Karnivor cocking issue

[oats944]

Hey guys, picked up a Karnivor recently. All stock with an E2 board. I know my way around my 99 mech cocker well but I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m a little out of my element with this Karni. Nothing is leaking, but the hammer lug adjustment is causing me issues.

I feel like it’s close to where it should be, but I don’t think it should be this hard which makes me think something else isn’t working right.

I’m turning the Allen key 1/8 turn at a time. It’ll either:

- cock but not fire.
- cock and fire 2 out of 10 times.
- fire consistently but fires when the bolt/back block is moving forward, not firing then recocking like it should.

Hpr is at about 300psi. Clapper/pancake clicks/moves when the trigger is pulled. Board is on the factory setting. Fresh 9v. Bolt is in the correct way.

Any idears? I’m thinking it has something to do with the clapper not hitting the sear hard enough, so when it’s at the right depth it doesn’t trip the sear. Then when the lug is too shallow it’s running over the sear causing it to fire when the back block/bolt/hammer is moving forward and hitting the valve. But after hours of reading and messing with it I have a little analysis paralysis.

Thank you in advance for any wisdom you might be able to provide!

[Trbo323]

I don't have time to reply right now but I'll have some ideas for you later

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[Trbo323]

Oh, are you using factory fast? And did you turn the eye off for your testing? Fresh 9v?

Figured I'd cover the stupid bases first

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[Ryan92]

300psi is high for a Karnivor. I had a recocking issue with mine a while back where I thought it was the clapper solenoid but ended up being the capacitor on the board. Does you battery level read weird on the e2 screen? That could be an indicator of a bad capacitor.

[oats944]

Thank you guys. I’ll try turning down the hpr and see what that does. The screen looks fine as far as I can tell. Battery indicator is full/solid with a new battery and showed half empty with a used battery hooked up. I have been testing with a new Duracell battery and the eyes turned off. I tried the factory fast, medium, and slow settings along with classic mode with the same results.

[Sdawg]

The HPR should not affect this problem. The pressure from the factory was 280psi, I believe.

I would try a different board. I have had this problem with a sci-fi board, and it was the capacitor failing.

[latches109]

with the frame off, can you visibly see the clapper solenoid moving the sear properly? lot of the pressure issues would cause re-cocking problems, so I would first check lower tube function and electronics. Do these work? clapper, battery, capacitor, board. also check the does the hammer move freely.

[Trbo323]

Yeah the HPR is not the problem. The clapper/sear should still release the hammer regardless of what pressure is on the valve.

Do you have the noids plugged in correct? If I remember right, cocking noid is on the top of the board (can someone confirm?) this could easily be your problem, I had a customer years back who was having issues with his cocker along the same lines. That was all it was.



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[oats944]

Thanks again guys. I reduced the hpr pressure to the 260-280 range but no change in performance. Double checked the wires/plugs and they’re in the right spot. I took out the hammer and cleaned it and the lower tube up and lubed accordingly.

I believe the clapper or capacitor is the issue. Pulled off the trigger frame again and the sear is barely moving up and down when I pull the trigger. The clapper is moving up and down but not with a lot of force. This is my first blade but I would assume you’d see the sear move pretty far like you’d see on a mech hinge/slide frame. While put together and cocked if I push up on the clapper it does fire.

I’m guessing replacing the capacitor would be the next step, then the clapper if the capacitor doesn’t do it?

[Sdawg]

I would try a new clapper first because replacing a capacitor will be harder.

[oats944]

Thank you, I have some soldering experience with guitars so I hope that that and YouTube will get me through. I ordered a capacitor and a clapper so I’ll try whichever gets here first I guess.

[Trbo323]

Typically the capacitors go before the clappers.

Also, the action of the clapper is so fast that you may not be able to see it all that well. I think your solution of pushing up on the clapper was a good idea though. If you have ever dealt with spyder e frames they should have around the same force.

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[oats944]

Thank you for saying that, I do have experience with the Spyder frames. Comparing the two I’d say the Karni is like clapping with one hand and a Spyder frame is like clapping with 2, or something like that lol.

[latches109]

I would assume cap, they are easy to replace. If you have a MESR-100 Capacitor Tester - You can test in-circuit first, though not always accurate. Removing it from the circuit is the best way to test it. Lot of you tube videos on that I am sure. I have had a clapper fail so don’t rule it out.

https://www.pbnation.com/images/manuals/71.pdf

[oats944]

Hey guys, got ‘er working. Capacitor came in the mail today and I soldered it on. Quarter turn of the hammer lug and she’s running great now. Shooting 280fps at around 260psi. Thank you to everyone that helped out!