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Extreme mq2 halfblock blowback! Requesting help

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    Extreme mq2 halfblock blowback! Requesting help

    I'm sure some of you have seen this post in the Facebook groups, but in coming here to hopefully reach eyes that aren't on Facebook. I'm really hoping that there IS something wrong that I can fix and that I am not going to have to run some extreme LPR pressure and CDEL. There are plenty of MQ2 halfblock builds I see that don't mention these issues. A super high LPR pressure and CDEL value doesn't really work anyway as a solution. Maxing both out will get me to velocity, but I still have insane blowback up the feedneck. Here's the troubleshooting I've done so far. This is the post copied from Facebook. Please read it all as it shows that I've crossed off issues like regs and seals (to some extent).

    ​​​​Long one here, but please read and help if possible. My bolt is moving back BIGLY when firing leading to low velocity and big blowback***!!!¡¡¡!!!

    I need help with a problem on a MQ2 halfblock build where I'm experiencing blowback with the bolt and back block moving back nearly the full stroke of the ram when firing even though the cocking noid is unplugged!!!! This is a freshly assembled and back from ano. The MQ2 and sci-fi were pulled from another working build I've been running for a season with very conservative timing for a soft shot. Some specs:


    MQ2
    Half block
    Evo ram with two PE QEVs
    AKA SCM III LPR
    AKA 2L+ low pressure spring
    Eclipse pops V2 ASA
    Inception trident halfblock bolt. I tried a resurrection bolt and another halfblock bolt that didn't have a front o-ring groove but had o-rings around the inlet port and had grooves for the detents. This 3rd bolt and the resurrection bolt were better than the trident by about 20fps, but still showed insane blowback and low velocity because of it.


    Timing:
    SON 3ms
    CDEL 5ms
    CON 60ms
    COFF 36ms


    When firing a ball the back block shoots back in reaction to shooting the ball, velocity is low around 230-250 FPS, and there is massive blowback that shoots the next ball out the feedneck. Jacking up the LPR really high increases the velocity and can get me to 300fps. This is because there is more pressure holding the ram forward during the firing process. I do not want the ram jacked up. That defeats the purpose of the MQ and I could always use a low LPR pressure before with much more reciprocating mass and the same regs. This wouldn't address the blowback issue either.


    It seems like air is blowing by the internal ram shaft o-ring. Upon removing the front plug and listening there was no air leak. When I forcibly pull the bolt and sled back the ram shaft maintains the seal. No air comes out the plug or front QEV exhaust. If any air exhausts out the front or rear QEV when I pull the sled back it's out the rear QEV as you'd expect. I put some grease over the rear QEV exhaust port and pulled the sled and bolt back to make sure the air exhausted out the rear QEV and pushed the grease out. It did. The front QEV will suck some air in and let it go back out when I pull the bolt assembly back. This is visible by watching the grease I shoved in it's exhaust hole.


    I've sprayed soap water all around the ram, LPR, ram, and QEV assemblies. There is a very, very small air leak around the o-ring between the rear QEV and ram body. It is very, very minimal and only visible with soap water. There are no other audible or visible air leaks. The u-cup seal doesn't bubble at all at rest or when I pull the bolt assembly back. The u-cup seems to be sealing tight against the ram shaft.


    The LPR seems to be functioning. I can lower it and the bolt pulls back easier. Raising the LPR will eventually cause the cocking noid to leak. This indicates it's changing the pressure. The AKA 2L HPR affects velocity with changes made, and it will cause the MQ2 to vent when raised to high. I also tried another known working 2L reg. It made no difference. I've tried 2 cocking noids but have more.


    I have unplugged the cocking noid from the board, manually loaded a ball in the chamber, and shot many times. You can see the bolt move back in this state when firing even though there is no power to the cocking noid. If I hold the bolt forward with my finger and have 2 balls in the feedneck the ball with shoot at velocity and as high as 330FPS depending on where I have the reg set. The balls in the neck will not blow out. This tells me that the bolt o-rings are sealing the chamber, but the force of shooting the ball is moving the bolt back, causing low velocity, and causing massive blow back.


    I'm at a loss. I've tried different cocking noids, ASAs, and HPRs. I pulled the rsme apart and installed a new shaft o-ring and bumpers. Could the manifold be imperfect and leaking internally between ports on top of the cocking noid manifold? Could there be blow by in the ram or out its cup seal ONLY when firing from the instant high impulse of the shot? This seems unlikely. Could something be wrong with the LPR that causes its pressure to drop during a shot when a lot of air goes out the valve? Please help.

    This video is ⅛ speed shooting a ball with the cooking noid unplugged and LPR higher than I'd like.

    #2
    Have you tried changing the u cup seal to an oring?
    have you swapped rams?
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    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by superman View Post
      Have you tried changing the u cup seal to an oring?
      have you swapped rams?
      No. From what I can tell the cup seal is holding air from pushing and pulling the ram by hand and from seeing the suction I get while pulling and plugging a QEV exhaust port. I read about some people changing the cup seal to a 007 o-ring and it not working as well the ID GTR ram uses it though, and it works well. I can try the swap. I have not tried another ram yet, but that's the 3rd item on the list of things to try. Here's what I I'm thinking to check next and in this order:

      1.) pull AKA SCM III guts from another copy I have and install in this one. If this remedies the issue I have a LPR problem and need to order a repair kit from Jared at AKA. If not, proceed to #2 below.

      2.) unplug cocking noid. Put LPR feed directly on rear QEV. If this remedies the issue there's something wrong with the cooking noid. Keep in mind I've tried 3 different cocking noids.

      3.) if the issue remains remove rear QEV and put LPR feed directly on rear ram barb. If issue remains there's something wrong with the ram.

      4.) replace cup seal with 007 o-ring from inception ram rebuild kit.

      5.) put gauge on 2nd port on AKA 2L. Make a tee with a 0-100psi gauge and install it between the LPR and cocking noid. Make sure there are no wild drops during a shot. If there are after having done some of the things listed above I'll need to report back here.

      6.) pull ID GTR off another build and try it. If works I guess I need to see what can be done to save the custom ano'ed Evo ram. I've already replaced its shaft seals and bumpers, and if I make it to this step replacing the cup seal with an o-ring didn't work.

      Comment


        #4
        If it is the ram seal, you can use a metric oring to get a better seal on the ram. I have done that in the past for ones that are a bit on the loose side. Pretty sure the ram seal is a 010 not a 007, but I would have to look. You should also be able to swap the inception ram piston into the evo ram body to see if that works.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
        BW Youtube
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        BW Email
        I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by superman View Post
          If it is the ram seal, you can use a metric oring to get a better seal on the ram. I have done that in the past for ones that are a bit on the loose side. Pretty sure the ram seal is a 010 not a 007, but I would have to look. You should also be able to swap the inception ram piston into the evo ram body to see if that works.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          I wondered about that piston head swap. That'd be beneficial since the ID piston head threads are in a blind thread and eliminate a potential internal leak point. I have an extra one of those. I'll do that regardless.

          The 007 o-ring I was talking about was for the ram shaft itself to replace the cup seal- not the one on the piston head. I'll double check. It'll be obvious once I take a look at what's in the ram rebuild kit I have.

          Comment


          • superman

            superman

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I was referring to swapping the piston head and shaft not unthreading the head from shaft.

          #6
          What body is it? And have you built a pressure tester to confirm what your LPR is at?

          Comment


          • superman

            superman

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Halfblocked Karni

          • Schroeder
            Schroeder commented
            Editing a comment
            Like Jake said, ½ block karni. Building a gauge assembly for the LPR today.

          #7
          Has anyone confirmed that the half blocked karni is actually machined to an acceptable standard? And that the bolt/sled is aligned properly?

          Comment


          • Schroeder
            Schroeder commented
            Editing a comment
            I used the stanchy guide. I believe it's a print that's been around for nearly 20 years in some form or another. Furthermore, the bolt inlet aligns with the body's valve hole.

          #8
          My first thought is that if the cocking pressure is set to a “leak point” those solenoid gaskets do have a shelf life and could be leaking well under usual pressure ranges

          Comment


            #9
            Originally posted by Frmrspec View Post
            My first thought is that if the cocking pressure is set to a “leak point” those solenoid gaskets do have a shelf life and could be leaking well under usual pressure ranges
            I'm going to build a pressure testing gauge today to put between the LPR and the cocking solenoid. Knowing this LPR though, I know it is outputting a high pressure because I have the end adjuster cap screwed in deep.

            Comment


              #10
              I would try #3 first. It's an easy one to eliminate and doesn't require taking apart the whole front block.

              When at rest, how hard is it to pull the bolt back by hand? I'm wondering if your noid is just venting early. So you really don't have enough LPR pressure but because it starts venting you think it's too much

              What barrel are you using?

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              Comment


                #11
                Also do you know your HPR pressure?

                Comment

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