I picked up an 05 black magic awhile back and it’s stuck in demo mode. I’ve downloaded the manual but it doesn’t say anything about how to switch the modes. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
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05 black magic stuck in demo mode
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Clapper solenoid, in the grip frame
What's it doing? Because there was no "demo" mode on either the e2 or select fire frames which are the only 2 that should be on that marker
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I tried to upload a video but can’t figure that out either 🤦♂️ The light is flashing red and orange (maybe yellow?) according to the manual that’s demo mode. I’m pretty sure this is the manual. https://www.paintballsolutions.com/0.../WORRFRAME.pdf
I’m attaching some pictures of the marker so hopefully that will Yelp show which model I’m talking about.2 Photos
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Ok few things
1) you were right, there is a demo mode, I've just never encountered it before and the manual doesn't give any clear instructions on how to exit it.
2) have you tried a new battery? For 2 reasons, 1, the board is supposed to tell you how the battery is doing.... With red and yellow lights, just like it tries to tell you everything else with 2, when the battery gets low, the clapper noid is the first thing to stop working, so it could be a case that it's not in demo mode but the battery is just low
3) try bridging two of the contacts on the board, I'm not sure if that will kick it out of demo mode or not, but worth a try
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If you need the jumper, measure the pitch (distance) between 2 of the pins. Something similar to this should work to allow you to select firing mode.
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Tried a new battery and no dice. By bridging 2 contacts do you means the pins the jumper goes on? Thanks for the link definitely gonna measure them and order some.
when replacing the battery it looks like the terminals/connectors are mis aligned and the positive one is separating from the board. I think this is getting beyond my capabilities. Anyone have any recommendations on where I could send this to just get it tuned up and running like a top again? My brother told me about someone named Cockertop but I don’t have social media and apparently that’s the only way to reach the guy.
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Pretty sure I have one of those jumpers in my room of doom. But i thought no jumper meant semi.
It honestly seems like the training mode circuit is shorted out. Lets see the board on the other side. Is there a bad path or a short or something?
I can send you my extra jumper just to try, but it see.s something else is wrong here.
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Originally posted by ThatDude812 View PostTried a new battery and no dice. By bridging 2 contacts do you means the pins the jumper goes on? Thanks for the link definitely gonna measure them and order some.
when replacing the battery it looks like the terminals/connectors are mis aligned and the positive one is separating from the board. I think this is getting beyond my capabilities. Anyone have any recommendations on where I could send this to just get it tuned up and running like a top again? My brother told me about someone named Cockertop but I don’t have social media and apparently that’s the only way to reach the guy.
If you want to send it somewhere I can help you out, it will get a full rebuild and service while I'm at it. I can resolder that battery contact as well. I just had to do that for one of my hoppers actually. I can't promise anything because if it is a board issue those are sometimes just a "replace the board" situation but that would be a last resort for sure. If you are interested shoot me a pm
As for bridging the contacts, yes, anything metal that can touch both contacts should work. I've seen people use staples before. You can also just hold a screwdriver to the contacts and pull the trigger for testing.
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Last edited by Trbo323; 05-22-2022, 11:53 AM.I use Tapatalk which does NOT display comments. If you want me to see it, make it a post not a comment.
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Ill try to help best I can. Its worth sending to Trbo if hes got the time to re solder it. I could also solder it, but Id rather just send you the frame and board I have.. I also have a select fire frame with board collecting dust so Id sell it fairly cheap if it came down to it.
But if you look at the attached image. ill try to explain my thoughts.
I went and dug my frame out, and I now realize. There is no training mode on these boards.. no jumper is semi, bottom jumper is ramping, middle is 3 round burst, top is full auto. I will still send you the jumper I have if you wanna rip with your shooter.
That being said, something else it messed up that you aren't striking the valve open ( springs, wiring or something.)
The clapper noid that runs your sear goes in the lower of the two plugs. The pneumatic noid that runs your ram back and forth goes in the upper plug. If you have these swapped, timing may be off causing issue, so start with that.
If thats not it. You should be able to try a few things.
1st Id pull the bolt back with no air on the marker. Does the sear catch the hammer?
Then push the bolt forward, add air and pull the trigger.. is that any different?
Then Id try to push the manual pilot on the solenoid. Does that have enough power to fully open the bolt and latch the sear? You may need more lpr pressure. ( there should be a little orange button on the solenoid on the front block) your IVG may be buried too far not allowing the hammer to get back far enough to latch the sear too. Get that back to flush to start if its any more that 1/4" into the body. This may be the effect of your hpr being set to low or something. There's quite a bit of "balance" that has to happen in a cocker.
Try taking the frame off carefully and cycling the pilot on the solenoid if nothing makes sense at this point. You should be able to see the hammer stroke back and forth, and Id think when re closing the hammer would semi open the valve causing a small shot sound.
If the sear is latching, solenoids strong, timing looks right, and still nothing. Then the valve may be jammed, or the valve may need a lighter spring to allow the hammer to open it. you can take the hammer out and depress the valve pin with wood dowel to make sure it opens.
You may also need a new hammer spring. if that feels weak.
Lastly, your ram piston may be way out of adjustment so it essentially runs out of travel And your hammer just smacks the hammer lug rather than hitting the valve.
Honestly after giving this some real thought, i think we are barking up the wrong tree man.2 Photos
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