Grease in cockers?

[SR_matt]

This may be opening up a can of worms to ask, but since when are people using grease in cockers? I was always of the understanding you put some oil in the asa and shoot it through but yesterday is aw Angry greasing everything and it seems like he never shoots oil through the markers even when they are running the AKA regs that explicitly call for oil to be shot through (but I didn't clarify that part so maybe I am mis understanding).

Is greasing pneumatics common now or do most just still shoot oil through and call it good?

[Blackmagic71]

Oil has worked for years for me, so I don’t feel any need to change.

Normally I just shoot a couple drops of oil through, then wipe down the bolt and oil the bolt orings (if it has any). Seems to work fine. 🤷♂️

Years ago I saw either an Eclipse or Techt video about applying some HHS Wurth spray lubricant to hammers, so I picked up a can and do a very light coating on the hammer if I have it out for some reason.

[Grendel]

Air tool oil is what I use. I know back in the day (early 90s) I knew some heavy cocker users using grease on their bolts with minimal o-rings to reduce drag. With what our pneumatics are and how they work I do not see a reason that you can not use greases instead of air tool oil. The only iffy part is getting the right amount/viscosity on seals/o-rings that have a lot of movement associated.

[Daltech]

It’s called stainless not stainproof.

Pnuematic oil for seals and Dow 33/your flavor of choice for rings. Keep your salty greasy fingers off the unfinished surfaces! 👈 It also depends on how much disassembly you’re willing to take on and retiming if you’re confident.

To be honest I’ve gone 2 years without touching anything oil wise until the LPR seal jellified and my hoses all blew on an all stock 2k2 cocker. I learned the stock LpR is adjustable and rebuildable. Pretty sweet.

[Grendel]

??? Stainless ???? non sequitur?

[Daltech]

Oil the steel, don’t let it rust, I’m self admittedly not all here at the moment. On work hour 60~something for this week.

[dano_____]

If you use grease on your ringed items then stick with grease. Oil after grease just washes away the grease and then you have to keep oiling. I have had the best luck with seals lasting longer greased than oiled for the small movement items like regulators and lprs. 3-ways to me have always liked oil more which makes sense because they are far smaller surfaces and sticktion is a concern.

[Pyrate Jim]

Pre 2k, WORR recommended using Vaseline on the bolt and hammer and a few drops of oil in the ASA.

[Daltech]

Pre 2k, WORR recommended using Vaseline on the bolt and hammer and a few drops of oil in the ASA.

“She uses Vaaaaaassssseline”

[Trbo323]

I rebuild with grease but then shoot oil through as a normal lube cycle.

I'm also in the Pacific Northwest, temperature and humidity are a little different up here than a lot of other places so I always take what the companies say to use with a grain of salt.

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[Jsc5150]

You can do dow33 grease on pretty much all cocker orings.

Or use oil, they aren’t picky

[Hellion360]

Just don't grease your hammer and you are good to go.

[Hellion360]

Funny how many lower tubes I have opened that have gobs of grease on the hammer.

[SR_matt]

My new build has a JC hammer going into it. Gota love self lubricating delrin

[imped4now]

The only location that I use grease (and one of the very few sensible locations) are the ram switch seals. In my case, I always run X-Rings (Inception rams, so they're easily accessible) and place grease in the X valley. That essentially provides a lifetime maintenance-free part.

On that note, I run X-Rings in all ram switch locations for stacked tube poppets - LVs, G6R's, etc, and have for many years.

[imped4now]

Assuming your ram piston utilizes a 010 sail and it's accessible, yes.

[Psycho91]

Thanks, I just have stock wgp rams

[latches109]

017 xring was stock for gen-e matrix bolt. I had to replace plenty of those, wouldn’t call them lifetime maintenance free. Some would accumulate dirt and debris in the valley and scratch the bolt.

[Jivesauce]

I switched to using grease on the pneumatics many years back. It seems to stay in place longer, and I’ll still put a couple drops of oil through it occasionally. I know people have expressed concerns of that creating a slurry that gums things up, but I’ve seen no evidence of any issue when disassembling parts for service later.

Many of the respected builders I watch use grease, and every pneumatic component I’ve purchased new in the last few years has come with grease on it, so I don’t think it’s too outrageous to do. The only thing that concerns me is that I see a lot of builders using Slickoleum, or a private label variant of that. Slickoleum is petroleum based, so I’m not sure what happens if silicone marker oil gets mixed in with that.

[SR_matt]

I switched to using grease on the pneumatics many years back. It seems to stay in place longer, and I’ll still put a couple drops of oil through it occasionally. I know people have expressed concerns of that creating a slurry that gums things up, but I’ve seen no evidence of any issue when disassembling parts for service later.

Many of the respected builders I watch use grease, and every pneumatic component I’ve purchased new in the last few years has come with grease on it, so I don’t think it’s too outrageous to do. The only thing that concerns me is that I see a lot of builders using Slickoleum, or a private label variant of that. Slickoleum is petroleum based, so I’m not sure what happens if silicone marker oil gets mixed in with that.

hmm didnt realize slickoleum is petrol based, makes me wonder if its similar to slide glide used on firearms (when ive seen angry using his "goat spit" which he said is white labeled for hm) it sure looked a whole lot like slide glide... granted red and translucent isnt exactly unique.

at the end of the day I guess as long as there is lubricant on the dynamic seals, and just enough on static seals to keep them moist that it doest really matter. Im sure there is some minuscule difference in performance between oil and grease but neither may be "right (I would assume oil will move with less resistance and thus ever so slightly faster, but will blow out faster).

Granted I was always the guy that put a couple drops in my marker at the start of every day so in that case I doubt anything ver ran dry... and if anything I may have ran too wet.

[latches109]

I switched to Dow 33 light greases in the early 2000s on pneumatics and hpr. Sticks better with less leaking issues. I use palmers / gold cup oil on the hammer and bolt orings.