I was doing a bit of testing with my automag and found out that the bolt is sitting too far forward when the gun is gassed up, cutting off the feed of paintballs and/or causing chops due to partial feeds. It's a classic valve with what looks to be a stock AGD foamieless bolt? The bolt sits back properly when the gun is not gassed up (or when I hold the trigger in after firing it) and the spring is pushing the bolt flush with the bumper. As soon as it gets gas, the bolt is pushed out a few mm until it catches the sear, causing the edge of the bolt to protrude into the breech just enough to cause feeding issues. The sear does not appear to be worn. Do I have an out-of-spec bolt, or is there something else going on? Gun works great otherwise, cycles perfectly. I've tried two bodies, same issue with both. Any help/advise on this would be appreciated, I'm out of ideas.
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Automag Bolt Issue
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AGD made a bunch of different styles. These were known to clip paint especially smaller paint.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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What does the sear look like. If it has been filed down too many times to keep catching the bolt then the bolt will sit further forward into the breach. Hard to tell is that a short nose or long nose level 7 bolt. I always preferred the long nose level 7 bolt and how it sits and locks up.
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I had the same thought regarding the sear, but after a close inspection it looks almost new, there is no noticeable wear on the lip where it catches the bolt. I'm not sure what version of bolt that is, although I did notice that on some of the foamieless bolts the outer 'sleeve' does not come flush to the tip of the bolt, but mine does.
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If the bolt face is too far forward only when gassed up, my inclination is to suspect the sear of being out of spec, unless the bolt flange is too thin. While the edge of the sear may not show obvious wear, the distance between the pivot hole and the mating surface of the sear may be too long. Could be a case of stacked tolerances between the sear and bolt, such that swapping one or the other might fix the issue.
The Automag: Not as clumsy or random as an electro. An elegant marker for a more civilised age.
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I was thinking the same, stacked tolerances may definitely be involved. I'm noticing roughly 2mm or so of forward movement in the bolt until the sear catches, I don't know it that's normal in mags or if the sear should catch the bolt basically as it sits on the bumper. I might order a new sear from AGD just to rule it out.
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I am pretty sure it is just the type of bolt you have. I will snap some pics when i get home and you will see that they made different length bolts and in doing so some of the ones like this one do not like small paint. the best solution is going to a level 10 where it has the soft face and also a radiused top edge. as far as level 7 bolts, i try to avoid using ans or venturi bolts as they are all concave. The agd long nose bolts were better as they OD of the bolt was shorter and was less likely to clip the 2nd ball.BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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Sounds good, thx. A shorter bolt would definitely fix it, since the '1st ball' isn't able to drop completely, thus getting chopped or pinched as it gets stuck 2/3rd of the way into the breech. If a ball does make it in, the following ball has the same problem. The bigger the paint, the worse the problem.
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Last edited by superman; 08-30-2023, 01:09 PM.BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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This thread is a nice reminder that I should dig my long nose out of the old storage tote and swap it back in. Currently I have one of those gold colored ANS venturi bolts that seemed like a brilliant idea when I was a teenager in the late 90s.
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The ANS bolts are fine, until you hit a threshold. They aren't hardened (or at least not properly), so they wear out quickly compared to the stock AGD bolts.
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