Bolt Action + Mag Fed Autococker Recommendations

[Toestr]

Basically my goal is to build the most mechanically accurate dedicated first strike flinger, while still being practical for use.

I got the basic idea for this guy from this Bacci video:

https://youtu.be/ZRGoivvzTiY

I would like to make something similar, but with a mag feed capability.

Yes, I'm aware of the ADN gun and the SSR, but I can't leave well enough alone.

So what are some parts recommendations? Bodies, bolts, hammers, etc?

Any help would be appreciated.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[SinisterKid]

I think a magfed cocker would be awesome. I was tossing around some ideas for something like that in my head a while back and I settled on some brainstorm conclusions:
The super eas ly thing would be mill a new breach coming 90 degrees off to the right side and attach a magwell. No need to mess with the pneumatics setup or bolt or trigger. Almost like a sten gun magazine. If you wanted to go down harder routes...
Ideally you'd want to flip the tube stack upside down to have the barrel on the bottom and valves on the top, this way you can place your mag and breach in a reasonable/standard place and maybe even use a standard bolt. The issue here is that you'd have to find a way to get the trigger to drop the sear from around the bolt and that could lead to a complicated trigger or one that isn't smooth to pull or release. You could always make the trigger and 3 way an electro. Maybe an e blade defeats the spirit of a FS ready autococker but it would lead to super short trigger pulls and that would help prevent moving your point of aim while pulling through a longer pull.
To sort of remedy the tube stack issue, I saw a cool thread a while back where someone made a cocker with the pneumatics sitting on the back of the marker and that setup would do wonders for your project. I would think making a front block that fits a mag between or around it would be problematic to say the least so you would have more freedom upfront to mount a magwell if the pneumatics weren't in the way.
if you did a traditional tube stack you'd probably have to get a longer bolt not to mention body since the balls wouldn't be dropping in over the bolt but instead coming in a few inches further right at where the lpr would normally sit. MCS does a cool thing in their 468 rifles to catch balls and feed well despite the mag being under a lower tube, they use a ball catch to retain two shots in the body do none fall out when you pull out your mag.
last but night least you NEED anti rollout fingers because you cannot underbore first strike rounds. Getting one stuck good down your barrel especially with rifling sucks major.

That all made sense to me in my head and was pretty much a daydream so I'm open to explain anything I said. Thanks for reading my rant.

[Toestr]

I think a magfed cocker would be awesome. I was tossing around some ideas for something like that in my head a while back and I settled on some brainstorm conclusions:
The super eas ly thing would be mill a new breach coming 90 degrees off to the right side and attach a magwell. No need to mess with the pneumatics setup or bolt or trigger. Almost like a sten gun magazine. If you wanted to go down harder routes...
Ideally you'd want to flip the tube stack upside down to have the barrel on the bottom and valves on the top, this way you can place your mag and breach in a reasonable/standard place and maybe even use a standard bolt. The issue here is that you'd have to find a way to get the trigger to drop the sear from around the bolt and that could lead to a complicated trigger or one that isn't smooth to pull or release. You could always make the trigger and 3 way an electro. Maybe an e blade defeats the spirit of a FS ready autococker but it would lead to super short trigger pulls and that would help prevent moving your point of aim while pulling through a longer pull.
To sort of remedy the tube stack issue, I saw a cool thread a while back where someone made a cocker with the pneumatics sitting on the back of the marker and that setup would do wonders for your project. I would think making a front block that fits a mag between or around it would be problematic to say the least so you would have more freedom upfront to mount a magwell if the pneumatics weren't in the way.
if you did a traditional tube stack you'd probably have to get a longer bolt not to mention body since the balls wouldn't be dropping in over the bolt but instead coming in a few inches further right at where the lpr would normally sit. MCS does a cool thing in their 468 rifles to catch balls and feed well despite the mag being under a lower tube, they use a ball catch to retain two shots in the body do none fall out when you pull out your mag.
last but night least you NEED anti rollout fingers because you cannot underbore first strike rounds. Getting one stuck good down your barrel especially with rifling sucks major.

That all made sense to me in my head and was pretty much a daydream so I'm open to explain anything I said. Thanks for reading my rant.

I was already thinking a sten style magazine for it, just to minimize on the problems you described. Also the bolt action aspect would eliminate the problem of pneumatics or a pump.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[SinisterKid]

I was already thinking a sten style magazine for it, just to minimize on the problems you described. Also the bolt action aspect would eliminate the problem of pneumatics or a pump.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I'm getting it now, the "autococker" in the title led me down a semi auto road not a bolt road. Thinking about it from that perspective all you would need to make it a "bolt" is a handle coming off the back block to yank to recock and rechamber a ball. I'm thinking essentially essentially the equivalent of one of those rear pull handles for hammer 7s that cross over to both sides so you don't torque the bolt and mechanism so hard pulling from only the right side where your bolt handle sits.
would a 2k2 slab body be a good option? Lots of flat surfaces to attach a magwell or picatinny rails to as well as no weird milling to work around for your bolt handle.
A light trigger would be ideal as well as a setup for the lower tube that would make your cocking rod as easy as possible to pull back. The bolt itself would glide easy, the most difficult bit of the pull would be racking it all the way back to reset the hammer and sear.

[Toestr]

I was thinking some sort of rf slab or a trilogy.
A slab would give me a clean sight line for feeding, but a trilogy would let me use an 11/16th valve (I like them better for the dual seals). Which would be easier to plug the front block hole(s) on?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Freerider_79]

wouldn’t be hard to mill a channel in the side for a bolt knob...
drill and tap a hole in the side of the bolt. I’m new to cockers but do a little machining... the mag thing looks a little tricky

[stealthfox1]

Maybe this is interesting for you...

[stealthfox1]

Yes FS can be used

[Freerider_79]

I really like how that looks with the tank up top. Just found a website.... www.adnpaintball.com they do magfed pump and semi with the mag coming in from the bottom. Looks pretty nice but hard to tell how everything interacts.
The original question was “bolt action, mag fed” my understanding is none of the front pneumatics would be required....?
what do you think about a mini body... instead of attaching a front block, make a “mag well/pup piece” that fits up front. Move the barrel forward.... feed the air directly into the bottom tube.... longer bolt...
I don’t do much cad but I’ll try and do a quick hand sketch
Again I’m pretty new to cockers. just picked up my first ‘98 and a 2k, both basically stock.

[Freerider_79]

I warned you about my art skills...

[Toestr]

Yes FS can be used

I like it, just don't have the resources to do something like this, as I basically only have hand tools and a drill press.

For a bolt, I was thinking just using an oversized bolt pin to grab. Check out the video in the OP to see the system I'm looking to use.

My main concern right not is finding a body that will let me plug it most easily, while still getting the features I'm looking for.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Freerider_79]

Yeah so I kinda blew past the video and missed the mention of ADN.... would be pretty simple to do what’s in the vid but would have to take a serious look at the mag part. With the basic tools, it’s hard to do the more complicated stuff.....for a guy with some cnc skills this could probably be something.
I built an air gun a few years ago which kinda resembles the one in the video but never thought to look at paintball guns. The autococker bottom tube is exactly how I need to finish it.

[stealthfox1]

I warned you about my art skills...

the bolt will not clear the breach. you also have to put the feed forward if this should work

[Freerider_79]

I get what you’re saying.... kinda. Can you not change the length of the cocking rod to accommodate? still learning. If there’s a will, there’s a way. Always comes down to how much time and money a guy wants to throw at it. And if it’s a one of a kind or some kind of kit

[Toestr]

Ok guys, I think I will be using a trilogy body; mostly for the 11/16 valve, but also for the price and availability. How hard would it be to plug the front block?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk