Eblade - Issue with trigger pull

[BornAgain]

Hello all
First off many thanks for helping me in my other threads with my Dye Ultralight E-bladed cocker. I was able to clear all leaks and get the feedtube off. Now I'm trying my hand at learning the eblade (I've never had one before...always been an old school mech guy back in the day).

I'm not sure if I have an issue with the trigger pull or if it's just me lol. I've adjusted my trigger pull like I do on all my other markers (ie CS, Amp, etc). I adjusted it for a short pull with activation at the beginning and the stop right after activation... with a fairly stronger return.

My Ultralight does not have eyes. I purposely bought it like this so I can have the body in pristine condition without eye holes.

Non-gassed, I can single finger pull the trigger fairly quickly and I hear the clicks. However, whenever I try to walk the trigger with both fingers, it seems to engage and fire once every 4-5 or so pulls. I gassed her up, threw on a hopper full of paint and same thing. I can single fire it quickly (although almost feels like mechanical quick vs electric). However, same thing happens when I try to walk the trigger. I thought maybe it was me but I had my son who can rip on markers give it a shot. He couldn't walk it either. I tried several trigger adjustments and same result.

Any ideas? Oh and I have the marker set to factory fast (didn't play with any of the custom settings) and the eyes off. Oh and this is an E1 with v1.06.

Thanks!

[superman]

Does the board have the optical sensor for the trigger? If so back your stops off some. Those tend to need a bit more room than boards with microswitches.

[BornAgain]

Thanks Superman. I don't know honestly. I'll take a look tonight. Thank you!

[Trbo323]

Ok, *cracks knuckles* I've come across this end result with multiple causes before

1) make sure the eyes are off, if they are on it will default to a delay for the bolt which causes an extremely low ROF.

I don't think this is your problem based on your comments but wanted to put it in here just to be sure

2) finger misalignment.

The little finger on the back of the trigger that goes into the frame and breaks the beam can be off center. When that happens it registers some shots but not others. It typically works better when you are pulling the trigger slower because it has more time to register the trigger pull.

An easy (but not 100% conclusive) way to test this, lean the whole marker left, and pull the trigger to the left when pulling it. If this seems to cure your problem, typically it's an alignment issue as the triggers tend to be too far to the right if it's a problem, you can also try to the right just to make sure but a lot of times, one direction will be better and one will be worse.

There's a few ways to solve this, the easiest I've found is to wrap something like Teflon tape around the end of the finger just to give it a little more size

Based on your comments I'm thinking this one might be your issue.

3) light leak

Since it's an optical sensor if it gets too much background light that can interfere with it. I've come across this with both a gap in between the grips and the frame and also some acrylic grips that allow too much light through them

See if it works well in a dark room to test this out

Also I would double check that the trigger has enough room to travel since you can't adjust the activation point independent of the trigger travel if the activation point is set towards the rear of the trigger travel you might not be giving it enough room

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[BornAgain]

Superman and Trbo323
Thank you so much for the inputs and advice. I looked at the trigger alignment and tested that. It seemed to be aligned correctly. I also look at any 'light leak'. Everything seemed fine there. Lastly, as you both mentioned, I looked to ensure the trigger has enough room to travel. This being my first eblade, I assumed it was a switch. I just finished rebuilding my Dragon Timmy so I didn't think that it could be optical. That was the culprit. I wasn't giving it enough room. I adjusted the trigger and stop to activate at the beginning of the pull and stop just a hair after activation. I also played with the return magnet. Lastly, I toyed with different custom settings. Everything seemed to work fine (un-gassed...unfortunately ran out of air). However dry firing is an insane improvement and activates as fast as I can walk it now.

Thanks again! I appreciate you taking the time to help!

[superman]

Glad you got it sorted.

[Trbo323]

Glad you solved it, yeah these were released right as smart parts was trying to sue the whole sport for microswitches so my understanding is that it was made to be an optical sensor as that would get around the patent

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