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Best way to fix a Carter sniper with stacked tolerances

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    Best way to fix a Carter sniper with stacked tolerances

    My brother has had this Carter sniper for a few years and everytime he brings it out for the few times a year he plays it’s always performing horribly. Finally he let me take it home to look at it and what a mess.

    off the bat it’s slightly midgited but not to the point that it needs custom length springs. The valve slightly over travels maybe an 1/16 past the proper position for the valve retaining screw position when the valve nut is tightened. Everything seals and the gun cocks and shoots.

    now for the really bad. The body isn’t milled to standard half block specs. The back of the top tube is cut at a slight angle so it’s not completely flush with the sled,The slot it cut too short.The top tube is slightly too long in combination with the sled having too much material in front makes it so the bolt barely closes flush with the end of the feedneck. The ball doesn’t even load into the barrel it sits in the breech on a close bolt causes a ton of blow by around the bolt and also launching the ball right into the bore sizers which causes constant barrel breaks or hook shots. The bolt has no orings and possibly bored out too much to add them but maybe thinner orings will work , it also has a huge transfer port for no reason other than I think to not deal with actually lining up the holes properly. Of course it’s all match anodized a satin black which I’m sure wont be easy to match plus if anything in the body has to be cut it’s going to be raw.

    If anyone can brainstorm and think of the least intrusive and least expensive way to fix this if possible. I would like to think a proper length sled would get the bolt to the proper position so I can use the Carter bolt and keep the aesthetic and most of the original parts. The only issue being that the original holes for the bolt pin might be too close to the edge of the new sled. So it would have to be redrilled for a vertical pin

    im thinking worse case scenario, cut to standard half lock specs, new sled and bolt w/ orings and standard specs, and possibly and 11/16 bore, not that the lower tube is a priority at this point. I just want it to be usable

    #2
    Late model Carter's are a trip....

    I bought his sterling based "hybrid" pump and oof nightmare

    A few ideas....

    - Get a custom bolt made with a longer nose
    - Have some one bore the body out for the valve misalignment

    Also might be entirely conjecture but I think he was using body's dye rejected... The tribal flame Carter I have has some weird stuff going on.
    ​​

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      #3
      If it was something I truly wanted to keep and had no problem putting money into, I would just send it to one of the trusted machinists and say "fix it" and let them do whatever is needed (if possible) to make it right.
      Feedback 3.0

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      • Ecapnation

        Ecapnation

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Agreed...

      #4
      Seems like the simple solution is a custom bolt.
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      • Socalpumpballer
        Socalpumpballer commented
        Editing a comment
        The only issue with just doing the bolt is that just making a longer one would mean it wouldn’t cock far enough back with the current sled and body slot to load a ball. Right now it cocks just enough to load a ball with the short Bolt

      #5
      Can the sled be turned around? It looks like that would move the bolt slightly forward, if the "mushroom" end doesn't stop it.

      But yeah... machinist-level problems.
      Feedback
      www.PhrameworkDesigns.com < Nelspot sears and triggers back in stock! Also Sterling feeds, Empire feedneck adapters, and some upcoming projects.

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        #6
        Ouch tbh hang it on a wall or be prepared to hand a machinist $1000 plus probably to fix this, machinist aren't cheap especially good ones, remember ecap charges $150 an hour for his services

        Comment


          #7
          Originally posted by flyweightnate View Post
          Can the sled be turned around? It looks like that would move the bolt slightly forward, if the "mushroom" end doesn't stop it.

          But yeah... machinist-level problems.
          im thinking take the bulk of the material off the front of the sled and take a hair off the back of the top tube. It should at least get the ball into the barrel, seal the breach more and not change any of the cocking geometry

          Comment


          • Ecapnation

            Ecapnation

            commented
            Editing a comment
            That could work.... Carter did tend to eyeball things a bit.... You should see the ion beech he attempted to make that I have.

          #8
          A thousand bucks? I could build the whole gun almost from scratch for a thousand bucks.

          It sounds like it needs three things: Either a custom valve body, slightly lengthened from typical 9/16" specs, or just bored out for an 11/16" valve. The cocking pin slot needs to be lengthened, and a new bolt made.

          Those don't sound like $300-plus-each jobs to me.

          Doc.
          Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
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          Comment


            #9
            Halfblock often need some adjustment here and there to make them work with a hammer, hammer lug, frame and body combination.

            Had a similar issue with mine

            Longer bolt look to be needed in this case (either a new longer bolt or a shorter sled)

            If you go with a longer bolt and have issue clearing the breech you can try either
            - a shocktech cone hammer lug, allow your bolt to go a little further
            High quality Shocktech hammer lugs.  1/4x28 hardened lug Available shapes in: Coned (1/4x28 hardened lug) Round (1/4x28 hardened lug) NOTE:  Shocktech USA cannot guarantee fitment and or performance in any other manufacture bodies.  Nor can we offer tech advice on how to make it work in your situation do to the amount

            - or you could have a hammer with a shorter groove (need to check your current hammer on a valve without shaft if it will travel long enough foward to touch the valve/retaining nut first (it's probably just 20$ to have a stock WGP one done)

            You could check different valve too, some are slightly longer than other, depending on how off your current one is
            Last edited by Alexndl; Yesterday, 06:44 PM.
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