Finally made an account! Need some input please!

[TomDuece]

OK so my son attended a PB bday party 2 weekends ago and it got my PB juices flowing again after about a 15-20 year break!

I'm dealing with some information overload since in my spare time I've read every post and reply in this Autococker forum, downloaded and read the eblade manual, as well as trying to catch up on changes in the PB world for the last decade or two.

Dug out an old cocker I got in a trade years ago and getting it ready to go play. Ordered some stuff online (no actual PB store around here) like seals, springs, valve tool, macroline, pneumatic hose, vert ASA, CP reg, ID on/off ASA, new eye, JT lenses, and sent my tank to be Hydrotested.

This forum has been a great resource of information, but a few questions remain. I apologize if these have already been answered or are "obvious" answers, but my brain is fried now.

Questions in no particular order:

1. Going off the serial # looks like this is a 2000 or 2001 body and other than the KAPP logo, dont know much else about it. Is this just a "FrankenCocker"? Don't know details about LPR/RAM, back block is Shocktech. Has a Rex dialer, some kind of Venturi bolt (getting blowback), and a green valve (just got valve tool in today, will disassemble tonight).

2. I was under the impression Rex dialers were "older" parts? And it seems there are the "longer" 2" springs in there? Haven't got a chance to chrono it yet, but I feel that's gonna be an issue. New spring kit are 2" also (for the most part) I'll measure those too. Probably gonna need an IVG?

3. Gun had a WGP reg on it, how do those compare to CP regs? Changed it out for comfort/looks mostly, tore it apart and cleaned it, looked fine. Just curious.

4. I have a Hyperflow 420 bottle reg in my parts box, was going to put that on my tank when it gets back from Hydro. Tank is a Pure Energy/Empire tank, the reg I pulled off didn't have any markings on it. Wondering if the Hyperflow will still be better or have they improved on that technology and 6 year old bottle regs are just as good? Like I said, no markings on reg so I don't know anything about it. Side note: also have a LP MaxFlo manifold reg I could put on the bottle if I can get the gun running on that low of pressure but don't know if I want to try and then same question about newer regs as above.

5. I mentioned the bolt and blowback, bolt has a 90° air hole path and the venturi face, seems like that would restrict airflow, or does that not matter? Has the 2 Orings on either side of air hole, but not at tip, next ball shoots up from feed neck about 2ft high.

6. This not a removable feedneck correct?? I tried turning it but didnt want to wrench on it too much. Want to do a adjustable feed next mod if not, any recommendations for that?

7. Got a new eye since old wasn't working, wasn't showing a difference in sensitivity with bolt open or closed, hoping new eye gets that resolved. But if not, I have 2 VL 12v Revolutions, I think those should still feed fast enough (hopefully) correct? I reset the eblade to factory settings (fast), it's an E1 board I think? V1.06 when I turn it on.

Well, I think that's it for now. I'll probably remember 4 more questions after I post this. Any help, input, or recommendations from you guys will help! Now to see if i can actually post some pictures!

Thanks,
Tom

[TomDuece]

Last picture is the only "green" valve I could find on the internet search. I'll look closer when I break it down tonight.

[Mr. Hick]

I don't have a ton of information for you, except that the bolt is a delrin EVO bolt, made by besales.

[TomDuece]

Well that's more than I knew 20 minutes ago, so I appreciate it Mr. Hick!

[Mr. Hick]

As for blowback on that bolt, just replace your bolt o-rings with something fresher and they will seal up better.

[TomDuece]

Will do. Thank you.

[coyote]

The body is what is refered to as a Kapp Classic. It's a desirable custom house body kit produced at Kick Ass Paintball products in Santa Rosa CA. Around 1999/2000.

It looks like you upgraded with a full "Nexus kit" which was available as an upgrade over the eblade kit and included a bolt, lower tube internals, and front end components. Some of those parts seem to have we been replaced.

Frankencocker for sure, but with nice parts. If it was a good shooter back in the day there's little need to swap parts out.

[TomDuece]

I appreciate the info! Knew it was KAPP but that's it. Couldn't really find much other info.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Welcome to MCB! That cocker’s a great guy with some very nice upgrades. You should be able to get it up and running. And you can easily change it to a mech cocker or a pump if you decide and electro is too much or doesn’t work well for you.

3) The WGP regs are generally considered good. Looks to be a black magic reg, which are nice. The CP regs are great too, offer alrighty different ergonomics. I run CP regs on most my cockers/sniper but have a WGP Karni reg on one and it’s need been a problem. Go with what you think looks better and feels nicer in your hand.

[TomDuece]

Nice to officially be here! Thanks, it ran ok last time I played with it about 7 years ago, threw that duck bill ASA on it in a pinch and went with it. A tiny leak or two and inconsistent velocity, but it had been sitting for 10 years or so. Think I've shot this thing 3 different occasions in 20 years! Never used an electro cocker before this, was looking for mech grip frames but they seem to be rare or $200+, is that normal now??

Yeah seemed that WGP was fine, but much prefer black vert ASA and the slim feel!

Thanks for the info!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Mechanical cockers are quite popular again and there’s a few different places that make mechanical trigger frames. Most frames are pretty pricy though. Autocockerparts.com has some, as does Inception Designed. If going Mech you need a 3-way as well, and Inception Designs make a really good one I highly recommend.

[TomDuece]

Yeah I wasn't sure if it was my age/inflation, scarcity of parts, or both but I was blown away at the grip frame prices! I've looked at Inception's stuff and seems pretty nice. I'm loving that on/off ASA, I'm assuming their AC stuff is pretty legit since I see everyone raving about it. Seems like they put a lot of thought into their designs, which I like. I'm kinda partial to Shocktech since I grew up in Chicago, but either of those two companies seem like quality stuff!

[latches109]

Send it to me and I'll take care of you. I'll swap the frame for a dye slider, sto chrome lpr, eye cover, time and get it going for you : in exchange for the frame and solenoid on it now.

or I have can change all the Chorome for black parts.

[TomDuece]

I might take you up on that in the future Latches! I'm partial to mechanical. But I need to get this running for the next month or 2 as it currently sits. I like the chrome for black parts idea, never been a chrome guy, just the way I got the gun. Looks a bit better with the vertical asa and CP reg now I think!

[JonM]

As for the tank, if you’ve been out of the game for 15 to 20 years, then there’s a good chance that your old tank is dead.

[TomDuece]

Roger that. Had to discard my tank that came off the MaxFlo since it was past the 15 year mark. The one I sent was one I bought online real quick in order to play in a hurry 7 years ago or so. I think it was a 2014 date. Yeah, checked out that DOT site mentioned on here to try to get it hydrotested locally, but none of them did paintball tanks.

[WORR13]

lpr is a kapp, ram is clippard (looks bent in pic, maybe just the pic?). only green valve i could think of is shocktech rat valve.
rex dialer is good parts, get it running and see how it shoots/check velocities. they came with matched springs
personally like WGP regs and they work well
unmarked tank reg is likely cheepo or possibly pure energy, modern regs are better. dont think maxflow lp may not output enough psi u need to check the range on it
thats a good bolt -as stated check the orings on it, and check/adjust your timing for the blowback to start. also check that ram- it looks bent in the pic -its also not rebuildable (likely need replace, definitly if bent)
that feedneck may be removable, almost looks like it in pic. take a pic of the bottom of the feedneck from the side, if there's a seem its probably removable (oring prolly dry and stuck)
12v revi should feed that thing well. unless u can really walk that trigger faster than around 10-12bps

[TomDuece]

On the RAM does the front look slightly higher that it should be?? Because I kinda thought that but attributed it to my old eyes. Since it's not rebuildable how do I know when it needs replacing? When it totally fails or is there something else to look for? If it's a little bent, but still cycles the boat fine, you think I'm good to still go with it?

Upon tear down, it is a rat valve. Main seal was smashed down pretty good, that's probably why I needed a dowel and rubber mallet to get it out! Haha!

That MaxFlo starts bleeding off at 240psi (I'm quoting the manual, I haven't actually done it), so that's a long shot on getting the gun to run 220ish I think.

Gotta reread that eblade manual for terminology on the settings again. But basically set the bolt to start cocking a little longer than currently set to reduce blowback? Is that what you're saying?

That's exactly what I was thinking for the feedneck! I saw that seam, took a picture. There are already some tool marks on a few places on the gun so didn't want to add more, but thought it should come off, doesn't look like a solid piece.

And I suck at the electro trigger, so can definitely say I'm probably not at the 12bps!

Thanks for all the info Worr, I'll post thay feedneck pic below.

[TomDuece]

[WORR13]

yeah thats a threaded feedneck, ur lucky. i think my kapp has one too (would have to dig it out to check). try some heat (heat gun or hair dryer) and a strap wrench or something similar to get feedneck off (a leather belt or rubber piece will help so u dont damage the feedneck)
i would replace the ram, its going to further destroy itself when it cycles. u dont want it ruining anything else on the gun. it could be part of ur blowback problem too.
i would- replace the ram, recheck the mechanical timing, and set the eblade to a factory setting and see how it shoots
excellent eblade/autococker info- http://www.moodypb.com/cart/index.ph...a0377htlbsu4n2
yeah 220-240psi is to low for blessed autococker.
its lookin better already btw. do you have the original back block?

[TomDuece]

Thanks I'll try that to get the feedneck off and look for a new ram. That moodypb has some good info thanks! And sadly no, never got the original back block.