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9.6v Batteries

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    9.6v Batteries

    This might be a basic question but I don't have a good place to put this one...

    So 9.6v NiMh batteries that were all the rage for clappernoid eFrames many years ago are still a necessary evil for those of us that like the clacky nostalgia. I know that most of them have a steep discharge rate if you use a standard duracell and the like. No issues there. Just use the right battery for my eFrames.

    The real question is this:
    Can I use one of those in one of these modern day spaceguns? Is there overvolt protection? Is .6v a non-issue? Is this like bluechew for my Mini GS?
    Fred aka ChoSanJuan
    Team: With Intent
    Paintball parts and 3D Printed items!
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    #2
    A fresh 9v is around 9.6v out of the package. A 9.6v NiMH has a nominal voltage of 9.6v, but a fully charged voltage of around 11.2~11.6v. Probably a bit risky for some things. Maybe a 8.4v NiMH (in 9v battery package) would be better, as that fully charged will be 9.8~10.15v, and thus less risky. A 7.2v NiMH (in 9v battery package) will be 8.4~8.7v fully charged, and likely lower than you'd need.
    I can haz feedback?
    If I owe you feedback, just remind me, as I sometimes forget.

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      #3
      Regardless of what kind of noid you have there is always going to be an linear regulator that takes at least 12V and drops it down to 5V or 3.3V to run the microcontroller on the board. There will also be an nmos Fet that is used to switch the solenoids on and off. Fets have a maximum voltage, VDSmax, that they can handle before they internally arc and die. Which ever of these 2 devices has the lower voltage max is what likely determines what is safe to use. These chips are almost always going to be the 2nd and 3rd largest parts on a board after the microcontroller (and connectors/bluetooth module on some of the new fancy stuff). These often have the part number on them so you can google the data sheet. Anything under 12v is unlikely and some stuff can do 20v.

      Solenoids will engage more rapidly with higher voltages so big voltage bumps will mean you need to reduce your dwell. Not doing so will run more current through the coil and burn it up faster. The heat cycling will break down the internal lamination that separates coil windings. Once they start shorting then your coil will be just a dead short before long.

      Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk


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