Psychoballistics Superbolt Questions

[nicmauro]

So, I picked up on of the PB cockers from that auction over the summer that was for a friend having medical issues (sorry, I'm bad with details) but then it pretty much sat around at the tail end of other projects. I recently picked up an Eblade and was planning a build around it but then remembered the Superbolt. I really like the body, even if it is cheapo overall, so I figured why not 😂

Honestly, it all went together easily and I replaced the stock pneumatics in the process but I did have issues with the valve and a few small things I was hoping to get some guidance on...

1. Does anyone have experience getting aftermarket valves to fit in these? I tried a rat and an ANS (both 9/16) since I had them around but both seem to hit the valve stop/perch (not sure of the technical name) just a little to soon and the valve won't go in all the way. I scavenged a cup seal out of a different gun (original was broken on arrival) and it functions but I would like to replace it with something higher flow, etc. but I am hesitant to buy something else and not have it fit.

2. Related question, instead of a new valve can the stock style cup seal/stem be replaced with something higher flow? Like one of the stems that has been turned to be thinner? Or will it likely not fit correctly? If so, is this something I can purchase currently?

3. Can the body be bored out for 11/16 valves? Maybe getting a little fancy for the PB but I do want to get another body done so I was thinking of just biting the bullet and doing them both and eliminating the valve issue but it seems like some bodies aren't candidates for this?

4. The bolt seems to be a proprietary design, or at least one I am unfamiliar with. I am attaching a photo but it basically has a fixed pin in the bolt that inserts into the block and then twists to lock it with the help of a ball detent. Are my only aftermarket options to drill the block for a pin? Are there bolts drilled of a P-block or would I need to figure that out and drill the bolt as well?

TIA!

[Ecapnation]

In regards to three and four

Likely yes but you'll be spending more on something than it's worth

The bolt is similar to dye ultralights but there is not much after market for those....and again when they pop up cost around what an entire super bolt costs.

You are really better off leaving these be

[nicmauro]

It looks like it is an evo length bolt? Was thinking the locking pins and maybe the detent could be moved over. I realize the value on all of it is poor, just planning to tinker as opportunities come up...

[Ecapnation]

It might be Evo length but not mounting style

[nicmauro]

I actually forgot I have an Evo bolt from a lot I bought. It is the same length and is the same overall design but milled to be a lot lighter. Since I have zero use for it I will probably try to drill it for the mounting pins and see what happens

[DarkApollo]

IF I recall correctly, they do not use a standard literally ANYTHING.
Your best bet, if you want this body to function and flow would be to have the lower end bored for the larger valve.
I also hope you are planning on running anything except the stock PB pneumatics... That LPR is garbage at best.

Yes, the half twist bolt is a pseudo dye design and definitely not much in the way of aftermarket for those. If you want a different bolt, you can either modify one to take the pin, or have someone make you a bolt. Either way though, a different bolt is not going to gain much of anything in terms of performance.

[nicmauro]

Huh, everything except 2 things seem to be stock cocker that I have noticed and I tore the whole thing down. The screws to hold the frame to the body are 10/24 instead of 10/32 and the bolt has the unique locking mechanism. Beyond that, a limited number of valves seem to seat correctly but a stock 2k+ one did, just not any "fancy" aftermarket ones. And yeah, I put a palmers ram and LPR on that I was saving for some unknown reason. I mean, it seems to shoot fine for now. I am assuming there will be wear issues down the line but it's not my forever gun 😂

[DarkApollo]

I could be recalling wrong. I thought there were more thread issues other than just those.
The tolerance issues really mess up using standard cocker parts. If one valve fits, they all should. The aluminum is also not exactly high quality either.

[nicmauro]

Well, it is entirely possible that some things that I reused aren't standard. Banjo bolt, hammer lug, etc. but they all looked normal. I'm still pretty new to tiny differences in cockers though so I wouldn't rely on my info. I know there were the Dragun "cockers" that used a lot of different parts so maybe that is what you are thinking of?

[SoKoPaTh]

superbolts have terrible tolerance issues specifically in the lower tube, i.e valve. Many would leak from the factory cause the tolerances were so bad the valve wouldn't seal. I've had the best luck in the past with an obnoxious amount of dow55 on the valve o-ring and leave it be. Plus they used the crappiest Chineseium you could make a marker out of. It's your money, but There's not much value in these and respect on the second hand market should you want to sell it.

[nicmauro]

Appreciate the input but not really worried about selling and I have about $80 bucks sunk in the whole thing outside of easily moveable parts, etc. Mine has sealed fine so far and really, I'm just using the body and a few small pieces. Really, it was mostly a chance for me to get the Eblade rolling without breaking up a different gun. Plus, despite all of that, I do like the body milling. Thanks!

[Ecapnation]

superbolts have terrible tolerance issues specifically in the lower tube, i.e valve. Many would leak from the factory cause the tolerances were so bad the valve wouldn't seal. I've had the best luck in the past with an obnoxious amount of dow55 on the valve o-ring and leave it be. Plus they used the crappiest Chineseium you could make a marker out of. It's your money, but There's not much value in these and respect on the second hand market should you want to sell it.

Bingo.

It's not that it isn't standard it's that the build quality is so low regular parts won't work/fit

[nicmauro]

Haha, noted. So far it has been fine and it's really just a for fun build so if it ever becomes a headache I'll just pull it apart and try to sell the bits and pieces 😂

[The Inflicted]

My old Superbolt didn't seem particular about which valve I used with it. I stuck with the stock valve, though I did bore it out the exhaust port and tried shaving down a spare valvestem with an electric drill and a dremel. No idea is that made any difference.

You can replace the bolt with a normal post-2K bolt as long as you also use a normal backblock. This will, however, look very odd because so much of the bolt will be exposed at the back of the gun.

I never got around to doing it myself, but if you get fed up with the twistlock mechanism of the stock bolt you could always drill out the bolt AND the stock backblock and then retain the bolt with a normal pin.

Not my gun, but:

[Jordan]

My Superbolt isn't machined correctly and the end of the barrel stops 3/16" away from the breech, so there's a gap between where the bolt stops and the barrel begins.

I've also run into the valve issue.

I tossed it in a box years ago and occasionally find it back when I'm looking for something else... and it stays right where it is. They're junk (and coming from someone who loves Rainmakers, that's saying something 🙂).

[nicmauro]

Haha, I totally get it but honestly, mine hasn't given me any issues beyond the old cup seal. I actually put it all together and it just worked. Granted, I'm not using any of the original pneumatics or trigger frame 😂

[PlawB]

I used the valve out of the superbolt on two different autocockers and it worked fine. I'm surprised it doesn't work in the reverse.

[nicmauro]

I think that both of the ones that didn't fit are just a little wider and/or stick out a little further in the front. I didn't do a side by side but I think that the valve stop milling is maybe just a little thicker than most bodies so they are catching when it steps down to the smaller bore. A stock WGP went in fine. I may attack it with the drill press at some point 😂

[nicmauro]

Taking her out for a trial run tomorrow!