Pre-2K Questions

[BlindFaith429]

Recently picked up a pre-2K Shocktech off evil-bay, and will be doing a full tear-down, inspection and rebuild of the gun. Will post a couple pics when it gets here.

I know I will need some parts (have already ordered most of them), but this will be my first full tear-down of an autococker.

Little back-story on me, I use to play recreationally with friends / family. My last marker I played with was a Shocker SFT, and got out of paintball about the time the Ion was being introduced.

I later bought an Etek 2 when they were new, with hopes of playing again, but sold it at the end of the summer due to not using it.

I did have an older Shocktech SFT around the time I had the Shocker, so I'm not new to the platform. Oh how I wish I still had that gun.

Anyways, this will be my first teardown of a pre-2K, so wanted to see if there is anything I should be on the look-out for. I know about the different valve sizes and front-blocks, back blocks and bolts, etc.

One question I know I will have, is with the older-style IVG. Never messed with one before and will need to figure that part out.

Also, is it worth it to buy a valve tool? or is there another way to get around that?

Thanks!

[OpusX]

Valve tool is a must. You can either buy one, or try the old modify a socket method. I would just buy one.

Valves are the same for all the WGP cockers (sans the Trilogy and 05 Black Magic I believe, which are 11/16), 9/16 for pre-2k, and 2k+.

Depending on how old the body is the IVG may be "modern". The threaded body IVG was the standard from 98 on, 97 and older had the plug style IVG. They aren't complicated.

[BlindFaith429]

Thanks for the quick reply. I should have it this week and will take some pics.

[glaman5266]

Anyways, this will be my first teardown of a pre-2K, so wanted to see if there is anything I should be on the look-out for. I know about the different valve sizes and front-blocks, back blocks and bolts, etc.

You can use 2k+ bolts with a 2k+ backblock in pre-2k cockers, and vice-versa. But you'll need BOTH the backblock and bolt to be the same (2k+ or pre-2k) for that to work. You could put a 2k+ bolt and backblock in a pre-2k, or a pre-2k bolt and backblock in a 2k+ cocker. P-blocks or other custom backblocks are obviously the exceptions.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Nice, never knew that about the bolt and back block.

[glaman5266]

Yeah, I didn’t either until a year or so ago when I posted a topic about something or other in this subforum. Opens up a few options.

[Cavemanpaintball]

Definitely recommend inception pneumatics, very easy to time, and have wrench flats where you would want them.

[BlindFaith429]

Funny you say that, the gun is coming with a set of new Inception pneumatics on the front. Was considering swapping them for a set of Shocktech parts, since it is a Shocktech AC.

HOWEVER, the set of Inception parts were custom colored blue to match the gun, so I may leave them for the time being.

[BlindFaith429]

Okay, got the gun tonight. Very pleased with it for the price I paid and the condition. I probably paid a little too much by the standards on here, but im pleased and that's all that counts.

It is the standard IVG as previously mentioned, so win on that.

Not sure who makes the barrel, but it looks pretty nice. Will have to try to measure the bore, as I dont see any marks (and was probably made prior to people caring about the bore size).

Not sure what brand the bolt is, looks like a combination of delrin and either stainless or aluminum.

inception parts look brand new, other than the marks on the ram shaft where it looks like the wrong wrench / adjustable was used, and boogered it up a little.

Have some parts for it en-route, to make it a little more my style / liking. Will also be doing a full tear-down and rebuild with new o-rings.

[OpusX]

That is a Shocktech SupaFly bolt

[Hellion360]

That barrel is a J&J BTW
Looks like the ones that came with WGP STO 2k2 year

[Alexndl]

Nice Shocktech Vortex, from what I understand its quite rare with only 25 made in this fade blue to silver pattern.
I use to have one and still regret selling it (had the jewel on mine).

With the inception pneu you got a really nice machine (usually have shocktech front end with the shocktech bomb 3 way)
Seem to be missing the shocktech trigger plate but the rest of the part seem all there.

[BlindFaith429]

Here are the guys to my slider frame. I'm missing the trigger return spring, but already have one en-route.

I don't like the looks of the trigger plate. That chrome chipping off doesn't look like it would slide nicely on the aluminum body. Plus it doesn't look like the original trigger plate. Will be ordering a replacement for sure.

On the plus side, the current sear is a roller variant. May give it a quick polish prior to re-installing it.

[latches109]

Order a new shockteck plate & sear.
What hammer and valve are in there? I have an abundance of ST hammers.

[BlindFaith429]

No idea yet. I have a valve tool on order from Autococker Parts dot com, along with o-rings, and a couple other little parts.

[BlindFaith429]

Got the hammer out. No marking on it, so don't know what brand. Will have to wait for the valve tool to get the valve out.

[BlindFaith429]

Out of curiosity, I pulled the valve lock set screw and looked down the hole. The valve looks to be brass inside, which would make me think stock WGP.

[BlindFaith429]

Thanks for the heads up. Any way to tell once it is out?

[latches109]

high flow stock, eclipse, ccm, and palmers are all brass too. If the valve is drilled all the way through it can only be stock, eclipse, or palmers. The old rat valves were flat on the bottom, ccm have the cone divet. Seeing your hammer is stock I would guess the valve is too.

[BlindFaith429]

The valve was brass, and it had a flat spot for the set screw to seat onto. Based on your description, it sounds like an old Rat Valve.

Nice to know considering I was expecting a stock WGP valve to match the stock WGP hammer.

[BlindFaith429]

How are the older aluminum dual roller bearing sears? The ones with the bearing at the frame cross-pin and the roller on the trigger? Gimmick or actually worth it?

[Brokeass_baller]

Aluminum? I don't know of any aluminum sears. I imagine they'd get chewed up pretty quickly.

Roller sears in general are pretty nice. But I couldn't tell a big difference between my Shocktech, Telios, and WGP roller sears. I can tell you that the Telios roller bearing trigger plate has made a massive difference in the trigger pull, though. I run the full Telios kit now.

[BlindFaith429]

Brokeass_baller Here's a pic of the one's I'm talking about. I assumed they were aluminum due to the colors and the bolt-on "wedge" for the sear contact point.