To loctite or not to loctite a backblock?

[masterchiefmurph]

I have some painful financial decisions and I need to know if threadlocking the back block is worth it for longevity.

I personally think it would be annoying to get it off if I ever needed to but that takes a back seat to protecting the threads themselves.

Also a number of ram threads came without loctite, is there a similar advantage to locking those?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[$L!mBo]

use blue

[Jonnydread]

+1

If i'm not worried about an air-seal I like to put a dab of Blue and let it dry for 24 hours THEN thread it in. It helps reduce backing out from usage without strongly locking the threads into position.

[superman]

I have slowly been moving towards loctiting them. You can always heat and replace the pump arm if you need to. Even if you use a lower strength loctite it will be better than nothing.

[latches109]

If it's a standard back block you can drop a snip of pneumatic hose in there to act as a spring and provide clamping force to the threads. If the back block is drilled all the way through then locktite can help.

Pump arm without coupler:
The no locktite method is to use a setscrew inside the pump arm as a travel stop. Rams naturally want to rotate clockwise each cycle and will tighten over time.

[Grendel]

Vibra-tite VC-3 would be my choice, should hold fine and handles repeated vibrations without loosening.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/plastic-compatible/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

[Ego10Baller]

Not to hijack this thread but hopefully I can get some help on a similar question:

How about keeping the threaded knob on the back of a cocking rod on the cocking rod? I often find that the 'tail-end' or threaded knob on the back of the cocking rod unthreads rather than the rod itself unthreading from the hammer when I'm removing the cocking rod assembly for cleaning. At this point, I'm moving toward using red loctite (the one that you can loosen with heat from a lighter - not the one that you need a blowtorch for) to hold the threaded knob onto the cocking rod.

I've tried blue loctite, plumbers tape, threading the little screw on the back of the knob down tight and none of those have worked so far. I always end up with a cocking rod less the cocking knob, stuck in my hammer and I have to use the 2 hex nut method to get it out which is a pain to have to repeatedly do.

[superman]

I would use blue, but when you use it you have to make sure you apply enough and then you also have to put the threads in tension, typically by tightening the set screw down.

[Ego10Baller]

I'll give it a shot. Thank you.

And to clarify the set screw, the cocking rod in this case is the one that came on the recent meteor pump - so the set screw comes in from the back of the cocking rod knob rather than the one like on a shocktech cocking rod that sets on the threads / screws in from the side of the knob.

That's the one (that screw coming in from the back of the cocking rod knob) that you mean to really tighten down though, is that correct?

[latches109]

once you set the cocking rod length, put the cocking rod in a soft jaw vice and clamp the knob. then tighten the set screw.  If the knob unthreads and you are left with the cocking rod in the marker, use two 10-32 nuts to get the rod out.

[jokers]

Do not let Trbo323 see this, he still is having nightmares about red loctite on a couple of PPS!

[Daltech]

I use a soldering iron to remove loctite screws from microphones. We’re talking $2,500 mics, where a blowtorch or a lighter wouldn’t cut it, a minute carefully touching only the screw and I could see the loctite liquify and start bubbling, it then unscrewed very easily.

Use a soldering iron to remove red loctite, and please do not use a lighter. Will it work with a lighter? Yes, but one could also hammer nails with a crescent wrench.

[Trbo323]

Do not let Trbo323 see this, he still is having nightmares about red loctite on a couple of PPS!

Your damn markers, pps just bathed the lower tube in loc tight

From a common player buying the markers perspective it's fine, from an airsmiths prospective it's absolute garbage that they are using red or in the case of the nasty, green which is a penetrating version so it just goes everywhere

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[gogi19]

Similar question but the adjustable WGP 3 way I just rebuilt (2K5 Prostock)doesn't place the barbs in the correct position when fully tightened. Are these meant to be loctited in to the properly indexed position on the front block ?

[superman]

I use an oring and some times use loctite.

[SR_matt]

My orry came form the factory loctited and I always saw so many people have issues with the arm spinning that I never have considered not using something on them unless its a pump.

Blue is the common recommendation but frankly I am planning to use the lighter purple on most things on my build as it's noted for that size of thread where the blue is really meant for larger screws. granted blue has a stronger hold but not sure you really need it and purple would be easier to remove if needed.

I am also probably gona use the VC-3 stuff on at least some parts, I hadn't really considered it for the back block but with Grendel mentioning it I may consider it for this.

[gabe]

I've moved to loctiting them. The pump arm started to rotate and bind the ram on a couple guns I build so a dab of loctite fixed that. I think it also helps prevent the threads from wearing out and stripping.

[FredMnkyDad10]

I have actually started to use the permatex 25210. Forgot about this but came across at auto parts store. My old mechanic bosses used it on old drum breaks to keep them in place. Does the work but less than the red, blue or green.