Quick Compo - 2k vs Pre-2k Cockers

[latches109]

post reg pressure
and using short valve body springs?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Need to see what pressure the Palmer is set to. I have a tester, just need to use it. I replaced the original valves with standard WGP valves.

[latches109]

What is your reg pressure set to?

Original valve = early pre 2k pictured above?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Finally got to get the Chronograph out and test these pre-2ks. Both had the same issue, velocity around 180fps. I focused on the unreg’d sniper and put the original valve spring back in and tried to get velocity with the main springs. After some guessing and checking, went with a red madman spring which brought velocity up to about 260 with the IVG out. Should be able to fine tune it a little more.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Breaker the golden rule of Autocockers, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I’ve come across an anomaly with my Banjo bolts. The tolerances on the ‘92 cocker are tighter than on the ‘96 cocker, so much so that the banjo bolt from the ‘96 and an ANS expansion port won’t fit. The ‘92 banjo will fit in the ‘96 body without issue.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So I find myself struggling with the C-clip 3-way. Changed to a threaded timing rod, but can’t seem to find a good spot for it. I think my rod length is too long as set as I am getting barely any movement of the timing rod or it will
just sort of jam. The pot metal frame leave a bit to desire in its movement as well. Might be better to get it all working with my Shocktech frame first.

I’m not a huge fan of these c-clip 3-way and may switch to a brass 2k 3-way as I found them easier to work with. I want to keep the front end brass for the asthetic. It have the pneumatic cover though, so when it doubt I can throw an ID 3-way on just got ease of use and adjustment.

On a side note if you forget to put the c-clip back in and air the marker up that cap goes flying.

Update: Switched the trigger frame and confirmed the 3-way was set way too long. Adjusted the coupler back and have proper movement now and the back block cycles. It wasn’t releasing the sear at first, but a quick adjusted fixed that, so the old beast is up and running now. Once I get it all working nicely I’ll see about switching back to the potmetal frame.

[Jordan]

The older c-clip 3ways can be quite nice if polished out and stem seals matched up to the internals... they have a pretty short throw. Timing is the same as any other 3way, in my limited experience. (I haven't used any of the current 3ways on the market, just the early to mid 2k era 3ways.)

[Cdn_Cuda]

Got both the mech and pump sealed up. Need to figure out the timing on the mech as I’ve never used one of the older brass 3-ways. At first I was using an unthreaded 3-way rod and coupler, but switched to a threaded for ease of use.

Sniper needs some paint out through it and likely some spring adjustments. Have a feeling it’s shooting low.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Picked up a threadless IVG from a local with an exquisite marker collection. (Yes, tried to lure him back to MCB) and have the Sniper and Cocker moving along. Still need to play around with internal springs.

Rebuilt the pneumatics for the cocker. Firpo’s YouTube videos are a great resource on how to. Went with the 2k LPR as had one kicking around and matches the length of the ram nicely. Suits the build, as long as it works.

[Pump&Run]

As I work on restoring/ rebuilding one of these I’ll
comment of various issues I find. I’ve decided to build the oldest body that has no modifications. Let see how I do fair! I think I’ll build it as a Sniper first and then a mech, depending on how the pneumatic rebuilds go.

I was hoping to provoke such a continued endeavor. Though it is not my doing as you Sir had the mindset all along as this is your motivation and I compliment you on that.

[Cdn_Cuda]

That's very helpful!

[latches109]

old hammer lug is 10-32 ( pictured center - gen 1 belsales) - if you do not have a top lug nut hole adjustment on the body then the lug is flipped - but really it's a 10-32 set screw you can get at any hardware store. Some people got fancy and stripped the threads that made contact with the sear.

new is 1/4-28 (pictured right of center gen 2, and left of center gen 3)

[Cdn_Cuda]

Hit the first minor a gag as someone had previously mentioned. The threaded portion of the hammer lug is too thick at the threads. As this body has not lug adjustment hole I was just going to flip a stand hammer’s lug. Going to have to use the hammer from my unmodified ‘96 as it has a narrow lug. The modified ‘96 can use a standard hammer though, but ai need a threadless IVG before I can get the second body built.

[Cdn_Cuda]

As I work on restoring/ rebuilding one of these I’ll
comment of various issues I find. I’ve decided to build the oldest body that has no modifications. Let see how I do fair! I think I’ll build it as a Sniper first and then a mech, depending on how the pneumatic rebuilds go.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Also shows me the inside of the LPR, which is great as I am trying to rebuild the pneumatics!