Recently picked up this mag and sorted through a couple minor issues with the trigger, seems to be working properly now, however I had read in another thread that if you hold down the trigger and get a leak, that is an issue. Is that accurate? As you can see if I hold down the trigger until it starts to leak and then release the trigger, the on/off and sear fail to reset themselves without a nudge. It has a ULT with 3 shims in at the moment. Tank pressure tester tells me I’m outputting 780 psi. If this is an issue, is an on/off rebuild the place to start? Thanks.
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Recently picked up this mag and sorted through a couple minor issues with the trigger, seems to be working properly now, however I had read in another thread that if you hold down the trigger and get a leak, that is an issue. Is that accurate? As you can see if I hold down the trigger until it starts to leak and then release the trigger, the on/off and sear fail to reset themselves without a nudge. It has a ULT with 3 shims in at the moment. Tank pressure tester tells me I’m outputting 780 psi. If this is an issue, is an on/off rebuild the place to start? Thanks.
Last edited by Parker; 12-10-2024, 08:21 PM. -
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If you get a leak while holding down the trigger, then the on/off isn't sealing fully. It's an issue. One of the more minor ones for a mag to have, but technically yes, it's an issue.
Requiring a nudge to reset makes me suspicious of the o-rings inside the on/off. If they aren't exactly to spec they can have a tendency to grab the on/off pin.
The Automag: Not as clumsy or random as an electro. An elegant marker for a more civilised age.
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A leak down the breach/barrel when at rest indicates a poor seal within the power tube. Are you using a Level 7 or Level 10 bolt setup? If it's a Level 10, you may need to try a different spacer.
I'm still suspicious of the o-rings in your on/offs (both of them). Are they urethane or are they those hard PTFE ones?
Have you messed with the length of the rod connecting the trigger to the sear? Is it properly gapped when at rest with the trigger forward? -
Level 10. You know, they do seem a little more stiff than a classic oring, but they did all come direct from AGD. I used the ones that came with the RT on/off kit and the 00123 from the x valve rebuild kit. Which on a tangent, sure would be nice if they labeled what’s what in those kits.
I have not messed with the trigger rod, it’s probably a little tighter than a credit card gap, but it’s not fully pressing against the trigger or anything, there is a sliver of day light between the trigger and rod.
thanks for your thoughts. I will play with the carrier and power tube next. -
You'll want to consult with superman regarding the best materials to use for the internal on/off o-rings. I vaguely recall that the hard PTFE ones are a holdover from back in the day and may not be necessary now. Those little buggers seem to be a bit grabby.
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If it has a ult in it, make sure it has been oiled. I do not recommend drenching it in oil, but i would make sure everything is at least wet in the on/off. ULT's can act weird when they are dry.
I would also check the inner black oring on the on/off to see if it is hard. It should squish if it does not and has become hard replaced it.
Make sure your bolt spring extends about 1/4" past the end of your bolt if it is shorter, it may not have enough force to return it.
If those don't do it i would try swapping the top inside oring on the on/off. The urethane one that sits below the face.BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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