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Leak chasing

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    Leak chasing

    Back in the game after more than a decade and I've decided to dust off my E-Orracle.

    I've taken the whole thing apart, cleaned it up, replaced all o-rings and lubed her up, including the solenoid.

    The Tickler LPR and STO Ram were beyond saving, so bought an Inception Designs GTR and their LPR.

    I'm now getting a leak from the front part of the solenoid.

    Zeroed HPR and LPR, gave the HPR half a turn and a 1-2mm gap on the LPR. Still leaking.

    Looking into previous posts about this, people mentioned that sometimes it might happen with new LPR's if there's an issue with the o-Rings. Took apart the LPR, replaced O-rings and lubed it up. No dice.

    Replaced the Solenoid gasket, and it did seem to no longer leak, however that was when the tank was almost empty. It couldn't cycle properly.

    Refilled the tank, and the leak is back.

    Switched the Eblade to Classic mode, pulled the trigger and even though it's able to bring the ram back far enough to cock, there's still a leak from the front part of the solenoid.

    HALP!

    #2
    It's probably the ram.

    This is pretty common, the ram leaks and when air gets past the sail o ring it vents out through the noid/3 way. Players spend countless hours trying to "fix" the noid/3 way and it's not even the problem

    Pull the rear hose off of the ram, when aired up if there's air coming out of the back of the ram then there's your problem

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      #3
      Thank you for your response.

      Question so I can get a better understanding:

      When "at rest", air is supposed to be going in to the back of the ram, forcing the bolt to be in the closed position, right?

      If so, wouldn't it be ideal if I removed the front hose of the ram and see if there's any air going around the oring inside the ram and escaping from the front?

      Or is it more of a case of removing the RAM from the equation and seeing whether air vents from both the rear RAM hose and solenoid housing?

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        #4
        was there another oring in the ram package? If so put that on the ram piston. I know some of the inception rams needed a slightly larger oring. It's a metric size.
        BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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          #5
          From what I remember it was just the RAM in the package. No additional orings.

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            #6
            Oh yes you are correct, remove the front hose. It was 4am and I'm camping, my brain is a little toasty right now

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              #7
              No worries! Was wondering if I've been going around in circles because I was looking at the whole issue the wrong way. Wouldn't be the first time!

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                #8
                Originally posted by Trbo323 View Post
                Oh yes you are correct, remove the front hose. It was 4am and I'm camping, my brain is a little toasty right now

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                Removed front hose from the ram, and air is coming out of the front barb on the housing, and the front of the solenoid, like 50/50. No air coming out of the front barb of the ram.

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                  #9
                  If your LPR isn’t cranked to high or spiking it’s likely a ram issue. Got any Dow 55 I use it often to seal up leaky 3way and ram issues. Especially if the seals are good. The 55 will swell them a lil bit giving them a good seal.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View Post
                    If your LPR isn’t cranked to high or spiking it’s likely a ram issue. Got any Dow 55 I use it often to seal up leaky 3way and ram issues. Especially if the seals are good. The 55 will swell them a lil bit giving them a good seal.
                    Would air still be going to the front barb when the bolt is closed? I've coated the solenoid seal in a film of dow33.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Dumraden View Post

                      Would air still be going to the front barb when the bolt is closed? I've coated the solenoid seal in a film of dow33.
                      The front barb of what? The ram or the noid?

                      When at rest air should only be going from the rear barb of the solenoid into the rear of the ram. This keeps the bolt forward at rest.

                      If you remove the front hose completely and leave the rear one on, you shouldn't have any air coming out.

                      If air is coming out of the front of the ram, the ram sail o ring has failed

                      If air is coming out of the solenoid, either the spool pack has failed or your LPR pressure is too high (overpressure vent)

                      If it's coming out of both I would first check your LPR pressure as I would suspect an overpressure but the ram sail is still likely failed.

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                        #12
                        Front barb of the Ram.

                        I wasn't getting any air coming out from the front ram, but was getting air coming from the front barb of the noid. the LPR is an Inception Designs one, I've dialed it to about 1-1.5mm out as per the rebuild video from them.

                        I found a cheap variant of the noid (SYJ3140-5GZ-Q rather than the SYJ3140-VG), so I'm waiting for that to come in and I'll swap its internals with mine, as I'm now almost certain it's one of the rare occasions where it's the noid's fault rather than anything else.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Dumraden View Post
                          Front barb of the Ram.

                          I wasn't getting any air coming out from the front ram, but was getting air coming from the front barb of the noid. the LPR is an Inception Designs one, I've dialed it to about 1-1.5mm out as per the rebuild video from them.

                          I found a cheap variant of the noid (SYJ3140-5GZ-Q rather than the SYJ3140-VG), so I'm waiting for that to come in and I'll swap its internals with mine, as I'm now almost certain it's one of the rare occasions where it's the noid's fault rather than anything else.
                          Noids are pretty robust. I would wager that the majority of solenoid replacements don't actually need to happen. When I worked for dirty works there was a box of noids from field one that came over. All used, about 80% at least functioned on the bench. These were all noids that F1 had replaced because the owners suspected something was wrong with them.

                          Forget setting your LPR by some measurement, it's inaccurate anyway. Air it up, pull on the bolt pin. It should be hard to move back but not impossible. If your finger/hand stings a little when you let go of the pin that's too much pressure, turn the LPR down.

                          Better yet. Turn the LPR to 0, start increasing. You will likely have a small leak at some point before it really has enough pressure to cycle. Keep going up until it's cycling, once cycling you know you are in a good range. Then you can see if your leak is still there or not.

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                            #14
                            I'll give that a shot. The noid just showed up so I replaced the stem/piston thing with the 6 orings on mine, put some more dow33 as I think I might have been putting too little on the gasket and waiting on the loctite to cure on the lpr barb.

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                              #15
                              Right, so with the new solenoid valve stem (or whatever it's called), it's still leaking, however the ram is now able to re-cock the gun, regardless of where I set the LPR to. Even 1 thread in from the front oring (about 3 mm gap between LPR body and adjuster), it's got enough pressure to re-cock it. I'll take the LPR apart (again) and replace the orings.
                              Last edited by Dumraden; 08-28-2024, 12:11 PM.

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