Now that MCB has been wiped and years of autococker knowledge and discussion has vanished I want to do a public service to start to compile that knowledge back, in this one thread. As people chip in more bits of info I'll edit this over time to reflect all the poster's various thoughts and insights. to get the ball rolling, I'll ask some questions and users can start sharing knowledge.
I encourage people to ask questions even if they know the answers to encourage more comprehensive answers or different solutions to similar issues. The more info we can get into one simple thread the better for all AC users, new and old. Remember: Knowledge/tricks/shortcuts you take for granted that seem simple may be like arcane magic to others-new users especially.
First! To kick it off and answer the easiest/most plentiful questions is Ravi Chopra's highly regarded 1997 4-step autococker timing guide:
Unanswered Questions:
Q: What's the best way to tune a cocker for ultra-low pressure? Valve, spring weights, hammer weights, bolt, what's most effective?
Answered Questions (Feel free to chip in again)
Q: Can a guy use a hpa tank with an adjustable output regulator and remove the high-pressure regulator on the gun? Or is there a way to eliminate the HPR?
A: You can tune a cocker to run on tank pressure, IE not regulated at all. Back in the 90s, that's exactly how cockers were run, since inline regs weren't really much of a thing. I think modern inline regs are better than most adjustable tank regs, and you'd be dealing with old gear with deteriorating seals, but it'll work.
Q: When my trigger is pulled all the way back and I hold it there, is a hiss from the 3 way Normal?
A: No, Either the 3-way actuation is set too close to the rear of the trigger pull so that the 3-way hasn't fully closed before the trigger bottoms out, or the ram is leaking.
Q: Is there any issue with having the firing point set as far forward in the trigger pull as it can go, where there is no travel between an uncocked trigger and where the firing point is?
A: Yes: There can be issues with the trigger returning fully forward. slightly further back than all the way forward will result in more reliable cycling.
Q) Why do some short strokes lead to a loud hiss and leak until the cocking rod is pulled again and other short strokes don't?
A) there are multiple types of short strokes, The outcome of the short-stroke depends on what type of short-stroke it is.
Q) If your hoses pop off are your only options glue, less LPR pressure, trimming, new hoses, or are there other tricks you can employ to keep the hoses on?
A) Glue isn't a good solution, If reattaching the hose isn't fixing the problem immediately and preventing more blow-offs, try to lower LPR pressure or Replace the hoses. For guns with smaller barbs, tophats are also a solution.
I encourage people to ask questions even if they know the answers to encourage more comprehensive answers or different solutions to similar issues. The more info we can get into one simple thread the better for all AC users, new and old. Remember: Knowledge/tricks/shortcuts you take for granted that seem simple may be like arcane magic to others-new users especially.
First! To kick it off and answer the easiest/most plentiful questions is Ravi Chopra's highly regarded 1997 4-step autococker timing guide:
Unanswered Questions:
Q: What's the best way to tune a cocker for ultra-low pressure? Valve, spring weights, hammer weights, bolt, what's most effective?
Answered Questions (Feel free to chip in again)
Q: Can a guy use a hpa tank with an adjustable output regulator and remove the high-pressure regulator on the gun? Or is there a way to eliminate the HPR?
A: You can tune a cocker to run on tank pressure, IE not regulated at all. Back in the 90s, that's exactly how cockers were run, since inline regs weren't really much of a thing. I think modern inline regs are better than most adjustable tank regs, and you'd be dealing with old gear with deteriorating seals, but it'll work.
Q: When my trigger is pulled all the way back and I hold it there, is a hiss from the 3 way Normal?
A: No, Either the 3-way actuation is set too close to the rear of the trigger pull so that the 3-way hasn't fully closed before the trigger bottoms out, or the ram is leaking.
Q: Is there any issue with having the firing point set as far forward in the trigger pull as it can go, where there is no travel between an uncocked trigger and where the firing point is?
A: Yes: There can be issues with the trigger returning fully forward. slightly further back than all the way forward will result in more reliable cycling.
Q) Why do some short strokes lead to a loud hiss and leak until the cocking rod is pulled again and other short strokes don't?
A) there are multiple types of short strokes, The outcome of the short-stroke depends on what type of short-stroke it is.
Q) If your hoses pop off are your only options glue, less LPR pressure, trimming, new hoses, or are there other tricks you can employ to keep the hoses on?
A) Glue isn't a good solution, If reattaching the hose isn't fixing the problem immediately and preventing more blow-offs, try to lower LPR pressure or Replace the hoses. For guns with smaller barbs, tophats are also a solution.
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