I saw someone run an og angel on a siphon tank. We kept telling her not to but it ran all day… doubt it continued working long after that but I have no idea.
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I didn't even consider the powdercoat/cerakote baking to anneal the CO2 tank, so I absolutely won't be using a baked coating. Thanks for that! Might just go with a good single stage paint, I'll have to bust out the old HVLP kit. I used to paint aircraft gearboxes so the DuPont single stage stuff would hold up extremely well. I'd shoot it on whatever I could find with the leftover paint.Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
That considered, I know HPA aluminum tanks are thicker, but would a baked coating affect them the same? Curious, because I did have one coated and I did fill it once already. Luckily the regulator to tank packing wasn't good enough and it slowly leaked out, so I can either re-test it or just leave it be. They're so cheap anyway it wouldn't hurt my feelings to junk it.Comment
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Realistically, 150F for H-series Cerakote isn't really much hotter than leaving your Co2 tank in the truck of your car on a summer day, and if it really bothers you the C-series air cured Cerakote is available. There are absolutely some coatings that are baked at very high temps that you can't really use, but between the H and C series the vast majority of colors are available.Originally posted by Zone Drifter View Post
There are also epoxy based coatings like Duracoat that are air cured, and while a bit less durable than cerakote are a fair bit easier to remove if that is something you are interested in.Comment
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I have vivid memories of CO2 bottles rocketing across the parking lot on hot summer day at SC Village. -
Oh sure. Anything under 200F is probably fine. It's just, as I said, sneaking toward 250-300 is, in my opinion, dangerously close. The big concern is hot spots in the oven or other heat source- the overall temperature might be 250F, but the part closest to the heating element might be 450F or more.
The big takeaway here, as with many things, is exercise caution. A burst disc or length of macroline blowing out is generally no big deal. A tank rupturing is a good way to get maimed or killed.
Doc.
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I imagine a tank set up similar to this would be as good or better than a siphon style tank. This literally pours liquid co2 into the gun. It took about .25seconds for the Co2 rated enmey to start freezing over and that was before I even took a shot lol.Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
-"Drain" was not necessarily the right word to use, but still very much applies.
If that straw were full of a liquid that literally boiled from the heat of your thumb, it doesn't matter if the liquid "drains" out or is forced out by the expansion of the gas at the top of the straw.
You're right in that it shouldn't happen as fast as Myrkul describes, but it does happen- and as noted, the warmer the weather, the faster it occurs.
(And yes, I've done the same thing with clear macroline.
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Doc.Comment
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A little late to the post here but why hydro a tank when you can get a new 20oz for less than hydro costs?
From what I am gathering you just want it for display purposes so if the cerakote or powder coat is the look you want you could always drill the tank in the bottom to prevent it from being filled
I do miss co2 in specific situations, especially for my sniper 2 pump. I have a horizontal palmers stab on it with a gas’s through grip. Back in the 00s I had it at +/- 1fps and could play all day with a 12oz tank and still have some gas left. Now a 17/4500 tank is maybe 300 shots if I can get a true 4500 fill and the velocity was all over the place (not sure if this was a plant issue or the reg needing to break in after a rebuild).
To the original questions around things being necessary, it really is an “it depends” expansion chambers were great to prevent liquid getting to the valve, same with anti siphon tubes. But if the marker could be regulated then a palmers stab can handle most of it (back to my pump I could bro get any pressure spikes from dumping liquid in vs only feeding gaseous co2 in, but it was also operating at 220 psi so the reg was stepping it down a lot and to a pressure that it has to be unnaturally cold to get liquid co2).
At the end of the day co2 is pretty much dead or on its way out for most places at best. Sucks for the guns that it really was ideal on but it’s just not cost effective for most fields any more. BUT if it’s something that you really need/want you could always get a tank from a gas supply store and fill your own and then just show up with prefilled tanks to the field. Most fields won’t let you fill your own tanks on site but they won’t be able to say much if you show up with prefilled tanks.Comment
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For those that are trying to maximize co2 by using either a siphon, or anti-siphon, buying new tanks is a hassle. To often, they locktite the valves, even though they are not supposed to, and many valves are cut in such a way that siphons and anti-siphons do not work. Not deal breakers, but an extra headache for sure.A little late to the post here but why hydro a tank when you can get a new 20oz for less than hydro costs?
And I also have a bunch of splash annodized tanks... which you can no longer buy, so I have no choice but to rehydro over and over again. Sure, you could buy new and have a new splash done.... but... again, another headache.
But you right, more and more fields have stopped supporting co2. Mostly because it lessons the hassle of hot guns in the afternoon, and frozen guns when cold. and endless chopping orings.
Not progress, but I can see why fields do itComment
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I can get the ano’ed co2 reasoning (granted at this point I assume most of them are getting close to their last days).Originally posted by Hp_lovecraft View PostComment
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-Generally speaking, CO2 tanks can keep being used as long as they keep passing hydro. There's no ultimate time limit like there is on most composite tanks.Originally posted by SR_matt View Post
There are, point in fact, still welding tanks out there, in circulation, with WW2 and even Nazi proofmarks on them. The US brought thousands of tons of them back after WW2, and as long as the tank still passes hydro, you can keep using it.
I have a 15lb CO2 fire extinguisher, where the first hydro mark is 1944.
Doc.
Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
Paintball in the Movies!Comment
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For what ever reason I always forget that the metal tanks have a longer life. Granted with the basic co2 tanks it was always cheaper to just replace them at lest in the 00s unless you had a weird size/shape…Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
Too bad I trashed my 12 oz sure this year but I do have a 31 year old 9oz I could probably hydro if I ever found co2 fills (or just got a tank my self).
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Holy cow, I found it!Originally posted by The Inflicted View Post
Was backing up some very old pictures from DVD-ROMs I had kept and ran across it.
Welcome to 2005!
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That odyssey test is cool, thanks for posting!Comment
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The funny part about this is that in the Odyssey O2 manual, it says that "any liquid co2 will void warranty".Michael Spurlock once posted of an Odyssey O2 or some similar Spyder-bodied FASOR that had no LPR and used one of those clapper-solenoid 3-way valves
With proper venting, I'm sure most paintguns could be made to run co2 well.Comment
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oh I am fully convinced that the majority of modern markers would work totally fine on food grade co2 with a proper reg (like a stabilizer). the main two things we just have to avoid is freezing and the dirt we had in industrial co2 we always used. Start with clean co2 and keep the pressure low enough to not ever have liquid or solid CO2 in the system and theres no reason that there should be a problem. sure you could never get an X valve mag to reach a high ROF with co2 just due to the pressures but any of the modern spool valves for sure are in the 160-220psi range. If I can read thee phase diagrams correctly, you really cant have liquid cos at that pressure above something like -30*C. you could probably even get away with much higher pressures unless you are playing in the winter.Originally posted by Hp_lovecraft View PostComment
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Early guns like Vectors and Typhoons could run liquid. They were both designed with robust venting regulators that would boil off any liquid co2 that made it past the regulator to keep the pressure at acceptable levels.oh I am fully convinced that the majority of modern markers would work totally fine on food grade co2 with a proper reg (like a stabilizer). the main two things we just have to avoid is freezing and the dirt we had in industrial co2 we always used
So the know-how is there. But the industry got pretty spooked at how the early mags and cockers failed with co2, and pushed hard to get nitrogen (and later HPA) into the market
Liquid support officianlly ended when Tippmann switched from the Model-98 to the 98-Custom.Comment
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Yeah when first go into the sport in 01 I remember people talking about syphon tanks to specifically pull liquid but no one was really running those markers anymore around me at least.Originally posted by Hp_lovecraft View Post
Granted I do understand people getting spooked between the pressures on a lot of markers then being higher and just how dirty co2 was. Even as someone that rocked co2 on my pump guns happily I did side eye the trilllgy pretty hard when they said it could run on co2.
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