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Black Barbs and Swivels for Pneumatics?

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    Black Barbs and Swivels for Pneumatics?

    Probably a long shot here, but is anyone aware of barbs including the swivel barbs that come in black? I am planning a build and really would like to black out all of the stainless (im planning to even blacken the trigger pins, pump/timing/cocking rods, and the beaver tail rod... becasue if I am spending the money to build I may as well build it perfect).

    I considered just either sending the parts off for black oxide or doing it my self with the Casewell kits but not sure if the swivel barb would handle the process as it looks like there is a captured seal that cannot be removed.

    #2
    Subscribed. I’d like to do this as well.

    Anyone ever powder coat the cocking rod? Considering that as well.

    Comment


      #3
      you could probably get some cerakoted, its much thinner than Powdercoat. I believe they have an Air-Dry type also.

      Comment


      • Sheepdog
        Sheepdog commented
        Editing a comment
        I have done this. Turns out really nice. You can coat the threads. Air dry takes 7 days to cure. Oven cure only takes 4 hours. I understand not everyone has an oven.

      #4
      Originally posted by Brandon View Post
      you could probably get some cerakoted, its much thinner than Powdercoat. I believe they have an Air-Dry type also.
      hmm yeah possibly, it still does have some stack up and I would be worried overspray could get into the small barbs. I also havent been impressed with cerakote on hard edges as I have some parts that it seemed to knock off really easily. the black oxide I figure is more attached to the metal as it is a stabilized oxidization where as the cerakote is a coating.

      but cerakote may be the only real option on the swivel barb if the seal would get damaged with the oxide process (and seeing as it uses hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acids I would be worried about that seal holding up).

      Comment


        #5
        Tippmann uses swivels for the cyclone/rt kit that are black. Some are steel some are brass. I'm not sure of the threads but I think they're off the shelf parts from Parker etc so there's probably a variety of sizes available.

        Comment


        • Ecapnation

          Ecapnation

          commented
          Editing a comment
          10-32

        #6
        Originally posted by Toestr View Post
        Tippmann uses swivels for the cyclone/rt kit that are black. Some are steel some are brass. I'm not sure of the threads but I think they're off the shelf parts from Parker etc so there's probably a variety of sizes available.
        Thanks I will try and dig a bit that way. But you also reminded me that these parts exist in brass and that’s a lot easier to blacken with less harsh chemicals so that may be an option as well if I can’t find black oxide steel ones.

        Comment


          #7
          Cerakote imo is probably the only option. I have done quite a few smaller detail parts with pretty awesome results. Don't forget to properly prep the surface so the coating sticks. I blast with garnet sand and that seems to work. Trigger control is very important. Overspray is very easy because cerakote is very thin. You can most certainly spray threads and assemble components. All of the black parts in the picture are creakote "armor black heat cured".

          Comment


          • SR_matt
            SR_matt commented
            Editing a comment
            Nice. Yeah I think I have just accepted that this is the way since some of the parts are nickel plated brass, some are steel. May just accept the actual barbs as being silver colored or I may get the raw brass ones and color those as that’s a much easier and safer process and I am not sure how easy you could shoot the barbs them selves without issue.

            Now trying to decide if I try and get a small airbrush to do these little parts or just pay someone.

          • Sheepdog
            Sheepdog commented
            Editing a comment
            You have got me thinking for sure. I may take a crack at doing some barbs, when I get some free time. It is not impossible. I can probably string them on some safety wire to blast and spray.

          • SR_matt
            SR_matt commented
            Editing a comment
            Yeah I figure with the right wire size I’m sure you can keep the over spray out. I guess really it probably doesn’t matter much though as it’s such a thin coating. At least as long as you don’t get runs haha.

            I may have to see if you’re up for spraying some parts once I get everything together on this build. Just laid mozak for the body before I actually posted my sale thread to find the build soooo I better catch up to get the cash flow back to at least 0 before I buy more parts haha.

          #8
          McMaster sells black 10-32 barbs. There are aluminum tho. I think they also have red and blue as well. No idea of the quality of finish or ano tho. I'll see if I can find a link.


          ​​​​​​Edit... See below, check dimensions make sure theyll for your application. Also id not use Loctite to seal these as theyll scratch or even snap when being removed. Instead buy a pack of the washers I posted to seal them..

          Comment


          • minimag03

            minimag03

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Black/blue/red

            Barbs, for Air and Water, 1/16" Tube ID x 10-32 Thread Male Pipe

            McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

          • minimag03

            minimag03

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Gaskets for Miniature Low-Pressure Barbed Brass Threaded Fitting,

            McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

          • SR_matt
            SR_matt commented
            Editing a comment
            O those are interesting, thanks!

            Those seals may be the move either way too as locking the barbs just feels kinda sketchy if I ever need to pull anything apart.
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