Leaking Brand New RT On/Off

[JonM]

I purchased a new RT on/off from AGD for my Retro Valve Mag. It’s been assembled using all of the new seals included with the part, but it’s still leaking bad and barely activating the sear. I checked for any nicks in the seals and made sure to oil them before installing the assembly. Swapping it out with another on/off from another Mag stops the leak. I can’t for the life of me figure out why this new one is giving me so much trouble. I even tried replacing the new seals with others without success.

[superman]

Leaking from where?
Are you using the same pin in both setups?


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[JonM]

It’s leaking directly from the body where the on/off is located in the valve. The pin is the new one that came with the on/off. The pin in the working one was not swapped over. I did confirm that the pins are the same length using digital calipers.

[Euphie]

Does the pin itself have a scratch or a burr on it perhaps?

[JonM]

None that I can see.

[Jordan]

AGD is starting to look like PPS these days.

[superman]

Machining defects are way different than orings.
Agd has been fighting their oring manufacturer for awhile now.

[Jordan]

PPS had machining defects, or AGD?

I'm referring to bad seals out of the box. Nothing more, nothing less.

[superman]

PPS had some parts that were out of tolerance and had issues sealing.
AGD did not.

[JonM]

I’m thinking the issue is likely with the o-ring that seats inside the on/off assembly. The seal is so tight that the pin is unable to freely move.

[sandman]

John, seating is the issue. Our orings are very hard. Sometimes when they are new, especially these 004's in the middle of the on/off, they resist seating. Take care to specifically track the direction of the oring and flip it over, then re-install and gas up again. You might have to flip it a couple of time and hit it with gas pressure until it seats itself in it's new space. Once it does you are golden for a long time. I have to do this with almost every valve I build new. Bad orings are possible but very rare. Another cheat to help seat orings is hot water. Briefly soaking an oring in hot water from a instant coffee machine can help it seat.

[JonM]

At this point, I’ve kind of said screw it, replaced the on/off with another from my X-valve Mag, and put the ULT back in the X-valve to replace it. The new one is obviously suffering from some QC issues that I’ve frankly gotten sick of fussing with. At least I have all of my Mags back up and running.

Edit: I found a more “seasoned” o-ring as I was working on turning the Level 10 kit that solved the on/off leak. It’s confirmed - the new o-rings included in both the new assembly and in my rebuild kit are out of spec. The new on/off is working fine using the older o-ring I found.

[Euphie]

I suppose that makes sense, AGD has in the past had to include all sorts of shims and spacers and such to deal with O-ring tolerances. I am sort of surprised that there is a need though, you would figure o-ring suppliers would be better with QA by now. I do wonder if there is any practical way for AGD to test them, as that would be the best to help the consumer

[Spider!]

Cheap o-rings helped to kill WDP. Brand new $1500 markers that wouldn't shoot. I hope AGD isn't getting whole batches of bad rings.

[sandman]

Oring's are fine. But orings are like snowflakes and can vary in tolerances. The latest batches have been "hard" for 90 durometer. They sometimes need encouragement to seat.

[Spider!]

On those hard ones, I have had luck in the past with some polishing compound on steel rod to get the mold edge out of the inside. That was especially useful on level 10 o-rings as a break-in process.

[tunaman5]

Just fit the oring to the pins before installing them. Reg Valve pin orings too. You can tell immediately if it is too tight or too loose. Always assemble the on/off' and put one drop of oil inside. If you cant move the pin easily its too tight.