Electronic Nitro Duck Autococker
Here's a short video clip of my functional Electronic Nitro Duck Autococker. It's been a quite a journey to get this thing running again, and there is almost no info about how it works that's out there so here's a post with some details if anyone finds themselves trying to get one running again. Big shout out to my local shop Creative Pursuit Games and the community the have built that has helped me along the way.
At the chrono video https://youtu.be/5Ppdb-CsB9c
As far as know, based on a relayed conversation from Mark Davis (between him and Bud Orr) this is the first system to electrify an autococker. It uses two always off solenoids from Clippard (PN: CS-2271) that each require 1.2volts to operate at up to 100 psig.
The solenoids are triggered via a microswitch (originally a cherry microswitch). The pins that hold the switch in place had been sheered off so I needed to replace it. These from ZF are a very close match ( https://switches-sensors.zf.com/prod...bminiature-dk/ ) I was able to find several very similar on ebay. When the switch is triggered both solenoids activate at once. This is to replace the function of the 3/4 way valve. If you happen to be setting one these up there is a trigger travel liming screw in the grip that must be set to ensure that you don't sheer off the pins that hold the switch in place from over pressing the trigger. ( It's probably clear that learned this the hard way) It is also worth noting that the switch needs to be wired up so that the circuit completes when the switch is closed. One wire to the common (green in the image) and one wire to the normally open pole on the switch.
Since both solenoids need to actuate at the same time it needs at least 3volts. Batteries have come a long way since '98 and I ordered up a couple of 3.7v Lipos from amazon and used one of the charging USBs as a sacrifice for the connector.
The front block's internal milling is such that it does not need the usual banjo bolt but whatever goes in place of the bajo bolt must accept an LPR. AKA makes a pre-2k volumizer that has a 1/8npt hex plug on the end which can be removed and any 1/8 npt LPR can then be screwed on the end. ( https://akapaintball.com/products/cl...mitemax-nickel )
The last "special" part is a tee hose barb for the LPR ( https://www.fittings.space/hb33m-02-u03x32m-02 )
I am sure I've missed some details, reach out and I will update this post.
Enjoy!
At the chrono video https://youtu.be/5Ppdb-CsB9c
As far as know, based on a relayed conversation from Mark Davis (between him and Bud Orr) this is the first system to electrify an autococker. It uses two always off solenoids from Clippard (PN: CS-2271) that each require 1.2volts to operate at up to 100 psig.
The solenoids are triggered via a microswitch (originally a cherry microswitch). The pins that hold the switch in place had been sheered off so I needed to replace it. These from ZF are a very close match ( https://switches-sensors.zf.com/prod...bminiature-dk/ ) I was able to find several very similar on ebay. When the switch is triggered both solenoids activate at once. This is to replace the function of the 3/4 way valve. If you happen to be setting one these up there is a trigger travel liming screw in the grip that must be set to ensure that you don't sheer off the pins that hold the switch in place from over pressing the trigger. ( It's probably clear that learned this the hard way) It is also worth noting that the switch needs to be wired up so that the circuit completes when the switch is closed. One wire to the common (green in the image) and one wire to the normally open pole on the switch.
Since both solenoids need to actuate at the same time it needs at least 3volts. Batteries have come a long way since '98 and I ordered up a couple of 3.7v Lipos from amazon and used one of the charging USBs as a sacrifice for the connector.
The front block's internal milling is such that it does not need the usual banjo bolt but whatever goes in place of the bajo bolt must accept an LPR. AKA makes a pre-2k volumizer that has a 1/8npt hex plug on the end which can be removed and any 1/8 npt LPR can then be screwed on the end. ( https://akapaintball.com/products/cl...mitemax-nickel )
The last "special" part is a tee hose barb for the LPR ( https://www.fittings.space/hb33m-02-u03x32m-02 )
I am sure I've missed some details, reach out and I will update this post.
Enjoy!
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