Quick question on removing Trilogy valves

[MrBarraclough]

I've got a new Inception spring kit for my Trilogy and I'd like to respring the valve. I took the frame off the body and removed the set screw that retains the valve. I had also removed the main spring and hammer of course. Now what? The valve doesn't seem to want to move, I'm guessing due to the friction of the valve body o-rings. I know that Trilogies do not have jam nuts and so I do not need a cocker valve tool. But how do I get the valve out the back of the lower tube? Do I need to remove the LPR and push a dowel in from that side? I would really rather not monkey with the front pneumatics unless I absolutely had to. I tried putting the short end of an Allen wrech in the set screw hole and levering it against the inside of the valve, but I was afraid to use much force for fear of tearing up the threading in that set screw hole.

Related note: I am respringing this Trilogy because I was having to crank the IVG way too far in to achieve usable velocity, and even then was having difficulty hitting even 270. With the stiffest main spring from the ID kit plus a new ID IVG, now I'm barely breaking 250. I love the new ID IVG that can be adjusted without removing the cocking rod, but since it is so much longer/thicker than the stock one, I don't think it had be screwed in as far before it bottoms out on the body tube threads. Which is odd, considering that the new ID spring is longer than the spring I had before. Anyway, I'm thinking that I need to lighten the valve spring.

[Trbo323]

I'd get the LPR off and use a dowel. If the LPR is on properly you should be able to turn it by hand

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[MrBarraclough]

Afraid that would be the answer, but thanks. Yeah, the LPR appears to turn by hand. Even with the hoses attached it has some play in it already.

I'll need to replace the low pressure hose from the LPR afterwards, won't I? My understanding is that once I pop a hose off a barb fiting, it is never going to go back on securely, unless there's enough slack to cut off the worn end. Is that correct? I've had this cocker about a year and a half, but haven't really messed with the internals or pneumatics before. I went ahead and got a low pressure hose kit from Inception just in case when I ordered the springs.

[latches109]

Unscrew the LPR and swap springs.


You do not need to remove the valve.

[MrBarraclough]

Thanks. I was hoping to avoid having to redo any low pressure hoses, but I already bought some just in case.

[Magmoormaster]

What Latches said. As a heads up though, Trilogy valve springs are not the same as regular cockers. You'll need to cut down a spyder hammer spring.

[MrBarraclough]

Dammit. Thanks. Why is that the case anyway? Less room for the valve spring than traditional cockers? So I need something shorter but stiffer? If I'm needing to lighten the valve spring a bit, should I try cutting down the existing spring?

Does it matter that the current valve came out of an Empire Sniper?

[Brokeass_baller]

Cutting down Spyder hammer springs works very well.

[MrBarraclough]

Thanks. Could I try cutting down the existing spring if I need to lighten it? Or should I just get a full Spyder spring kit, cut them to size, and try out the different ones to find the correct stiffness?

[Magmoormaster]

It's actually longer. Quite a bit longer. They did it because it made the machining a lot easier. Keep costs down. Remember, Trilogies were a budget gun.

Angry Paintball made a small washer-type thing that allows you to use a standard cocker valve. You could look into that instead of getting a spyder hammer spring set.

[MrBarraclough]

Now I'm a little confused. I already don't have a Trilogy valve, as the previous owner, Cdn_Cuda, swapped in a valve from an Empire Sniper. So I take it the valve bodies are different lengths? I was thinking that the reason for the different spring lengths was that the body tube forward of the valve was a different length than traditional cockers due to the absence of a front block.

[Brokeass_baller]

The valve is your typical 11/16 valve. The valve chamber is longer. That's why Spyder springs work, and traditional Autococker springs do not

[latches109]

Brokeass_baller I think you mean larger.. the normal spring perch is not there, so we use a long spring with the LPR back as the perch.




photo credit DocsMachine

[Magmoormaster]

Yeah when I said “longer” I meant the spring, not the body. I see the confusion though. My comment is a bit incongruent.

[Brokeass_baller]

latches109 yeah, I guess that is what I meant. With the spring landing inside there, it's easy to forget there's extra volume on the other side of it.