Automag issues

[Macdave06]

I bought this ULE body and DYE frame a couple weeks ago and swapped parts from another classic mag. Took it to the field yesterday and with this set up for some reason it started acting up. Worked perfectly fine on the classic I pulled the valve and rail from.
I tried 2 different classic sears. The larger one that was in this and the slimmed down later version. Neither wanted to catch the bolt more than a couple shots. After parts swapping one thing at a time I was able to determine that the DYE frame is the culprit.

Do I need to adjust the trigger rod or something with the dye frame?

Also after all that I ended up chopping quite a bit, but I think that's due to the fact that the ANS bolt is missing the foamie and the paint is rolling back too much. Has anyone tried gluing an o-ring to give the bolt a little more length?

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[superman]

pretty much any aftermarket frame you will need to adjust the sear. very few companies stuck to agd specs.

[Macdave06]

Any ball park on how I should start adjusting?

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[superman]

It should have a credit card gap from the back of the trigger to the front of the sear rod when aired up.

[Macdave06]

You the man(or whatever gender you identify as), superman.

What about the rollbacks?

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[Alexndl]

BW stand for Bearded Work... might give a clue
You can also find some of his video on youtube

https://youtu.be/T9S8jn0acXs

Always fun to see cool gun shooting

superman, you should do a video on tech tip for sear rod adjustment, might be better than the VHS video currently available on youtube for automag

I would also be interested by tech tip video on how to tune a level 10

[superman]

Haha, male for sure.
Generally I use a level 10, but for level 7 bolts I prefer the agd foamie. It tends to have the ball sit similarly.


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[Jordan]

If you have one, a Spyder detent glued/trimmed to length in place where the foamie should go will work... or cut a new foamie out of neoprene/dense foam.

Otherwise, buy a longnose version of the stock lvl7 AGD bolt - short of upgrading to a lvl10, its the best bolt available for a Mag, and I run one in every Classic I own.

[Headshotted]

Neoprene foam like mousepad material? I had zero issues with my mag in warmer weather, turns out it has a l7 in it, but new paint once it dropped sub 50* would not get through a pod without chopping a few. I was considering making a foamie tip was but I didn't know what the size specs were.

[Jordan]

The foamie on my lvlX kit feels like mousepad material to me. Worth the experiment at least.

Keep in mind chops and barrel breaks are different... the foamie or long nose prevent rollback, which will help with stack clipping, but a properly adjusted detent and an overbore goes a long way with Mags, too. I usually run a .689 barrel regardless of ball size.

[Macdave06]

If you have one, a Spyder detent glued/trimmed to length in place where the foamie should go will work... or cut a new foamie out of neoprene/dense foam.

Otherwise, buy a longnose version of the stock lvl7 AGD bolt - short of upgrading to a lvl10, its the best bolt available for a Mag, and I run one in every Classic I own.

I may have some actually. I have to look through my mag parts too. Because I thought I had one with a foamie on it. I also have an agd bolt that may be the long version you're referring to. The center comes out past the bolt face.

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[Jordan]

I prefer the long nose over a foamie, plus they help lower blowback slightly as well.

Personal preference, really.

[Macdave06]

Haha, male for sure.
Generally I use a level 10, but for level 7 bolts I prefer the agd foamie. It tends to have the ball sit similarly.


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I'll probably eventually go to a level 10 or even an x valve. But prices are a little crazy at the moment

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[tunaman5]

Not all Dye frames were created equal. Some of these frames needed to be hogged out so the sear rides correctly. Take the frame, sear and rail with bushing installed and see how it operates. If it rubs you need to do some work.