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    Autococker build

    Hey everybody. Getting back into paintball after a long hiatus and am building an autococker. Figured I’d post it here as some semi-irregular news and entertainment, but also for input.

    I do need parts and have been talking to a few forum members on lower tube and pneumatics. Looking at a palmers LT lower valve and belsales pneumatics.

    Thinking about some machining, most importantly a ball detent. I’m leaning towards a wire detent.

    Leaning towards a J4 PAT barrel system.

    Lastly looking at caustic for anodizing.

    I desperately need a grip frame. I’m currently split between a “period correct” benchmark, a meteor frame, and an inception 86 frame a guy has listed, but am open to suggestions.

    comment away!
    Attached Files

    #2
    I should add, and may get more from the WTB section, but interested in clamping feedbacks for a 2k threaded feedneck. I’ve seen the CP ones that are still available, but interested if anyone has something unique banging around that they may want to sell.

    Comment


      #3
      have you seen current used belsales prices, a bullet for 80, a lpr for 240, rams with qev 200. damn

      Comment


        #4
        Belsales parts are overpriced and not the best out there anymore.

        Inception's pneumatics are basically copies of all the best pneumatics but drastically improved in some way (besides the LPR, that design was perfect already thanks to AKA). And something I know you care about: Inception pneumatics are rebuildable using orings you can buy anywhere. The LPR does not use a propriety reg seat like 90% of LPRs out there, the GTR ram does not use c-rings like the Belsales ram, and the 3way does not use propriety orings like the Shocktech Bomb. The only propriety 'part' on the Inception pneumatics are the ram bumpers. They are compatible with Belsales and Empire ram bumpers. Just get a set or two and you'll be set for life...I've never even worn out a set of Evo/Empire bumpers...

        If you don't like Inceptions pneumatics, Shocktech also offers a quality set. They aren't my favorite and require proprietary oring for the 3way, but no one can say they don't perform.

        Whatever slide frame you choose, make sure it has a trigger stop of some sort. Trigger stops are sooo important when tuning your gun's pull. The fancy pneumatics you buy could be literally wasted if you don't have a trigger frame there to support the pneumatics abilities.

        Comment


        • superman

          superman

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I think trigger stops are overrated. everyone wants a shorter trigger pull, but that does not mean it is faster. Shorter pull typically means that the trigger has a hard break and stronger springing to ensure that the sear will catch the lug every time. I prefer a longer pull with a shortly timed cycle in the middle.

          Also you don't have to use the proprietary 3 way orings in the shocktech 3 way. you can use 003 orings, but the trigger may need a slightly stronger return spring.

        • minimag03

          minimag03

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I couldn't disagree more about the trigger stop superman​.  It's not just about ROF.  The main reason I originally wanted one was to help prevent short stroking (need all the help I can get lol).  Never had an issue with hammer slippage either but I exclusively use polish flat hammer lugs.

          I used duro70 003 orings in an OG Bomb and it the began wearing through the anodizing on the inside of the switch body after prolonged use.

        • $L!mBo

          $L!mBo

          commented
          Editing a comment
          using stops to take out the slop and vertical travel is most important. without that, 3way will leak and plate will bind.

        #5
        aka lprs are harder to find, there is a hpr on the line pressure and an lpr for operating pressure, they are known for the low pressure game. for aka hpr you want a sidewinder or a 2 liter+, aka lpr would be a smc3.

        Comment


        • Mini-Xmag
          Mini-Xmag commented
          Editing a comment
          Trying to find what the aka LPR looks like, or even one for sale.

          I’m familiar with the AKA HPR (sidewinder) and it’s at the top of my list.

        • minimag03

          minimag03

          commented
          Editing a comment
          linked it above. wouldnt recommend tho doing it unless you value the AKA literally just for it's brand recognition.

        #6
        easy find

        Comment


          #7
          Two Minimag guys politely discussing the finer nuances of an Autococker build. What a time to be alive.
          Got Bork?

          Olsson's WTB - Shut up and take my money!

          Comment


          • Mini-Xmag
            Mini-Xmag commented
            Editing a comment
            Hahaha! Touché!

          #8
          If you are going for a slider, the guts mean more then the frame itself. There are a lot of AC frames out there that were built, the latest AC craze has driven the prices up on some to unrealistic costs. Look at some of the other after market frames. I personally am a fan of the ANS Quickfire frames with their guts. Usually those can be found at more reasonable prices. I actually bought one a few months ago for modification to work with an old school Sterling I have (work not started yet )


          "When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt

          Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedback

          Comment


            #9
            If you can find a ccm low rise STO neck that would go great on that body. Otherwise get an inception of geo feedneck and get neck modded for a fit.

            Comment


              #10
              Simple. Shocktech it all. Lower tube kit 99.99, Bolt 49.99, Pneumatics kit 189.99, Gunfighter 299.99. and its all made in the USA with USA workers.

              Comment


                #11
                Now don't get me wrong. AKA and ID parts are good they both have pros and cons as do Shocktech. The ID GTR ram I'm not a fan of but I was a big fan of their original non-GTR ram, its the cheap china origns and bumpers you will need to replace. And the Bumpers are proprietary. The AKA/ID LPR witch is a balanced poppet reg is nice but don't get caught up in the "balanced parts as a feature the makes your "cocker" work better, it dose not. As for proprietary parts the ST 3way orings are 003 soft buna, and the LPR uses and aircraft Shrader valve rated at 4000 psi. Quite frankly the ST parts are the least proprietary out.

                Comment


                • minimag03

                  minimag03

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Any idea of the Duro for the Bomb orings? Would Duro50 work?

                  I've had problems getting parts and support from Shocktech/BBT in the past. It was around 07 (and again in like 2010 after the 09 SFL mind you lol). Over several attempts, no one could tell me the proper shrader valve replacement or Bomb oring info. It's kept me from suggesting their parts in the past. I hope that's no longer the case, the employees back then seemed bothered by my questions more than interested in helping.

                • superman

                  superman

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Myself and Docfire are both shocktech dealers and would be happy to help with getting replacement parts.
                  I am sure the 50 will work, as do the 70. Shocktech has not said which shrader they use, but they do have them in stock, you just have to email them and ask.

                • docfire
                  docfire commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Shocktech is under new ownership 2019/20. Danny Love and Mark Van Drunen the two owners. I'm am their warrantee site and tech supports. So have thing changed, yes. But both Danny and Mark have fulltime jobs and families as BW Jake says just hit them up or me Docfire paintball and we will get you up and running.

                #12
                Originally posted by Mini-Xmag View Post
                Hey everybody. Getting back into paintball after a long hiatus and am building an autococker. Figured I’d post it here as some semi-irregular news and entertainment, but also for input.

                I do need parts and have been talking to a few forum members on lower tube and pneumatics. Looking at a palmers LT lower valve and belsales pneumatics.
                Shocktech lower tube kit. 99.99, Shocktech Pneumatics

                Thinking about some machining, most importantly a ball detent. I’m leaning towards a wire detent.
                Angry Paintball for the milling

                Leaning towards a J4 PAT barrel system.
                Why? any 6" freak kit will work and if you want to go wild a old alu dye barrel freek bored by BMC

                Lastly looking at caustic for anodizing.
                Look at Ruckus Anodizing

                I desperately need a grip frame. I’m currently split between a “period correct” benchmark, a meteor frame, and an inception 86 frame a guy has listed, but am open to suggestions.
                Gunfighter with a Killlshot plate

                comment away!

                Comment


                  #13
                  “Made in the US” is the dumbest criteria ever. Means absolutely nothing.

                  Belsales stuff is really good, but also really expensive. I don’t think they’re particularly worth the current price, but they have more cache than any of the new stuff.

                  ID stuff is good, empire stuff is also good. Not discounting others experiences but I haven’t had any problem. They are made of a different grade of aluminum though, so they don’t ano quite right. Empire stuff is very similar, not quite as refined. Which means they’re a fair bit cheaper. While they are about the best performing pneumatics out there, the big thing with them is the quality of life improvements they made to them.

                  Shocktech is blatantly overrated. Their LPR is nothing special, ram is just an STO ram, and the bomb 3way is surpassed by more modern stuff.

                  The trigger frame is the most important part of the gun. As others have mentioned, the internals are make or break, though it’s not hard to get the right stuff. A good chrome plate and a roller sear will get there. The frame itself matters a lot less, but some have nicer features.

                  I like having trigger stops, and unless you go very short I disagree that a shorter trigger results in a harder break. 3-4mm is a good sweet spot. I also like finger grooves. Kapp groovy frames are good, the new DYE Ultralite frames are cool. My personal favorite is the Niche 86* frame, but they’re quite rare. Benchmark, old DYE, ANS, shocktech, etc, will all work just fine though.

                  The inception frames are cool. Just know they have a unique trigger feel. Actually as a mag shooter you’d probably prefer it. You can get a NOS trigger plate to get a more traditional feel, but normally they just feel different.

                  Id recommend against palmers anything. They’re not well built and performance is subpar. Stock WGP internals will do just as well, if not better. Actually the best performance I’ve ever used was eclipse. Same with belsales, they’re stupid expensive now.

                  Id suggest prioritizing the frame, then internals, then pneumatics. Pneumatics don’t matter much at all. Honestly you’re not likely to outshoot the stock brass pneumatics from a 2k WGP. Just get a quality set and call it a day.

                  Comment


                  • $L!mBo

                    $L!mBo

                    commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Shocktech shillers gunna shill

                  • docfire
                    docfire commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I sorry yo feel that way about USA made products. But its the USA and you have a choice so buy where you want. and to $L!mBo yep i support Shocktech and if have used them all.

                  #14
                  [QUOTE=Magmoormaster;n493520]“Made in the US” is the dumbest criteria ever. Means absolutely nothing.

                  that hurts.

                  Comment


                    #15
                    Only looking for a slider frame? I have some sliders and hinges.

                    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                    • Mini-Xmag
                      Mini-Xmag commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yes, only looking for a slider. Sorry, this is a double post. The first one appears to not linked to yours
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