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A 3 way switch that doesnt leak

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    #16
    Key notes. On chasing down 3way leaks
    1. Using orings out of the provided kit is a NO NO. Resurrection ones are junk always buy new orings (the oring store)
    2. Bad 3way orings or too loose orings
      1. Try urethane or other brand orings to tighten up loose fitting parts
    3. Ram piston oring bad 010. While gassed up pull off the front ram hose to see if air is leaking out the front ram barb (replace -010 oring)
      1. Resurrection and some ID Rams "piston to shaft" Loctite gone bad and needs to be re-Loctited
      2. ID Rams bumpers are JUNK and swell making the ram preform inconsistent and leak. (Replace with some from Docfire Paintball)
    4. LPR over or under pressurized.
      1. With loose fitting orings lower PSI will not balloon/stretch the oring to seal.
      2. Over PSI LPR will over balloon/stretch causing the oring to be chipped on one of the 3way barb holes
    5. Miss aligned front block, causing the 3way shaft or timing rod to bind or bend
      1. Poor timing rod coupling threads. Try loosening the tiny looking set screws and see if the leak goes away. If so don't over tighten them.
    6. Bent 3way shaft or timing rod
    7. Leak not coming from orings (use soapy spray water to see find location) barb fittings
    8. Damage to 3way or ram bore ALU parts from scratches or re-anodizing damage
    Key thing to remember. If it was working before then through time it developed a leak it most likely and bad oring, and not a bad part.

    As a person providing tech work my number one policy is to replace every oring and soft seal no matter how good it looks or if it is static or dynamic seal. Also with some manufactures new products all orings a replaced. I have had issue on new products having bad orings out of the box.
    Last edited by docfire; 09-12-2024, 08:18 PM.

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      #17
      Walked away in frustration from this thing for a couple days, but it was like a bad itch and i dug back in last night - long story short I think it was the LPR spiking causing the most recent issues - I built up a gauge and measured the LPR's output - i could dial it up to about 65 then it would spike the gauge erratically. Took it apart and cleaned out all the grease, and replaced what o-rings i could and put it all back together. the 3 way was still leaking but I was getting better pressure readings from the LPR and decided to try and change the 3 way O-rings one more time thinking the Overpressure might have ruined them. and... it worked! no leaks, cyles really nicely. this all jives with Docs post above so...

      I still need to do a full set of o-rings on the LPR to ensure it doesn't get wierd for awhile.

      does anyone have a breakdown of the ID o-ring sizes in the LPR and Ram? - BW mentioned some are metric? I know the 3 ways are, and some other o-rings seem to be slightly offsize from standard so its hard to be sure.

      bit of a bummer cause i just ordered up some ID re-build kits but now i feel i cant trust them! - and finally buying something "new" (inception pneumatics) after so many years of used parts off MCB only to have to re-build it right off the bat.

      now that it works though i love this marker - smoothest cocker i've ever shot, great pull with the gunfighter frame and the ID front end is light and working great now.

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      • docfire

        docfire

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        Great. Now have fun with it.

      #18
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        #19
        Originally posted by Drcemento View Post
        Walked away in frustration from this thing for a couple days, but it was like a bad itch and i dug back in last night - long story short I think it was the LPR spiking causing the most recent issues - I built up a gauge and measured the LPR's output - i could dial it up to about 65 then it would spike the gauge erratically. Took it apart and cleaned out all the grease, and replaced what o-rings i could and put it all back together. the 3 way was still leaking but I was getting better pressure readings from the LPR and decided to try and change the 3 way O-rings one more time thinking the Overpressure might have ruined them. and... it worked! no leaks, cyles really nicely. this all jives with Docs post above so...

        I still need to do a full set of o-rings on the LPR to ensure it doesn't get wierd for awhile.

        does anyone have a breakdown of the ID o-ring sizes in the LPR and Ram? - BW mentioned some are metric? I know the 3 ways are, and some other o-rings seem to be slightly offsize from standard so its hard to be sure. See above

        bit of a bummer cause i just ordered up some ID re-build kits but now i feel i cant trust them! - and finally buying something "new" (inception pneumatics) after so many years of used parts off MCB only to have to re-build it right off the bat. Ram Bumpers PE, WGP, ID, Empire, KAPP – Docfire Paintball

        now that it works though i love this marker - smoothest cocker i've ever shot, great pull with the gunfighter frame and the ID front end is light and working great now.

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