2003 X Valve RT Pro

[Drone31]

I pulled my automag out of storage (15ish years) last summer and replaced all the orings. I have not been able to get it running right. How do you break in the orings. It has an RT on/off and level 10 bolt.

Thanks,
Brandon

[Magageddon]

leaking? Or just just not shooting right?

[Drone31]

Not shooting right.

[superman]

You have to shoot it. Get out and use it.

[Magageddon]

Your not really giving any information for us to try and help diagnose your issue. A picture or a video of whats going on would give us a better idea.

This style gun obviously needs higher output tank pressure to run right, you need 700 minimum tank pressure, I run mine on 850 which is the usual stock output pressure on a 68/4500 air tank. Do not use a CO2 tank, you will freeze the valve and it will not work right.

If your pulling the trigger and nothings happening, either your velocity screw isn't screwed in far enough or your sear pin length needs to be adjusted, you need a credit card thickness gap between the sear pin and trigger to work well.

Sometimes while the gun is aired up and not shooting right, just loosen the valve field strip screw a hair turn, sometimes the valve to body ratio is off by a few thousandths and loosening the screw will even things out. I've done this on numerous mags and has always been a good trick to know about if that's all that's wrong with your mag.

[Drone31]

Ok, I will try to get a video this weekend.

[Drone31]

I used the Hyper Flow 420 in the mid 2000s. I am using the Ninja right now. I have a regulator that is supposed to have an 1100PSI output but don't have access to an air compressor. Gun originally came with the ULT on/off and I am trying to get it to work with a new RT on/off. I have Luke's customs pneumag stuff I want to use when I get it working and have access to air. The trigger pin does not seem to be fully extending and I have to take it apart and push the on/off pin to get the valve out. It is telling me I can't upload an MP4 video.

[nak81783]

The pin sticking out is common. Newer frames have a hole between the grip and field strip screw, so you can push on the sear to push the pin back up.

That's getting toward the low end of recommended tank output pressure, especially for new o-rings.

Did you do all the stuff Magageddon suggested above?

Another quick initial check is to make sure the bolt spring sticks past the nose of the bolt at least 1/8". If not, it may not be strong enough to return the bolt. Also, the Level 10 carrier should be the loosest one than doesn't leak. As the o-ring breaks in, you may have to size the carrier down, continuing to use the same bolt stem o-ring.

I've had better luck with millable gum urethane 90 durometer o-rings from theoringstore.com than cast urethane 90 durometer o-rings AGD uses (I think they still do anyway). The cast are just too stiff and take forever to break in.

[Drone31]

Does the trigger pin need to be adjusted when switching between on/offs? It is not even firing right now. My spring is new. I think Level 10 is tuned pretty well.

[nak81783]

Let's make sure we have our jargon right.

Trigger rod = threaded portion of the sear. I've always just used the credit card thickness gap between back of trigger and trigger rod when marker is aired up. You should start with this while you try some of the other suggestions.

On/off pin (not sure if this is what you're calling trigger pin). Decades ago, all my pins were .750" length. My more recent RT/X-Valve Mags were .740" and .745". You can sand the smaller diameter end to achieve the length you desire. However, this is NOT something I suggest you do until other things are tried. It effects trigger reactivity. I never cared about RT effect, but it can affect recharge rate if you've got issues with that. My opinion is the older stuff is better. The newer X-Valves just seem more finicky than RT and older X-Valves. You've got an old X-Valve but a new RT on/off, so a mix of old and new parts. When I was having trouble with recharge rate on a newer X-Valve, Tim at AGD told me the RT on/off body is supposed to be .627-.633" long/tall, so that's something you could check to make sure it's in spec.

So, as Magageddon suggested, set the trigger rod to the credit card gap thickness. If it still isn't firing, start turning in the velocity adjuster, especially if you took it out to install new o-rings in that area. I still remember about 25 years ago my first Classic Mag out of the box wouldn't fire. I was ticked. Just had to turn in the velocity adjuster a bit, and it ran fine.

[Drone31]

I adjusted the trigger rod and it still doesn't fire.

[Walker]

Pin sticking out: This seems to be an RT on/off thing. Using a small screwdriver or an allen wrench, carefully push the trigger rod back farther. A lot of times this is enough extra to push the pin into the on/off far enough to take the valve out.

I do this every time, before removing the field strip bolt.. I have Classic valves, RT on/offs and Level-10 bolts in all three of my Mags...

My Classic valves will run off a 725psi tank. I wouldn't think the X-valve would have an issue with that pressure.

[Drone31]

I took the valve back apart to look for issues and I replaced the #7 O-ring with the next size up and it seems to be working good now. Thank you to everyone who helped.

Thanks,
Brandon