ULT and Carrier questions

[jpdgas]

I reached out to Sandman with these questions, but he's probably sitting on a beach somewhere. With AO gone, hopefully someone here has the answers.
I picked up a xvalve with a ULT, not sure on the age so I'm just going to rebuild the ULT.
-What orings do I need for a full rebuild?
-It didn't come with extra shims, what is that max # that I would need?
-I know a SHP reg is not advised, what is a happy reg pressure for ULTs?

I also saw there are 00 and 000 carriers now, are those new? How are they marked? I'm pretty sure I don't have any as my carriers are pretty old, but even the smallest is on the verge of too big.

[superman]

I believe max is 7 of the ult shims though most don't get that many. you can use level 10 shims, but they are twice as thick so you only use half as many.
pressure really is dependent on how you want it to shoot, but really closer to the 800-850.
Yes those 2 carriers are newer and are the result orings being made smaller by oring manufacturers.

[jpdgas]

That's what I needed, thanks!

[tunaman5]

To rebuild the ULT you will need a couple of on/off/powertube orings and a tiny black oring for the middle. I have them if you need them.

[jpdgas]

Thanks Tuna, I have these in my AGD cart. I'm grabbing a full valve rebuild kit and some extra small carriers. Once the orings break in the 0 is slightly too big.

[Trbo323]

It's taken a while but I absolutely love my xvalve and either ult or RT depending on the day.

One recommendation, get a genuine rebuild kit from AGD for the x valve. They will last a decade. But realize, they need some breaking in so understand it's going to take some shooting and tinkering and then it will feel like it's gone out of tune and you'll need to adjust it again. After, idk, 5 cases or so through it even if it's just air it will all settle in. Just keep it drowning in lube while it breaks in

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[superman]

Too much oil will cause it to hydro lock and won’t work again until yiu actually remove some of the oil.

You only need a couple drops here and there before play.

[jpdgas]

This is actually x-valve #3 (I may have a "problem"), but thanks for the heads up.
I usually drop 2-3 in it before each play day. The oring break in phase does seem different with the new formula.
How can you tell if it gets hydro locked?

[Trbo323]

I avoid the headaches and expense by doing a pre-assembly o-ring break in on all the o-rings except a few that dont matter and the marker runs out of the gate then final field break in should be trouble free.

What all does that involve?

I might need to stash that knowledge away. For when I need it.... In like 7 years

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[SR_matt]

ULT max shim should be 4 (make sure they are ULT not LVL10 shims, ULT are .005 and lvl 10 are .010). That being said each valve is different, some people have been able to use more and some less is overkill. 4 really should be all you need but a lot of us also go for the purposeful creating a malfunction to get some RT from the ULT.

For pressure you will need to play with it, I also found that after the ULT broke in mine got MUCH more reactive (to the point that it went from perfect to uncontrollable immediately). I was running 975 in with 4 shims. I haven’t gotten to get back out but since then but I went to 2 shims and may play with the pressure to try and get a stronger reset but longer pull to get more control. If you have a trigger stop, I would recommend not setting them short until the on/off breaks in. I suspect that was my issue for the immediate crazy change.

BE VERY CAREFUL when rebuilding your ULT. The official way is to cut the zero pull ring off with flush cutters or a super sharp razor. Then carefully push the new one over the top. It is really easy to bend the pin though. If you do bend it though email sandman and he sells them.

for rebuilding the valve make sure you use lube but don’t go overboard. Lube will not fix a leak, it can help let the rings move to where they need but flooding it will not help. The seating of the rings isn’t bad but you may have to flip them a couple times. Don’t waste a bunch of air trying to shoot through it, air it up, get a couple shots, and if it’s leaking flip the rings on the pin.

On the carrier size I am not a fan of the “pick the valve up” method as after the valve sits it sticks more than if you have moved the bolt in and out a few time. Just find the smallest size that leaks without shims, go to the next size down, shoot 100 times and then check for a leak and you may need to step down one (and after a few cases you may need to step down again if you develop a leak). Then add shims until it leaks and then back off one. 0-4 shims (0.010”) is the official range with 2 being the normal starting point.

others may not agree with the process I used but it works for me and seems to get to a reasonable point.

[poyvoy]

Glad I found this. I have an ULE mag that seems to have been "locked up" for a year that we finally did a rebuild on and managed to free it up. Looking forward to playing with it and getting it tuned out the way it should be.