benchmark single trigger adjustments

[Drcemento]

finally got my hands on a nice benchmark single trigger frame. I love how these look on a mag, but the pull is funky as hell. - really long and spongy. can you shorten it by adjusting the rod out to shorten the pull? I do have an RT valve in there to try that out. thinking of swapping back and starting there, but not sure it will change the length of the pull.

[Jordan]

That's the classic Benchie feel on a Mag. I never liked them for that reason.

I don't recall there being any adjustments possible to "fix" the feel but I'm sure someone will know of something.

[Walker]

You would have to modify the frame to add your own stop:

The following is quoted from Terry Garrett of G3 Paintball.

Since this frame has a guard, it is often a chore to install the usual over-travel set-screw behind the trigger. Many years ago I would drill a hole through the rear of the frame in order to could get an aligned hole to tap just behind the trigger to install the stop screw in. On frames with the guards removed it's a simple task to just drill and tap the hole. Not so when you have a trigger guard in your way.

Photo (Above) shows the area I now use to install trigger stops on frames with guards. Since drilling and tapping a hole with a slot already in existence can be really "fun", you need to be really careful with this - especially when tapping the threads for the stop.

Photo (Above) shows the finished project. Drill and tap size will vary with what is used for the stop. In this case it's the adjuster from an old stock AutoCocker. Hex plugs also work great. They require a 1/8" NPT thread, whereas the adjuster used is a 3/8-24. Screw the adjuster so the top surface is flush with the top of the frame or slightly below, as to not interfere with the body rail when re-assembling.

The top of the trigger will hit the bottom of the stop, acting to prevent trigger over-travel. Adjustment is made by either tightening the plug further into the frame or by grinding the plug so that it's thinner. When drilling the pilot hole for the tap, be sure and not drill all the way through the trigger slot into the guard opening. It won't affect the operation but it would look rather horrible.....This method certainly isn't as easy to adjust as the version on the original cut frame but once it's set, there should be no need to alter it anyway. Also makes for a really clean looking installation. You ahve to be careful since you usually wind up cutting into the safety spring hole. To date, this has not been a problem....

[Drcemento]

I like this! thank you! looking at the frame and pull I think a stop would really help reduce travel. also pretty doable with a drill press.

[superman]

so instead of trying to drill and tap that. one of the modficiations someone did in the past was cut a slot for another sear pin to sit in across to block the trigger. It looks way cleaner. I am sure i could setup to cut this if someone wanted one done. I will dig for a picture when i get home.

[Drcemento]

I did some more digging and found that the length of the rod does need to be adjusted for the new frame and trigger. reverting back to a standard on off changed the feel dramatically - much snappier and better, so i'm hoping a stop and rod adjustment make it a little shorter. I really hate the heavy standard mag trigger pull - gives me finger cramps when rapid firing and is one of the reasons i never really liked them.

[Grendel]

Yup, you need to make your sear rod fit correctly for a Benchmark frame. In addition I use Nylon/Teflon washer/shims on the trigger pivot pin to take up some of the slop left to right.