Hey guys, I've had my fair share of timing autocockers (probably a dozen or so without issue) so I'm not a total noob, but I'm building up an old Orracle and I ordered all new pneumatics from inception designs. I got the kit with their latest 3way and it's a bear to time and/or get it to not leak profusely. I've looked around a bit and am confused on one thing. The orientation of the hoses. I'm running a Dye hinge frame so when I initially built it I had the rear barb of the 3way connected to the rear of the ram and the front barb to the front. I then noticed on PBN back in 2016 Simon from inception said: "When installing on a hinge frame, you need to swap the front and rear hoses so that the rear barb on the three way connects to the front of the ram, and the front barb on the three way connects to the rear of the ram." So that's just weird to me but I assume since it's a 3 o-ring design it can work this way. I've now gone through 2 full tanks of air and can adjust front to back and it never stops leaking from either the vent holes or the front or the back all together. Anyone have one of these that they've timed with a hinge frame give me some pointers? About ready to put my old shitty chrome flaked 3way back on....
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Inception Designs 3way timing trouble
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I just upgraded my Oracle 3-way to an ID 3-way. I have a stock WGP hinge on it. Front of ram goes to back of 3-way, back of ram goes to front of 3-way.
For timing, when I pull my trigger it pushes the timing rod forward, like a standard swing trigger. So I pull the trigger
and then set the timing rod flush with the front of the ID-way way.
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Seconding this. Just installed ID 3 way on mine (hinge) as well. set the actuator flush with the front of the housing with your trigger in the 'pulled' position. I had to go a few more turns in to get mine timed in the right spot, but this should clear the leak and get you started.
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OK, glad to know I've got the hoses right. Still leaks out the front and when I fire it stays in a cocked back position.
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First things first.
Disconnect your hoses from your ram side. Run a hose directly from the LPR to the ram. This will let you check if the leak is from the ram piston. If air flows right through then it is your ram that needs attention. This can make it seem like a 3way issue because the air comes out from the hose leading to the 3-way.
If your ram is not leaking, change out your orings on the 3way spool.
When your trigger is pulled the front of the spool should come almost to the front of the 3-way body but not poke out the end.
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Well as an update I hooked the LPR directly to the RAM and it does not leak. So I'm guessing it's the 3way orings. It's really frustrating because it's so hard to tell where it's leaking from. There's so many little exhaust holes I can never tell what one it's coming from in the moment. Also can't get it to cycle (while leaking) either. I adjusted it to near flush with the trigger pulled and no dice. Wont cock back. I adjusted it further and it does move the backblock back some but then won't return when I let off the trigger. Move it further back and nothing at all. I'm at my wits end and out of air again. Anyone want to trade for a bomb 3way? lol
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I think your timing is way off. When the trigger is pulled back the spool in the 3-way will go forward on a hinge frame and end up not flush but just a little back from flush with the front of the 3 way housing. With the trigger at rest (not pulled) my 3 way shaft is about 1/8" back from the front of the housing. Leaking like that is also a sign that your timing is too far advanced. It's right on the edge of the exhaust port and venting. Keep screwing the timing back (inwards aka clockwise viewed from the front). Also up your LPR pressure to rule out the o-rings leaking from lack of pressure. The LPR pressure too low will not put enough pressure on the o-rings to force them to seal. You should have to use a good amount of force to pull the backblock back against the ram pressure.
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Yeah I started with it flush with trigger depressed and have been moving it further back. Like I air it up, starts leaking, then use an allen key and start turning/adjusting it back till its practically coming out the back and at no point does it stop leaking. Like I've timed cockers before and it just doesn't make sense.
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This is frustrating. Because 3 minutes in my hand and I could diagnose the problem. I could try to talk you through this for 3 weeks and not get it anywhere.
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So as a follow up to this I never could get it to work on my Orracle. However I threw it on my old superstock converted to mech and had 0 issues with leaks and was able to easily time it. Weird. Just because I was curious I took my Dye hinge off my Orracle and put it on the superstock and the 3-way leaked and I was not able to time it or get it to stop leaking again. Put the old WGP frame back on and the 3-way worked great. So basically it doesn't like my Dye hinge frame and I have no idea why lol....
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Originally posted by Super69ur View PostOkay I have a theory then. Was the front block not aligned properly?
was it the correct timing rod hole height?
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Originally posted by Super69ur View PostThis literally doesn’t make sense. If it works in other cockers but not this one, something is off. And it’s not the 3-way.
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