x-valve ano question

[rawbutter]

This is probably a stupid question, but I can anodize the x-valve regulator nut without a problem, right? I know anodizing the whole valve is problematic because of the difficulty of removing the z pin. But the x-valve regulator nut is just plain aluminum. It should be fine.

In case you're wondering, I'm thinking about doing a custom accent kit by anodizing just the regulator nut, the feedneck collar, the detent, and maybe the grip screws.

[superman]

The xvalve adjuster is stainless not aluminum.
The z pin is not as difficult as most just mask it. It is the tolerance between the regulator and the halves as well as well as the on/off tolerances.


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[rawbutter]

Okay. Good to know. Thanks.

[tunaman5]

The reannodizing process fails when the valve halves are left in the stripper too long, and the threads on the 2 halves become smaller causing the halves to come together too much. Then the z lock pin and or the field strip screw wont go in unless you rotate the halves open a bit...causing a permanent leak. You can remove the pin and get it to work sometimes.

[rawbutter]

Yeah, I'm not planning to do the whole valve. It's already a reverse valve. Don't need it to be even more special.

[tunaman5]

While on the subject, I just got in another Xmag straight from anno. It is truly beautiful and i am sure the owner will post up when I am done. The only problem is that the valve is ruined of course, as the 017 oring between the halves no longer will seal. The valve halves must be rotated open to get the field strip screw in...so it will leak. The anno guy did all the right things apparently. The tolerances just suck for reaanoing these valves. Be careful.

[superman]

That is because you have to mask the faces between the 2 halves not just the threads. The faces are what control the rotation. If the valve is toast/trashed I would be interested in trying to fix it if it is a lost cause.

[tunaman5]

You are correct. The faces are a part of it too. It is a shame because the z lock pin now protrudes right in the window of the body. I can re drill a new Zlock pin, but the old one will show and the lasering will be off. I am going to try a different oring, but that wont get the halves tight enough to stop the back half from rotating without a z lock pin. This is why reannoing an Xvalve is at your own risk.

[wthomas333]

I had an issue with a classic valve not sealing and was able to find a metric oring that was just slightly larger than the stock one. It worked great and I haven’t had any issues. I have actually needed to use it in another valve since. I looked into the metric oring that is slightly larger than the 017 as well since at one point I was considering getting one anodized.
The cross section of a 017 is about 1.8mm with an OD of 20.7mm. This metric one from McMaster would be just slightly bigger than a 017 with a cross section of 2mm with an OD of 21mm It’s a 90d buna, but they do have other compounds. Might be a good one to try.

https://www.mcmaster.com/1247N155/