For uglyduckling and anyone else interested.
AGD carbon fiber frames used to be cheap and plentiful, I expect they still are, relatively. Below is the third AGD frame I have put on a superbolt body. The first two used a small (#4) screw in the original trigger as a lever arm. This one uses a 3d printed trigger in PLA+CF.
Reused from the superbolt frame are the sear and sear spring. I think the sear pin is any steel piece of 1/8" rod. I remove and replace the safety assembly. Reuse the AGD trigger pin. Mine came out on the left side (drivers side USA), being pushed (punched) out from the right.
The sear pin goes exactly where the AGD frame has a nub on each side for aligning the grips. This is because single trigger (one-hole) grips fit on both autocockers and automags. **Before messing with the nubs, measure across them to get the length of the sear pin if you need it.** Use a razor saw or file to remove most of the nub (maybe from one side). Don't loose the location. Drill through the frame as straight as possible, leaving 1/8" holes where the nubs used to be. The sear pin just sits in there, where the grips keep it in. The AGD frame still has the vestige of the autococker sear return spring pocket, as seen from the top and the side.
The main trick is adapting the trigger to lift the front of the sear. I have drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the original trigger and installed a screw in the back of the trigger as a "finger" to lift the sear. The screw is either a set screw, or I dremeled the head off. Then I dremel the threads off on the top of the screw to make it smooth to run on the sear tip.
Because the position of the trigger screw/finger is critical, I went to a printed trigger on this marker. Either way, the finger makes getting the trigger back in the frame difficult. I file on the bottom edge and corners of the trigger first, moving to the top edge and lastly to the finger itself until I can push the modified trigger into the frame. Below is a link to the 3d print file. At a minimum, you can look at the picture and see where the finger is, so that you can mount a screw, or something else you might think of.
https://www.printables.com/model/444...utococker-body
Also, the top-of-the-back-of-the-trigger limits the forward rotation of the trigger. Clean and file that spot if necessary to get a perfect fit.
I think a slider plate would be easy to print and install, but I'm not sure about the return spring and the trigger shoe attachment.
AGD carbon fiber frames used to be cheap and plentiful, I expect they still are, relatively. Below is the third AGD frame I have put on a superbolt body. The first two used a small (#4) screw in the original trigger as a lever arm. This one uses a 3d printed trigger in PLA+CF.
Reused from the superbolt frame are the sear and sear spring. I think the sear pin is any steel piece of 1/8" rod. I remove and replace the safety assembly. Reuse the AGD trigger pin. Mine came out on the left side (drivers side USA), being pushed (punched) out from the right.
The sear pin goes exactly where the AGD frame has a nub on each side for aligning the grips. This is because single trigger (one-hole) grips fit on both autocockers and automags. **Before messing with the nubs, measure across them to get the length of the sear pin if you need it.** Use a razor saw or file to remove most of the nub (maybe from one side). Don't loose the location. Drill through the frame as straight as possible, leaving 1/8" holes where the nubs used to be. The sear pin just sits in there, where the grips keep it in. The AGD frame still has the vestige of the autococker sear return spring pocket, as seen from the top and the side.
The main trick is adapting the trigger to lift the front of the sear. I have drilled and tapped a #4-40 hole in the original trigger and installed a screw in the back of the trigger as a "finger" to lift the sear. The screw is either a set screw, or I dremeled the head off. Then I dremel the threads off on the top of the screw to make it smooth to run on the sear tip.
Because the position of the trigger screw/finger is critical, I went to a printed trigger on this marker. Either way, the finger makes getting the trigger back in the frame difficult. I file on the bottom edge and corners of the trigger first, moving to the top edge and lastly to the finger itself until I can push the modified trigger into the frame. Below is a link to the 3d print file. At a minimum, you can look at the picture and see where the finger is, so that you can mount a screw, or something else you might think of.
https://www.printables.com/model/444...utococker-body
Also, the top-of-the-back-of-the-trigger limits the forward rotation of the trigger. Clean and file that spot if necessary to get a perfect fit.
I think a slider plate would be easy to print and install, but I'm not sure about the return spring and the trigger shoe attachment.
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