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Mag not cycling after LVL 10 install

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    Mag not cycling after LVL 10 install

    Picked up a new LVL 10 for a minimag build. installed per ancient videos. in this case a 0 carrier seemed to work. aired up and.... nothing. I can feel that the on- off has aired up. when I pull trigger nothing happens. I have a benchmark frame on it and had made rod adjustments for the trigger.... it was firing fine before bolt install. I'm at a loss.... tried different springs, rod adjustment, shims and a different carrier to no avail.

    #2
    turn the velocity up. gold spring, 2 shims largest carrier that doesn't leak.
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    • nak81783

      nak81783

      commented
      Editing a comment
      superman Out of curiosity, please remind me why you recommend the shims. I thought those were only if the bolt doesn't reset when it hits something. My understanding is they push the carrier (and therefore bolt stem o-ring) back further, so the bolt doesn't have to travel as far forward before the bolt's tiny side vent hole clears the bolt stem o-ring, allowing it to vent and reset if it hits a ball. Thanks.
      Last edited by nak81783; 01-11-2025, 08:52 AM.

    #3
    thanks superman! it was the velocity. took about 3 full turns to get it to cycle. will fine tune tomorrow when I can make some more racket. still trying to wrap my head around the relationships of all these parts.

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      #4
      Because the bolt is side venting as it fires (so it can reset if it pinches a ball), it needs more pressure to cycle.

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        #5
        I got a chance to play around with this more today. when I got it to work last night it was a red spring with one shim. when I tried gold spring and 2 shims it would not budge, regardless of velocity.

        Today i got it to work with a gold spring and one shim but its clearly not as gentle on paint as the red spring. I'm shooting some of the crappiest most brittle stuff i've got and the gold spring got a couple good breach breaks. switched back to red and it worked great - though i did not really get a misfire during that time - where I heard the bolt stop short on the ball.

        any other fine tuning to make it prioritize gentleness? I'm running a big 80 CI tank with an 1100 PSI input that I normally use on an RT - would it help to go to 800 PSI input?

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          #6
          I don't run over 900 unless I plan to rt. The shims are to be used to control when the bolt begins to vent. If you use more shims it vents sooner. It will be less efficient but more gentle. Red spring is more gentle and again less efficient.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
          BW Youtube
          BW Ebay

          BW Email
          I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

          Comment


            #7
            Drcemento


            1. When the marker is aired up, is there about a credit card thickness gap between the trigger rod and back of the trigger?

            2. Are you using a chronograph? How gentle a given setup is on paint is irrelevant if it's not at a good velocity. The red spring can significantly reduced velocity compared to the gold spring, all else being equal. That said, if you're not sure of velocity, the gold spring may have been breaking paint because it was at a really high velocity, where the red spring was producing a 300-ish fps velocity.

            Here's a simple place to start.
            1. Largest carrier that doesn't leak
            2. No shims
            3. Gold spring

            That setup should start cycling around 200 fps.

            If this works and you're using a force feed loader, I would stick with the simple setup above. It gives you the best efficiency, a softer initial bolt impact to help prevent ball breaks (compared to a Level 7 bolt), the most reliability, and the force feed loader will help prevent chops.

            Stick a squeegee (NOT YOUR FINGER) in the feed tube and shoot. If the bolt resets, you don't need shims. If it doesn't reset add, a shim at a time until it does.

            A tighter carrier, adding shims, and a longer/stiffer spring can make the setup more gentle on paint at the cost of efficiency and reliability. It's just a forward pressure vs. resistance against that forward pressure teeter-totter. The closer you get to equilibrium, the less reliable it will be - potentially getting bolt stick in the middle of a shooting match.

            Decades ago when still using a Revvy, I'd tune my Level 10 to prevent chops, but I'd frequently get bolt stick, especially in changing weather conditions. I'd have to degas and re-gas and/or push a squeegee down the barrel to reset the bolt. Once I got a Halo force feed loader, I tuned per the simple setup above and never had problems again.

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