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Barrel size for a closed bolt marker

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    Barrel size for a closed bolt marker

    So good news i got my pump action autococker. Its a 2002 prostock and i tested it and it works as expected. No leaks and everything looks good after shooting some paintballs. I know people recommend a barrel kit for close bolt guns so the ball doesnt roll out. Good news is i have a freak barrel from another paintball gun but i want to understand what bore size i should aim for. Ive seen some people say you want to go a chunk under towards .675 and i was wondering if you all had advice for autocockers and pump ones what kind of barrel bore size you normally use?

    Thanks,

    #2
    Congrats on the new setup! Generally speaking, paintballs won't ever be the same size from manufacturer to manufacturer or even from batch to batch. It's best to test each bag/case of paint out. Depending on the weather, you could find yourself using a couple different inserts throughout the day (also depends on how anal you are about it). Plenty of resources out there, but here's a quick vid:

    video, sharing, camera phone, video phone, free, upload


    Hope this helps!

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      #3
      CP .693 (or your favorite .689-ish or larger barrel) with RedLeaderSB detents. Done. Use two stacked and staggered for really small paint; I superglue them together.

      Made some for myself, ended up with a lot of extra. laser cut Mylar, approx .010” thick. Maybe similar to the freedummy detents? But made of a continuous piece, constant thickness. Wedged between AC body and barrel. I find they really shine when slightly over bored with bad paint. If you have oval paintballs, under boring

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        #4
        Originally posted by Sottyman View Post
        Congrats on the new setup! Generally speaking, paintballs won't ever be the same size from manufacturer to manufacturer or even from batch to batch. It's best to test each bag/case of paint out. Depending on the weather, you could find yourself using a couple different inserts throughout the day (also depends on how anal you are about it). Plenty of resources out there, but here's a quick vid:

        video, sharing, camera phone, video phone, free, upload


        Hope this helps!
        This is an overbore solution and would require him to buy parts.

        He already has everything he needs.

        Yeah there is no one size answer. Depends on the paint, the batch and even the temperature and humidity on the day of play. Basically find whichever insert the paint won't roll out of and then either stick with that or go one step down from there.

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          #5
          Laser-cut / 3d-printed detents are another option to stop rollouts
          Attached Files

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            #6
            As always I recommend “tape”. Black electrical tape, 1-3 pieces depending on how you want to do it. It’s free. You don’t need to change it unless it comes out which it never does if you do it right. You can use it on any barrel. If you go this method you can also act like you know it all, which you will.

            For max efficiency and perhaps accuracy you can use a freak system. It will be a thing to mess with forever though. There is no one size to pick, if that made sense they wouldn’t make freaks at all they’d just make every barrel in that size. Think about it…

            Both methods work for different people. If you like measuring your paint all day and swapping tubes back and forth to hopefully squeeze two more shops out of a 12g or you’re trying to win a target shooting contest, go for the freaks. If you want to use this time to do a jay and watch ducks land on the water go with the tape.

            Wedgits are also a solution. They work exactly as well as tape but if 3D printed or laser cut require *computers* which as we know are the future so if you need to feel young waste a bunch of time on that. If you don’t have time to bleed go with the tape.
            Last edited by SignOfZeta; Yesterday, 02:06 PM.

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              #7
              Ive heard people say with pump you want to "under bore" it. Does that mean you purposely want the ball to be a bit snug? Using an insert, tape, or something 3d printed is the idea for the ball to not roll out but require a bit of force?

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              • Socalpumpballer
                Socalpumpballer commented
                Editing a comment
                There shoudnt be any noticeable difference in the pump stroke. If you’re so underbored that you require force to load the ball then you’ve gone way too small on the bore size. Once upon a time when paintballs were actually round you could significantly underbore now a days you want the bare minimum to prevent roll outs as not to impart any spin on the ball. That’s why 3D printed finger detents are a great option

              #8
              Originally posted by timetopat View Post
              Ive heard people say with pump you want to "under bore" it. Does that mean you purposely want the ball to be a bit snug? Using an insert, tape, or something 3d printed is the idea for the ball to not roll out but require a bit of force?
              Either that, or keep your barrel pointed to the sky. Otherwise, the only thing your balls will hit, will be the ground at your feet. .

              Comment


                #9


                Originally posted by timetopat View Post
                Ive heard people say with pump you want to "under bore" it. Does that mean you purposely want the ball to be a bit snug? Using an insert, tape, or something 3d printed is the idea for the ball to not roll out but require a bit of force?
                Tape/fingers are just a way to hold the ball in place, they are not an underbore

                Here's the 3 methods as was explained to me back in the day, I'm sure others have different opinions. Trust me when I say, barrel topics have been debated and "tested" to death and there is no clear "best" method

                Overbore: paint either rolls out or is only very slightly hung up in the barrel/insert requiring very little effort to get it rolling again. Looking down the barrel with paint in it you are able to see daylight pass by the paint easily

                Up sides: easy set up. Fairly consistent since air is passing by each paintball more or less equally. Allows for swelling or shrinking of paint through the day with little effect on performance

                Down sides: inefficient, possibly less accurate (hard to prove)

                "Perfect fit": put a ball in the barrel/insert, then using your mouth blow on the end. You should be able to blow the paint out but it won't roll out on it's own. Looking down the barrel you can usually see just a little light getting past the paintball in a few spots.

                Up sides: more efficient as less air gets around each paintball. More accurate (again, hard to prove)

                Down sides: less consistent. Since each individual paintball has very slightly more or less friction on it this method can affect consistency.

                Underbore: use the perfect fit method above and go one (possibly 2) sizes down. If you can blow the paint out using your mouth it will be very difficult. A lot of times a barrel swab is needed to get the paint out. Unless the paint is out of round you will likely not see any light around the paintball if you look down the barrel

                Up sides: if you are using good paint it's typically fairly consistent since each paintball is being squeezed regardless of small differences ball to ball. Accuracy (again, hard to prove) can be the most efficient since almost no air is escaping around the paint.


                Down sides: An extreme underbore can be less efficient due to the increased friction. Can have a few more barrel breaks in general and many more with an extreme underbore. Changes in the paint through the day have a much greater affect on this method.

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