Pre-2K Questions

[BlindFaith429]

Got my guts out today. Brass valve, no markings, but the flat for the set screw would indicate an old RAT Valve per latches109

Got my o-ring kit in from Autococker parts dot com.

Now to do a full detail cleaning on all the parts, and finish collecting items for re-build.

Only thing left that im waiting on is a trigger plate and new roller sear.

Have a could other little mods ill be doing too once the parts come in.

At this point, I dont really have more questions. I'll probably do a new thread with the complete parts list and rebuild pics.

[BlindFaith429]

Looks like I'm missing the little clear-white sealing "washer" as well. I'll have to pick one up.

[latches109]

no sealing washer - cup seal should be embedded to the back of the brass cap.

[BlindFaith429]

The sealing washer im talking about is the one between the valve and the valve nut. The newer RAT valves show a clear-white "washer" there.

Do the older brass valves not use a seal there?

[Jordan]

I'm not a fan of the original Rat valves... they were a big improvement back in the day but 2k+ spec WGP valves outperform them in most areas in my opinion.

If you really want to stay all original, keep it, but I think you'd be better served with a different valve.

[BlindFaith429]

How do the old ones compare to the new RAT Valve? Worth the $40? I'd like to keep a ST valve in it.

[Jordan]

IMO, there's no comparison, really... old Rats were an improvement on the old Sheridan based valves, the new Rat valves are purpose built for improved flow characteristics and lowered operating pressures.

Having used both a Rat and Rat 3:16, I'd take the 3:16 any day... and the newest version seems even better.

[latches109]

yep those old rat valves are terrible, you should mail it to me... I'll be sure to dispose of it properly..

[BlindFaith429]

Thanks for the comments. I'm going to run the old valve for now. I've already spent a ton in parts (sear, trigger plate, ASA parts, o-rings, phat hammer, detent, springs).