Halo Too Questions

[nicmauro]

Having played a lot in the late 90's through early 2000's and then just recently coming back I missed out on a wide chunk of gear and have questions. I am looking to switch out a Dye Rotor R2 as I have had numerous jamming issues with it. Maybe I just got a lemon but I have adjusted tension, batteries, cleaned, etc. and it just seems to have problems.

I was leaning towards picking up a Spire IR2 but then I saw the Halo Too and being a fan of Halos am intrigued. Most of the guns I would use this on are older, uncapped semi electros, some without eyes so I like that it is forcefed and a bit faster than newer stuff. It also looks slightly improved (tool-less battery door, new electronics). That said, what I can't quite tell is if the shell is improved over the older models? Is it still the brittle polycarbonate that cracks if you bump it wrong? I am specifically looking at the solid black or live ones that look like the more flexible plastics used now, not the see through ones. Also, any general thoughts?

I am familiar with the basic issues with a Halo like weight, weak backplates, etc. I also had a Reloader B back in the day and am familiar with the sound activated feature of these and never had a problem before although it is not my personal favorite.

Honestly, I'm leaning towards just getting a Spire but I do like having a (semi) period correct hopper on my old guns 😂

[DarkApollo]

I just replaced the shell on mine. They redesigned it to be better than the old ones. I believe it is ABS now.

[Jonnydread]

Disclaimer: I rarely use hoppers.

I have had a couple of the Empire Halo variants throughout the years and the shells always seemed a bit more robust than the original Odyssey ones. That said, the only fail points I've personally experienced with Halos have been the battery door and/or lid.

[DieManInTheRough]

Is it a giant brick? Yes.

Does it break down without tools? No.

Is it the only thing that will keep up with RT/Full auto. Yes.

The things just work, they don't blow apart if you fall, and they don't cost an arm and a leg for tech that is decades old at this point.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Only down side is the battery consumption. Newer hoppers are much nicer on batteries. I have a couple original Dye Rotors and they have been great. Using AA batteries is way nicer as I always have some on hand. I still have a bunch of Halos and Eggies as well, but I don’t use electro hoppers much, only in my fast mechs.

[Shan1Fat]

When I got back into playing a few years back I scooped up a Spire IV and quickly learned that I was able to easily outshoot it. Switched to an R2 and haven't had any trouble since. I am a period correct nerd as well, so I use a Halo 2 on my DM3 because anything else looks wrong.

[nicmauro]

Yeah, I should love (well, at least like!) the R2, I just keep having major jamming issues and I can't figure out why. The last time I had to take the whole thing apart, clean it and then it magically started working even though I couldn't find anything actually wrong other than it had jammed while playing. I might give it one more shot but it has gone down mid game at least 3 times now. And honestly, every time I take it apart I feel like I am gonna snap one of the clips or similar

[Daltech]

Sell it on eBay in a lot with other paintball trinkets and goodies from your junk drawer. Put that cash into something that pays off, not pains in the arrss.

[Shan1Fat]

I curse every time I have to replace the batteries so I get the frustration. Some of the dudes around here will tell you to get the cheaper LTR version and back off the tension a little. I've not personally owned one to be able to tell you if there's a massive difference or not.

[Daltech]

The Ir2 spire just works. It tops out at 12-14 tops BPS. I’ve never had it not work except when running low on batts. It’s simple, cleans up easy and uses interchangeable parts that are readily available.

I have a revy view loader for my Autococker to keep it period correct.

On space guns I use the Spire ir2. No ramp inside the hopper the make the balls in the front fall back and no speed feed. Funny my freinds that all have the ramp and the speed feed and it makes zero difference because I pay attention to when my balls get low and time refill accordingly. But the flip top lid with a little practice is every bit as fast outside of NXL and NPPL. To compete at that level you need everything maxed out.

When I get picked up on SC Ironmen for D1 and Pro I’ll upgrade to something that shoots above 14 BPS. Until then, having a lower BPS isn’t holding me back at all in walk on rec ball.

I’ve heard more than one person say the DYE Rotor hoppers and junk. To be honest the spire isn’t that much better, but it’s been good enough for 4 seasons without needing to be replaced or needing something faster. Can I outshoot the sprire IR2, yeah, does it matter? No.

The Spire IR2 250 is lit. You can just take off the dome shell and put it on your regular ir2.

[Daltech]

If you get an empire ax mini gs and a halo hopper your field owner will love you because you’ll go through at least 3 cases a day.

[iamthelazerviking]

I'd vote IR2 or Dye LTR but since you have had issues with a Rotor, IR2 is hard to beat. They're available used for 50-60, tool-less disassembly, all that good stuff. Can swap between rain lid and speed feed super easily. Not super heavy.

[nicmauro]

Ya know, I saw a few for 50 to 60 and then when I went looking it kind of dried up. But also, I want the tan shell so I'm cheap and picky 😂