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Putting my cocker together what to locktite

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    Putting my cocker together what to locktite

    Ok guys so I'm finally at the point of getting my cocker put together, what should I locktite in place, any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated as well

    #2
    Red on any thread. Tell it you mean business. Lock that timing in. Lock those hose barbs in. (/s apparently I need to say that)

    I really only blue locktite on the pump arm to back block and on the barb threads. Everything else shouldnt need it.

    for those who didnt catch the ‘tell it you mean business’ line indicating it was sarcasm; the first statement was tongue in cheek.
    Last edited by DarkApollo; 11-13-2024, 01:15 PM.

    Comment


    • Psycho91

      Psycho91

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Deffinatly no red you've lost your mind 😂

    • DarkApollo
      DarkApollo commented
      Editing a comment
      I had hoped the second part of my comment would imply the first part was tongue n cheek.

    • Psycho91

      Psycho91

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah after a reread it lol

    #3
    With the exceptions of barbs on the pneumatics and maybe the LPR into the front block/the plug at the bottom of the front block, I don't think I ever loctited anything in place for any cocker I owned. If there was anything I did do, it was buy/install a valve jam nut with the oring on/in it:

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    Curious to know what others do/did/have done, though!

    -Mike

    Comment


    • iamthelazerviking
      iamthelazerviking commented
      Editing a comment
      I put these in every build. And they're so cheap!

    #4
    I would blue loctite the ram to pump arm for sure. / doesn't hurt to do back block either to pump arm but one side definitely needs to be done

    all your macro fittings should be loctite to asa and hpr and your hex plugs in front block and asa / hpr

    LPR to front block / and barbs into pneumatics if not red heat applied treated coating like inception pnues have

    those are main things.

    Comment


      #5
      frame adjustment screws if they dont already have some blue on them

      Comment


      • Psycho91

        Psycho91

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Its a mozak frame so I have no idea if he uses locktite or not

      #6
      Don't use red, damn man. If you red lock tight one of the barbs in, if that barb ever snaps off it is going to be an absolute bitch to get the remainder out of the 3 way.

      Blue, on most things really. I can't really think of any threads on a cocker that blue lock tight would be a bad idea

      Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

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      Comment


        #7
        vibratite also a great product

        Comment


          #8
          Red lock tite easily comes off with a soldering iron used to heat the male side of the threading. I’m not saying turn it into a cherry sunday, but within reason it easily comes off when using the correct heat and method.

          I swear I learn more about how not to use tools on this forum than I do about paintball.

          I used blue locktite on my hammer lug and trigger frame grub screws and it doesn’t even lock the thread. I’m still playing around with my timing and preferred tuning in addition to completely rebuilding all seals per Docfire,
          before I red lock everything.

          I rebuilt the LPR, HPR, now I need to do the Ram and 3-Way before I lock it all down.

          ( loose back block ram arm, loose 3-way)

          Comment


            #9
            Should I let the locktite sit for a few hours or overnight before screwing things together

            Comment


            • Daltech

              Daltech

              commented
              Editing a comment
              This could have been my problem with the blue, I let it cure for maybe 15 mins then went to adjust. Perhaps I waited to long and broke the bonding, but I’m also going to look into this vibratite stuff.

              If you know your adjustments, I’d say make them right away after applying, then let cure overnight. Remember, about a toothpicks drops worth is all that’s needed. Less if only a Ram/3-way barb.

            • DarkApollo
              DarkApollo commented
              Editing a comment
              No. It depends on the type. Some are anaerobic. It has to be screwed together and allowed to cure. The tube should tell you.

            #10
            Trbo323 We all want to be like Palmers and use red lock tite for everything!! LMAO
            My Feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...ers-s-feedback

            Comment


              #11
              Put it together and shoot it until something comes loose. Use a little blue loctite or similar low strength stuff on whatever came loose. Rinse and repeat.

              Comment


                #12
                Originally posted by Psycho91 View Post
                Should I let the locktite sit for a few hours or overnight before screwing things together
                No, if it cures it will likely come off when you install

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                Comment


                  #13
                  Ok guys any tips on getting the aggravating oring out the base of a ram, I'm about to loose my shit lol

                  Comment


                  • jetenginekyle

                    jetenginekyle

                    commented
                    Editing a comment
                    pointy tweezers should work

                  • Psycho91

                    Psycho91

                    commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Ordered some actual dental picks, I think mine are just to big

                  #14
                  What about ram and switch onto the front block?

                  Comment


                    #15
                    I don't think I have before, but I understand the desire. I would be very hesitent to use blue though, especially on the 3way. Low strength purple would be my recommendation.

                    Comment

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