Rebuilding WGP 2k vert feed

[DeadEwok]

Oh those are genius. Yeah I might pick some up once I see if I get the ole beauty up and running. I still need to get a new air tank. My old fiber hpa is well over 15 years old. It has a nice regulator on it so I pulled it off but I need to chuck the tank itself

[Jonnydread]

If you have a place near you that performs hydrostatic testing you can usually find expired or nearly-expired bottles for cheap that still have plenty of post-hydro life left. I don't think I've paid more than $80 for any of my HPA tanks.

[latches109]

If your tank is older than 15 years, it cannot be hydrostatically tested anymore. A local dive shop will charge you $25-$35. There are some lifetime tanks

[DeadEwok]

Yeah mine can't even be retested at this point. I'll look at some of those used options. There's like one place that's about 40 miles away that tests them. I'll give em a call

[DeadEwok]

Okay I'm back and I need some more help lol. So I got everything rebuilt all the o-rings on etc. I was watching the paintball tech videos and I set the HPR to one screw in from flush and the LPR from about eight screws in from flush. When I air the gun up the hose from the LPR to the middle spot on the ram blows off almost like it's getting too much pressure. I've turned the HPR down and the LPR down still seems to happen but I can turn them way down and it doesn't happen but then the gun just farts and doesn't cock. Any advice on where to start or how to remedy this. Basically it just felt like I was chasing down three different things at once. I'm really not sure I guess where to start here. I mean I used to time my autococker if it fell out of time back in the day so I'm relatively familiar with that piece of it but I can't even get to that because I have this hose blowing off and I can't seem to get the air pressure right.

[OpusX]

LPR is too high. Pain to adjust but thats it.

[latches109]

Leave the brass fitting on the LPR attached to the marker. Unscrew the LPR from the rear brass fitting. Remove the Pressure adjustment screw, make sure your LPR seat is good, post picture. If it is bad you are venting HPR pressure to your pneumatics. If it looks good, double check it is seating correctly: screw the adjustment screw all the way in until the reg seat meets the LPR piston. reassemble and air up. the back block should be loose with no pressure. this will check your seat.

[DeadEwok]

You know the spring is bent and kind of rusty and the seat has kind of some markings in it where it looks like the spring has been digging into it. I ordered new ones and I have them but I thought I would just try to keep them as spares but I'm going to go ahead and replace them. I am unfortunately out of air because when a hose blows off who would have thought lol it uses lots of air I'll have to circle back and let you guys know if I can get it working once I replace the seat and spring

[latches109]

material looks okay - try flipping it. Replace is best. replace spring. Empire, wgp, HPR & LPR reg seats will all fit. inception should fit too but I have not checked.

Check and post picture of HPR seat also. include the new & old spring in that photo.

[DeadEwok]

Sorry one more follow-up question. So as I'm troubleshooting this I took off the brass top hats because the first time it happened it actually blew a hole in the hose I'm assuming because the top hats held the line on. Now I don't have the top hats on so it just blows the hose off instead of actually ruins it. If this is pressurized correctly I should be able to NOT have the top hats on correct?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Depends on the air hose. If using a new hose it should be fine without the top hats. Your LPR might be set too high still if it keeps blowing hoses.

[DeadEwok]

Okay great thank you it is brand new hose. When I get some more air I'm going to screw it all the way in and turn the pressure almost completely off and then just start backing it out slowly. Any idea if The inline regulator could be causing a problem? I rebuilt it completely with new springs and o-ring. I guess I'm just trying to also figure out where to start like if I start with the LPR and then go back to the HPR. My thought process is the LPR should take whatever the HPR is putting in and lower it so I should start with the LPR and get that all working and then worry about the HPR.

[DeadEwok]

LPR on left. Old spring far left, new seat. HPR on right. I threw the old spring out. New seat installed.

[latches109]

try the old spring in the lpr

[DeadEwok]

I don't know if I'm making this more complicated but I'm trying to understand the relationship between the HPR and LPR. Does the HPR setting effect the LPR? So like example if I have the HPR set to like 300 psi and the LPR is putting out a hundred if I change the HPR to let's say 250 does the LPR stay at 100? The reason I'm asking is just trying to understand if I have to adjust both of these at like the same time and try to find where they both meet at an ideal pressure or if I can just attack one at a time.

[autococker04]

If the LPR is at 100, it will stay at 100 regardless of HPR pressure (as long as HPR pressure doesn’t drop below 100)

I’d just worry about adjusting LPR, if it’s functioning correctly that should fix your hose blowing problem.

[superman]

I want to say they are dependent on each other.
I would set the lpr pressure to zero adjust the hpr until it peaks in velocity then adjust the lpr to function properly. especially if i didn't have a gauge.

[DeadEwok]

Thanks Autococker04 and superman. I think part of the problem is I don't have gauges to read the HPR. I've studied up on the HPR and how to "sweetspot" it so I can do that but the gun doesn't even cycle or function yet. It's 100% out of time, but I don't think I can time it until the pressure is correct... but can I even get the pressure correct if it's out of time? Seems like I am in this weird chicken or the egg scenario.

One more question: Can I remove the cocking rod while I mess with the LPR? My goal is to just get it to cycle the bolt/ram reliably and not have to be constantly dry firing or worry about the timing aspect.

[superman]

If you set the lpr pressure to zero you can manually cycle the back block/cocking rod to be able to shoot the marker basically as a pump. does not require any timing to be done.

[DeadEwok]

Ohhh that makes sense so that will let me attack the hpr first. Hmmm ok I might go that route. Now one more problem did crop up this morning, air is leaking directly out the front of the 3 way. Can this be due to low pressure of the lpr or not being time right? The orings are brand new and the ram rod wasn't bent or damaged when I rebuilt it.

[superman]

can be low pressure, not properly adjust timing rod or even bad oring on the ram piston.

[DeadEwok]

All right circling back. I got it working and I'm so pleased I can't even describe it. I found an old remote line I had with an on/off switch so I used that for the on off for the air because I don't have an on off on my ASA. I don't have a chronograph or a gauge but there was a very clear distinct line where the paintballs in the velocity clearly dropped after it was increasing. So I would increase the HPR slowly slowly slowly and then all of a sudden it would start dropping off and you could tell due to the trajectory of the balls and the distance. So I sort of fiddled around in that little sweet spot area and got it to where they were just consistently flying.

I then did pretty much the same thing with the LPR and just slowly backed it out until it started actually cocking. For anybody reading this thread for their own help: it seems that if the LPR does not have enough pressure the RAM will leak. I'm not 100% sure of this but I noticed once I got the pressure up high enough to make it cock the gun it stopped leaking. I think this just has to do with the fact there wasn't enough pressure to maybe push the ram where it needed to be in the neutral position.

I then just had to time it. I'm still sort of short stroking it feels like and I do have a hinge frame so that's supposed to prevent it so I might have it a little too tight between the fire and the cocking so I can fine tune it but I was slinging a steady stream of balls in my backyard and it was awesome. The pressure seems maybe low so I need to obviously now adjust it with the IVG ever so slightly but it sounds and feels just like it did when I used to play so I think I'm pretty dang close to spot on.

Major shout out to everyone who helped me. I really appreciate it. I also got my dad's old pro carbine working as well on another thread so I'm going to get me and my 10-year-old out there soon I think. Thanks everybody for all the help it means a lot. I know it seems stupid but paintball was a big part of my life with my dad and when he passed it just sort of fell off so I'm pretty excited to get back out there and feel like I'm playing with him again with his old pro-carbine.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Z_gBYb877JE&feature=share9

Added a video for you for the shooting payoff. You're going to have to just deal with my giggling like a school girl.

[OpusX]

Hellz yeah my dude! That is always a great feeling. She sounds timed up and ready to play. Enjoy