Rebuilding WGP 2k vert feed

[DeadEwok]

Hey all! Reddit (autocockers101) pointed me here! I dug my old Autococker out of the shed after 15 or so years. When I was younger I never really took it apart but I am now in the process of rebuilding it and I have an O-ring rebuild kit on the way along with bumpers for the ram and valve seats for the regs. I've never seen this thing torn down like this (it's all in nice organized baggies) and I had just a few questions:

-For the HPR/LPR, what was the "stock" pressure on these? Any idea how many "turns in" on them I should go? I foolishly didn't count them on the way out and I don't have a tester.
-I ordered DOW33, is that a good grease/lube for the whole marker in general?
-Some of the springs throughout the marker were rusty/flaky. I WD-40'ed them and brass brushed them off and they look fine now but should I just replace? They still seem to work but /shrug
-The bolt has wear on it, particularly where I THINK it rubs on the detent (see picture). Is this a "problem?"
-Any "Cheapish" upgrades that you think are worth it? My wife is already NOT excited about me dumping any money in to this thing... much less starting up paintball again so I'd have to keep it under like... $50.00 at the most.
-Any advice in general?

Thanks all!

[DeadEwok]

Oh one more thing: I have applied duracoat to my firearms and I am thinking of a a different color scheme, anyone have experience duracoating over anodizing like this?

[OpusX]

Couple of thoughts:
--Please dont paint/coat/etc neat old factory annos. Believe ot or not they are desireable

--Dont use grease on cocker bits (sans the HPR piston) it is too viscus. Snag some air tool oil like SuperLube

--If your springs are rusty get an SLPS set from maggot

[Cdn_Cuda]

See if you can get it up and running before making any changes. However On/off ASAs make testing easier as you lose less air.

[DeadEwok]

Couple of thoughts:
--Please dont paint/coat/etc neat old factory annos. Believe ot or not they are desireable

--Dont use grease on cocker bits (sans the HPR piston) it is too viscus. Snag some air tool oil like SuperLube

--If your springs are rusty get an SLPS set from maggot

Thanks for the advice. I will leave it as is then I mean, I like the look but sometimes I just have an idea and go "oh that would look cool" and I put it on one of my actual firearms. I will get some lube instead

[DeadEwok]

Man I've been digging on this a bunch. I can't find like, a definitive o-ring list. I ordered this a few days ago thinking it would work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRBR27QB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have an Empire Res. cocker but any idea if this should be compatible? They don't list out all the o-rings in the kit so I've been trying to find a list of the Empire o-rings vs. WGP 2k.

[autococker04]

https://autocockerparts.com/cart.php...2-4e8f74fdd6ed These are the oring kits I usually use, I’d guess there’s a lot of compatibility between empire specs and 2k wgp, but they’re probably not perfect. Also you’ll probably want to at least flip your reg seats over to get a second life out of them if they’re not mushy. This site has everything.

[Daltech]

Watch allot of paintballtek on YouTube. He’s got videos on how to rebuild your reg. Also, learning the terminology for all of the components first, find a diagram, it’s a pain, but once you know it all it’s allot easier to diagnose and troubleshoot problems. On autocockers everything is connected to everything. That’s why timing is such a big deal. I managed to get a stock 2k2 similar to your and haven’t and won’t touch the timing. It shoots like a champ now. Sure I could lighten the pull, shorten the stroke and lower the pressure to sweet spot it but why? It doesn’t break paint, anyone can use it, and it works, which is rare for cockers.

I backed out the Hammer Lug just a 1/8 rotation and it was burping and slipping. The factory set it juuust right.

[Daltech]

[Alexndl]

Once you get it running the only cheap upgrade I would see is sending your barrel to BMC to get freak bored and ge some tight bore freak insert (684, 682 and 679).

Please dont paint it. Its already cool as is.

[OpusX]

+1 on a Freak bore. Paint is super tiny and fickle so old big bore barrel are just roll out machines.

[DeadEwok]

All right message received lol I will not paint it. Wait has paint size changed in the last 15 years? I mean I never had any roll out issues before?

[Alexndl]

Wait has paint size changed in the last 15 years?

Sorry to break the news but paint now is tiny and usually crap... finding good size and quality paint is a lot harder now.

I usually play with my 682 or 677 freak insert. Back in the day we where ok with stock 689 or 691 stock barrel, but its no longer true... sadly.

[DeadEwok]

All right my o-rings came a lot quicker than I thought. I'm putting everything back together on the front end block. I'm running into two weird things I can't get the four-way barbs to line up. The threads bottom out and they are facing down. I've tried re-catching the threads a few times and I can't seem to get it to clock correctly. The second problem or I guess question is when I put the low pressure regulator back on it seems to bottom out very quickly like there's a good six or seven threads left. I don't want to torque it down and strip anything but it just seems weird. Any advice is welcome and thanks again for all the advice so far.

[superman]

put a 010 oring on the base of the threads of the 3 way.

check out the threads in the front block and make sure the plug in the bottom of the front block is not sticking up to where it would hit the lpr threads when it is threaded in.

[DeadEwok]

The plug wasn't even in it so that really wasn't the problem. I don't want to risk stripping anything so I'm just going to hand tighten it with some blue thread locker and call it a day. It looks like there's threads cut into the channel like all the way through and I could screw it in deeper on top of the plug but that's where it starts to bind up is when it starts to enter that hole where the plug is so I can screw it in flush and that's about it. If that makes any sense?

The o-ring trick worked perfectly thank you.

[Jonnydread]

If you're trying to do this on the cheap and want to avoid rollouts I recommend using these. They allow for use of any barrel, any bore, without rollouts. I use them in all my cocker builds.