Xvalve no worky

[PaintballNut]

So I completely rebuilt the xvalve twice, adjusted the trigger sear thing all the way in and just about all the way out, tried multiple pins with the ult on off and with a rt on off. No worky still…. What can I do next??
yes I used air to test it lol

[superman]

Tank output pressure? Sear rod set properly? Level 10 set properly?


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[PaintballNut]

I’ve tried output pressure from 850 to 1200psi with my evil omen tank reg. Sear rod I when quarter turns in and out. The lvl 10 I haven’t touched when I purchased it brand new 10 years ago from AGD. What I feel when I air it up is when I pull the trigger it feels stiff and spongier then normal. I have to unscrew the reg screw from the pistol grip to release the air pressure from it so I can work on it again. I don’t know if that is an indication of something I’m missing but probably is knowing me lol

[Cdn_Cuda]

ULT is the devil. I went through two nice Xvalves with ULT and had the issue you are having. Bought a well used classic mag and finally enjoyed owning a mag.

[Dusty Bottoms]

Not a fan of ULT's either. Takes a valve design that is already so dependent on oring specs being within tight tolerances to work right and just makes it even more complicated.

[Arthur]

Did the exact same thing.

[Trbo323]

Oil the ever loving piss out of everything.

I had this problem as well, for me at least. Once I drowned everything in oil it worked. Then stopped again after 500 shots, drowned in oil again and worked for a case or so. Repeat

It basically needed breaking in and wanted a ton of oil to do it

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[PaintballNut]

I’ll get more oil and drown it see what happens. If it still persist imma trade it for something I guess. Thanks for the comments yall!

[superman]

If you put too much oil in it, it can hydra lol and not cycle also. Have you confirmed it is assembled correctly? Does the bolt slide off the powertube easily? Any chance the carrier size is too tight?

[PaintballNut]

I made sure it slides off easy and doesn’t stick and made sure everything goes back the way it’s supposed to per agd diagram. That’s one of the reasons I’m so baffled with it. I tried to send it off to agd but he kept saying try this that and this but it all failed.

[Chuck E Ducky]

What tank input pressure dose an xvalve run best at?

[Chuck E Ducky]

Not leak would be great. Is there a pressure it’s most reliable at. I got a powerhouse and a few different pistons for various pressures so I can set it to whatever is best. I think it’s 650 ish now for my mini regulated CCM. Is that to low possibility. Most of my stuff I try and setup do High pressure 800-825 so I can use it on my Phantom setups as well. Mags I imagine prefer higher pressure due to the era they were used. But I could totally be off base I really don’t know all that much about them. I don’t need it to rip streams of paint I’m going to run a JoLo / stick feed and a FS tank on it 90% of the time.

[superman]

650 sounds a bit low. 750 is really the low end that i go to with an rt style valve with a power house. In talking with Power house they use a different spring/piston combo for that range than they do with the other ranges. just a heads up, you may want to confirm with them on the right combo.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I have an HP kit and the tool.

It’s a Spring Piston combo.

I’m going to try my ninja that I know is in the 800s maybe that’s all my problem is.

[SR_matt]

I just aired my mag up today after a rebuild and ran into similar issues but I also had some notable leaks from the forward vent hole. I am running 950 in with a ULT. Here is what I went through to get it at least cycling (but with a slight leak):

Flipped the top ULT oring and the two reg seat orings (#7 and #20 on the xvalve diagram), and pulled the reg piston out and back in a few times each time I flipped them. Did that a few times, went to a larger carrier (I was following the you should be able to pick up the valve by the bolt and get the valve to drop with a little shake which gave me a 0.5 carrier, went up to the 1.0 which really won’t hold the valve up, maybe once if I am lucky but the valve normally falls off) and then upped my velocity adjuster a bit and it started shooting well enough for me to at least get to a point I was comfortable tuning the level 10. By that point I started dropping low on pressure in the tank though. I was getting issues with the bolt not resetting but not totally sure if that was just a pressure issue since the carrier o ring theoretically should get looser not tighter as it breaks in. At one point I did also have a weird thing where it felt like the marker would fire at different points in the pull so something clearly was binding up but don’t think it was the thumb screw being too tight as I could take it off easily by hand.

I still need to work out the small leak and break it in more before I actually play but I think (hope) I can get through that early in the morning at the field on Saturday (as long as the weather isn’t totally stupid… but tuning the mag in 35-40* weather may not be the best idea either lol).

I did see sandman recently post that the o rings latley take a bit to seat, especially the 004s on the RT on off, and flipping them and then airing it back up can help. He even said heating them up in hot water to soften them can help them seat.

[SR_matt]

For what its worth for anyone in the future trying to track this down here is a simplified version of the process that I followed with a lot more trial and error that ended up betting everything working well for me when my X Valve wouldn't shoot and I had a leak out of the forward vent hole.

First was flipping the top ring on the ULT and flipping the two o rings at the reg seat. This helped improve the leak. I repeated it until flipping them made the leak worse and then flipped them back.

Additionally I found that the carrier was too tight, even with all the "pick up the valve, tap it, etc" directions. Try pushing your bolt back and see if it clicks and charges up. If so just go to a larger carrier until you get it cycling and then deal with carrier testing. I did manage to get my level 10 tuned with he leak as it wasn't from the carrier so I wasn't worried about issues there.

The final thing I had to do for my leak out of the front hole was I pulled the reg pin and pulled off the o rings and plastic spacer, cleaned everything really well, and then put the o rings back on in the opposite order with a tiny bit of dow 33 on them (not sure if the dow was really needed and pretty sure it blew straight out of the marker after less than 100 shots cause I saw what appeared to be a spot of white grease in my barrel).

After this the marker was playable. It would leak for a second after air up from the front vent hole but sealed up after a split second or after the first shot. After about 1300 balls through the marker it feels rather broken in (I am sure the ULT will break in a bit more) but I was able to get sold RT with 975psi in (clocked 25 over the chromo) but also not so much that it was giving me double shots.

[Trbo323]

Have you tried a different spring yet? This is sounding more and more like you have too much rearwards force with the spring and not enough forward force with the air. That's why bumping your velocity up worked, you increased the amount of forward force

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[SR_matt]

I assume that’s to me since OP didn’t mention velocity adjustment. I haven’t tried a different spring yet but even the adjuster turned wayyy down it still was leaking. The leak is getting better but I put almost another two tanks through it (but they were down to like 3200 after I got back from getting them filled and they cooled so not full tanks). And of course I blew the foamie off that I just glued on so had to clean off the mess of oil and going to let it sit for a day or two. If that doesn’t work I will just pull out the damn epoxy lol.