker and there is no difference in finish. Only down side with air cure is the 5 day cure time. Not a big deal if you just put it in the corner and try to forget about it. You are going to want to try and handle it because it will be "dry". Leave it alone for the 5 days. This will make the boomstick epoxy a non-issue.
Air cure part numbers start with C, oven cure with an H.
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I would just look at the air cure options, there are actually some beneficial characteristics with the air cure over the heat cured (but its been a while so I cannot remember exactly what was better and worse on the air cure). Obviously you will probably want to make sure the inside is masked, thread likely would be "ok" assuming a proper application but they just may not feel nice.
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