My 1993 autococker is driving me nuts.

[tracythompsontampa]

I have this 1993 cocker with an ANS front end and old Sheridan internals. No timing hole and the lug has a set screw inside of that pin.

I finally got it to not leak. but now it cycles like the bolt is upside down on a 2k cocker.

The valve has holes on each side and the bolt is just a valley

I'm stumped. Can I put in more modern pre2k internals or am I just overlooking something simple?

Thansk

[Hellion360]

How much pressure you putting in?
Those internals are made for use with co2.

[tracythompsontampa]

How much pressure you putting in?
Those internals are made for use with co2.

I was playing with all types and nothing was doing the trick.

[Painthappy]

Copy and Paste:

Sweet spotting the regulator is not a quick process, but it is easy at least, and integral to an Autococker running at its most efficient. It is time consuming, and requires a good deal of air, and some paint. You also need a chronograph (those handheld radar chronographs are great for this)

The relationship between an Autococker's input pressure and velocity is in the shape of a bell curve. This means that as pressure goes up, so does velocity, but only to a point. There is a point where any more input pressure results in a lower velocity. This is because the excess pressure is causing the valve to shut prematurely, stifling velocity.

Start by turning your inline regulator all the way down to zero psi, also set your velocity adjuster at two turns in from all the way out. Now, increase your pressure slowly while shooting the marker over the chronograph. Adjust your pressure 25 psi at a time, and take five shots (give or take) over the chronograph to establish a velocity at that pressure. Continue this process until the velocity peaks, which is when any increase in pressure will result in a decrease of velocity. This point varies for every marker and is the most efficient pressure setting for your spring set. When the velocity drops, start lowering the pressure (5 psi at a time). The velocity should start to go up again. Gently nudge the pressure lower and lower (using those small increments) until any change, be it up or down, results in a lower velocity.

Now that the regulator is sweet spotted, you need to adjust the velocity adjuster to reach your desired velocity. With any luck, the regulator will sweet spot right around 290 fps. Try not to turn the velocity adjuster in more than half way, as it tends to put too much stress on the spring.

[Painthappy]

That's the official version. Really: Back out your velocity and screw it back in two turns. Back out your ANS reg adjuster (looks like it already is). Gas up the gun. Pull the trigger.... Hold the trigger in and dont let go. Screw in the ANS regulator until it pressurizes up the ram and pushes your back block out to cock the gun. Adjust the velocity as needed after that.

Should be all there is to it.

[tracythompsontampa]

That's the official version. Really: Back out your velocity and screw it back in two turns. Back out your ANS reg adjuster (looks like it already is). Gas up the gun. Pull the trigger.... Hold the trigger in and dont let go. Screw in the ANS regulator until it pressurizes up the ram and pushes your back block out to cock the gun. Adjust the velocity as needed after that.

Should be all there is to it.

I'm going to try this method now. I really appreciate it.

[$L!mBo]

i think your 3 way hoses are reversed.

[tracythompsontampa]

i think your 3 way hoses are reversed.

Every picture on Google shows them correct.

[$L!mBo]

not sure what you searched.
for slider frames (what you have) they should be like this

[$L!mBo]

lol was i right?

[tracythompsontampa]

lol was i right?

Well you might be right. I searched for ANS front ends and see different set ups.
tomorrow ill toy around with that. I thought I had it right

[$L!mBo]

the way you have them in your
pic is for hinge frames

[tracythompsontampa]

I appreciate the info.

[Painthappy]

Hoses... Of course. Hinge frame pushes the 3-way and the slider pulls the 3-way so your hoses do need to change depending on which frame. Once your hoses are good, follow the steps I posted and you'll be rocking that thing on the field.

[tracythompsontampa]

Hoses... Of course. Hinge frame pushes the 3-way and the slider pulls the 3-way so your hoses do need to change depending on which frame. Once your hoses are good, follow the steps I posted and you'll be rocking that thing on the field.

Even with the hoses like this ( like every other slider frame I saw on Google images) and playing with the velocity screw it still sounds like it's starving for air or like the bolt is upside down on a 2k

[Walker]

When you gas it up, if the following happens, your hoses are correct:

1. Ram sucks the back block forward, trigger not pressed.
2. Press trigger and ram pushes block to the rear and cocks the hammer.

If you are not getting any air down the barrel when you fire the gun, one (or more) of three things are probably wrong.

1. The valve is not aligned correctly and no (or limited) gas is getting to the bolt. If the valve has two ports, one should point directly upwards, and the other should be under the retaining set screw on the bottom of the body. Pull the set screw (not gassed up) and look and see if the bottom port in the valve is visible. You should be able to look in and see the valve pin.

2. The bolt is in wrong, however this shouldn't be the issue as with that type of bolt it shouldn't matter.

3. You are using the wrong length bolt. I.E. - A 2k bolt in a pre-2k setup, or a pre-2k bolt in a 2k setup. The back block shown in the 1st post needs a pre2k bolt.

The top bolt is a pre-2k ANS, the bottom is a 2k Shocktech: