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Classic valves vs RT pro and Xvalves

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    Classic valves vs RT pro and Xvalves

    Hey all is the outside diameter on classic valves different that of RT Pro and Xvalves.

    Putting together my shockwave. I thought you know what it be cool to have a classic cerakote to match the other pieces I am getting done.

    The 4 classic valves I tried will not go into the body. Only one goes all the way with a little bit of force. The others not even half way in before it feels that you got put some serious force to get in and likely get it out.
    FredMnkyDad10 Feedback

    #2
    I don't think it is supposed to be different. AGD is big on backwards compatibility; that's why the gas through rail and banjo bolt of the original R/T was dropped. An X-valve is supposed to be a drop in upgrade for an existing mag.

    The Automag: Not as clumsy or random as an electro. An elegant marker for a more civilised age.

    www.reddit.com/u/MrBarraclough

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    • FredMnkyDad10

      FredMnkyDad10

      commented
      Editing a comment
      That is what I thought too.

    #3
    I had about 30 classic valve diameter measurements done a few years ago and the measurements were all over the board, no two the same. X valves seem to be a little better, and I have two Retros that match the x valve exactly (one has a serial number of vv00686 and the other vv02544) X valves are typically 1.19" to 1.20" from what I have seen.

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    • FredMnkyDad10

      FredMnkyDad10

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah that what it looks like with the classic valves I have tried. Each seems to fit just a little bit different in the body.

      I have tried a RT Pro and X valve, both slide all the way deep into and out of the body without any issues.

      Maybe that is why the people have said that they had no velocity issues with the 2k9 PTP micromag bodies when they used X valves. But most did when they used classic valves.

      Maybe I will have to try the other classics I have or hunt for one in the 1.19 range.

      Thanks for the info Luke.

    • dano_____
      dano_____ commented
      Editing a comment
      Classic valves were always hit and miss for any body that sleeves over the valve. My evo body didn't like my reverse MiniMag Valve but was fine with a different classic. The 2k9 Micromag I had was always miss. It didn't matter what valve you put in it you could not get it about 250 fps. If you used the stainless cup to save the body from the spring it got worse. It always made me sad that they had this issue because it is aesthetically and function wise my favorite mag body ever built.

    #4
    Maybe that is why the people have said that they had no velocity issues with the 2k9 PTP micromag bodies when they used X valves. But most did when they used classic valves.
    Definitely not.

    However it is the reason why you would get bolt stick in the stainless steel bodies and classic valves and the fix was to either tighten or loosen the field strip screw, at least in my estimation. You have to realize that the diameter of the valve changes the center-line of the bolt meaning it will either sit higher or lower in the breach. When you add in the all the intricacies with the stainless steel bodies and different valve diameters it messes with tolerances one way or another.

    People still offer the advice to loosen or tighten the FS screw with ULE bodies and X valves but I have never seen a case where that was a fix or at lease the actual problem. Comparing the SS body and valves to the ULE body and X valve is like comparing apples to tomatoes, their just completely different animals or in this example different fruits, lol. Manufacturing of the two are two completely different things and really can't be looked at the same way. You can get a higher level of tolerance accuracy with the aluminum parts than you can with the stainless steel parts.

    All that said it doesn't mean all aluminum bodies are designed or manufactured to spec, but that's a different conversation.
    Last edited by LukeAO; 10-03-2022, 11:15 AM.

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